I'd like some input on the pro's and cons of each product. I am trying to get a jump on my woodwork this year. I am a newbie to wood work since I have only had my boat 1 1/2 years. What are the characteristics of each product durability, ease of application, etc. Thanks, Jonathan Costello Heeling Powers
Cetol or Varnish?
- Thread starter Jonathan Costello
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Varnish
I have never used Cetol. I have used varnish with good results. I used Epifanes varnish. You will probably not find it at the hardware store but at the marine store. It has far more solids and UV protectant than typical spar varnish. I varnished the teak about a year ago. It has held up very well and looks great. I have also used "Bristol Finish" which is a two part marine finish. Although it was easy to apply, I was not pleased with the finish and it deteriorated significantly in less than one year. Our sun is very severe here in Florida so products don't generally hold up well. But I found the Epifanes varnish superior to the Bristol finish. When it comes time to redo I will be using Epifanes.
I have never used Cetol. I have used varnish with good results. I used Epifanes varnish. You will probably not find it at the hardware store but at the marine store. It has far more solids and UV protectant than typical spar varnish. I varnished the teak about a year ago. It has held up very well and looks great. I have also used "Bristol Finish" which is a two part marine finish. Although it was easy to apply, I was not pleased with the finish and it deteriorated significantly in less than one year. Our sun is very severe here in Florida so products don't generally hold up well. But I found the Epifanes varnish superior to the Bristol finish. When it comes time to redo I will be using Epifanes.
Cetal
I've used it. It got very high marks in tests Practicle Sailor did. For wood on the outside of your boat I do not think you will find anything better. Does not act like varnish as far as lifting or breaking down. Do not use the supper clear stuff but the regular cetal thats been around for years. At least thats what Practicle Sailor says. After using it I would agree.
I've used it. It got very high marks in tests Practicle Sailor did. For wood on the outside of your boat I do not think you will find anything better. Does not act like varnish as far as lifting or breaking down. Do not use the supper clear stuff but the regular cetal thats been around for years. At least thats what Practicle Sailor says. After using it I would agree.
I used Cetol for more than 10 years...
The key to a successful job (like many other things) is prep...and prepping for the first application of Cetol needs to be everything you'd do to varnish--clean the wood and sand it as smooth as a baby's cheek. As is also true of varnish, the wood must be completely dry before applying Cetol...even high humidity can be a problem. Three coats are all you need...each lightly "sanded" with extra-fine bronze wool--to remove any bubbles or bumps--before applying the next coat. I'm usually a stickler for following mfr's instructions...Cetol is an exception. Their instructions call for only wiping down with mineral oil before applying a new coat next year...and IMO, that's what results in a buildup and unappealing increasing opaqueness. I always "sanded" with fine bronze wool before applying a renewal coat...'cuz that removes any scratches, scuffs, ground-in dirt and UV-degraded Cetol. THEN I wiped it down with mineral spirits to remove any dust etc. It's a VERY easy job compared to the cleaning and sanding you have to do the first time or to re-varnish. Then I applied TWO new coats instead of just the one called for in the directions. My boats kept their "first year" look for 10 years. Just my $.02 worth...
The key to a successful job (like many other things) is prep...and prepping for the first application of Cetol needs to be everything you'd do to varnish--clean the wood and sand it as smooth as a baby's cheek. As is also true of varnish, the wood must be completely dry before applying Cetol...even high humidity can be a problem. Three coats are all you need...each lightly "sanded" with extra-fine bronze wool--to remove any bubbles or bumps--before applying the next coat. I'm usually a stickler for following mfr's instructions...Cetol is an exception. Their instructions call for only wiping down with mineral oil before applying a new coat next year...and IMO, that's what results in a buildup and unappealing increasing opaqueness. I always "sanded" with fine bronze wool before applying a renewal coat...'cuz that removes any scratches, scuffs, ground-in dirt and UV-degraded Cetol. THEN I wiped it down with mineral spirits to remove any dust etc. It's a VERY easy job compared to the cleaning and sanding you have to do the first time or to re-varnish. Then I applied TWO new coats instead of just the one called for in the directions. My boats kept their "first year" look for 10 years. Just my $.02 worth...
Question for Peggy
What should I use to clean the wood for the first time to get it really clean and get all the dirt and crud out of the pores of the wood? I have some original wood that is weathered and need to know how to clean it. Thanks for your in-depth analysis Jonathan Costello
What should I use to clean the wood for the first time to get it really clean and get all the dirt and crud out of the pores of the wood? I have some original wood that is weathered and need to know how to clean it. Thanks for your in-depth analysis Jonathan Costello
My research
I know very little about finishing wood, but have read extensive online debates and testimonies about Cetol vs. varnish. It appears that Cetol holds up better and is a little easier. The downside is that some don't care for the orange color of Cetol. Cetol has served me well on my h26. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
I know very little about finishing wood, but have read extensive online debates and testimonies about Cetol vs. varnish. It appears that Cetol holds up better and is a little easier. The downside is that some don't care for the orange color of Cetol. Cetol has served me well on my h26. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
Cetol discussion
Here is a discussion about Cetol. http://www.everythingboats.com/catboat/forum/bbs.pl?read=4085 ...RickM...
Here is a discussion about Cetol. http://www.everythingboats.com/catboat/forum/bbs.pl?read=4085 ...RickM...
cetol1 w/ cetol tgl overcoat
a sailboat in the rocky mtns is not an everyday thing so when i found someone that sold cetol, and not knowing any difference, he sold me cetol 1 in a teak tint with cetol tgl gloss as an overcoat. (i have since learned that there is a marine and a marine lite cetol). anyway, the cetol 1 is primarily used for log cabins around here but worked beautiful on my teak. i have been very satisfied with the high gloss of the tgl overcoat and it has weathered well. what i learned tho on application is that it dries very slow and likes to run so be careful. the up side to this solw drying is that you can knock-off any runs with a brush for up to several hours after application.
a sailboat in the rocky mtns is not an everyday thing so when i found someone that sold cetol, and not knowing any difference, he sold me cetol 1 in a teak tint with cetol tgl gloss as an overcoat. (i have since learned that there is a marine and a marine lite cetol). anyway, the cetol 1 is primarily used for log cabins around here but worked beautiful on my teak. i have been very satisfied with the high gloss of the tgl overcoat and it has weathered well. what i learned tho on application is that it dries very slow and likes to run so be careful. the up side to this solw drying is that you can knock-off any runs with a brush for up to several hours after application.
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