Cetol Light has been suggested as an alternative to their other mud brown Cetol. How much differece is there between the two. I prefer the teak to have a honey yellow shade and could use some advise on this. Thanks
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Cetol Light
I have used Cetol Light on our last two boats and prefer it to the regular cetol. It is less brown and offers a much lighter color. You can still appreciate the grain of the wood that you are covering. I think it lasts about the same to. On our Catalina, it lasted 3 years before it looked like it needed another coat. Mike
I have used Cetol Light on our last two boats and prefer it to the regular cetol. It is less brown and offers a much lighter color. You can still appreciate the grain of the wood that you are covering. I think it lasts about the same to. On our Catalina, it lasted 3 years before it looked like it needed another coat. Mike
used the Gloss last week
Funny you should ask about this. I've always used Cetol on my wood and it has been a great product for this climate. I just repaired the wood work on my remaining boat after hurricane Charley sand blasted the crap out of all my wood work. I bought the Gloss and after two coats it looks great! I've not used the gloss before but I will certainly use it more. The finished product has a better color than the original with a lot of, go figure, gloss... It isn't as yellow as the other's, it seems to have more of a natural color. How long it lasts remains to be seen but if it is anything like their other products I'll be pleased.
Funny you should ask about this. I've always used Cetol on my wood and it has been a great product for this climate. I just repaired the wood work on my remaining boat after hurricane Charley sand blasted the crap out of all my wood work. I bought the Gloss and after two coats it looks great! I've not used the gloss before but I will certainly use it more. The finished product has a better color than the original with a lot of, go figure, gloss... It isn't as yellow as the other's, it seems to have more of a natural color. How long it lasts remains to be seen but if it is anything like their other products I'll be pleased.
Went from Light to Regular
this year. Texas sun just eats it up. Have to sand and reapply each winter. I hate teak!
this year. Texas sun just eats it up. Have to sand and reapply each winter. I hate teak!
Have you tried . . .
a product called Perma Teak Gold? The previous owner of my boat swears by it and said that it lasts 2-3 years without any touch-ups. He got it from a company called "The Flood Company" out of Hudson, OH.
a product called Perma Teak Gold? The previous owner of my boat swears by it and said that it lasts 2-3 years without any touch-ups. He got it from a company called "The Flood Company" out of Hudson, OH.
Cetol Light
Paul, Yes it is lighter, less orangy and more natural looking, but it isn't a clear covering so if you want the look of the original wood its not the product to use. I know that the Rigging Shoppe in Scarborough has sample colour chips that will show the difference. If their not close to you give your supplier a call to see if they have chips. Kevin
Paul, Yes it is lighter, less orangy and more natural looking, but it isn't a clear covering so if you want the look of the original wood its not the product to use. I know that the Rigging Shoppe in Scarborough has sample colour chips that will show the difference. If their not close to you give your supplier a call to see if they have chips. Kevin
Better than varnish
Paul - I have a friend who applied 5 coats of Cetol Light to a new mast: the boat spent 2 seasons in Fla. & Bahamas before returning north and now, after 4 yrs total the mast looks pretty good. Touch up & recoating can be done with a minimum of trouble. Kevin B is right in that there is a slight yellowish caste to it, but I've used it on some teak and feel that 95% of the visual quality of the wood is still apparent and recoating is very straightforward.
Paul - I have a friend who applied 5 coats of Cetol Light to a new mast: the boat spent 2 seasons in Fla. & Bahamas before returning north and now, after 4 yrs total the mast looks pretty good. Touch up & recoating can be done with a minimum of trouble. Kevin B is right in that there is a slight yellowish caste to it, but I've used it on some teak and feel that 95% of the visual quality of the wood is still apparent and recoating is very straightforward.
Honey Teak
If you value your time and the beauty of varnished teak. Consider one of the 'modern' catalized two part + two part urethane/acrylics. I switched to a product called "honey teak' (www.signature finish.com) about six years ago for a large 'teaky'. This looks like an amber oilbased varnish, can be fully coated in one or two days, ... maintenance only requires scuffing with a scotchbrite pad / plus a quick clear coat yearly. With only minor repairs I'm now going into my 6th season. On the West coast, most use a product called :"Smith & Co. 5 yr. Clear". Put on three base coats of Honey teak and three of clear and then you only need to recoat every two years. I power-buff the HT in alternate years. You can also hand-rub these with rotten stone and water to develop the irridescent patina of the wood underneath and to produce a gloss that you only see on mega-yachts. (I use an airbrush on the final coat -- but Im a fanatic). Both of these last longer than Bristol, Armada, Cetol, oil/urethane varnish combinations plus overcoating with 2part urethane clear,etc. They do not LIFT and are easily repairable. You apply them with a soft artists brush. They are expensive; but, when you amorrtize your time and cost of constant on/off with all the others ... such initial cost sure makes sense in the long run.
If you value your time and the beauty of varnished teak. Consider one of the 'modern' catalized two part + two part urethane/acrylics. I switched to a product called "honey teak' (www.signature finish.com) about six years ago for a large 'teaky'. This looks like an amber oilbased varnish, can be fully coated in one or two days, ... maintenance only requires scuffing with a scotchbrite pad / plus a quick clear coat yearly. With only minor repairs I'm now going into my 6th season. On the West coast, most use a product called :"Smith & Co. 5 yr. Clear". Put on three base coats of Honey teak and three of clear and then you only need to recoat every two years. I power-buff the HT in alternate years. You can also hand-rub these with rotten stone and water to develop the irridescent patina of the wood underneath and to produce a gloss that you only see on mega-yachts. (I use an airbrush on the final coat -- but Im a fanatic). Both of these last longer than Bristol, Armada, Cetol, oil/urethane varnish combinations plus overcoating with 2part urethane clear,etc. They do not LIFT and are easily repairable. You apply them with a soft artists brush. They are expensive; but, when you amorrtize your time and cost of constant on/off with all the others ... such initial cost sure makes sense in the long run.
Caulk too?
When I use Honey Teak on a toerail, would I have to seal the base with caulk where it meets the deck? There are also alloy chocks and was wondering if I have to seal these areas too? If water gets between the chock and the teak will the wood go grey? Thanks
When I use Honey Teak on a toerail, would I have to seal the base with caulk where it meets the deck? There are also alloy chocks and was wondering if I have to seal these areas too? If water gets between the chock and the teak will the wood go grey? Thanks
Cetol light
I have used the West Marine brand of "Cetol" and really like it. It seems much clearer and has held up very well. I'll trade a little "mudiness" for all the sanding invloved in other applications any day of the week.
I have used the West Marine brand of "Cetol" and really like it. It seems much clearer and has held up very well. I'll trade a little "mudiness" for all the sanding invloved in other applications any day of the week.
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