Cetol and teak refinishing

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Ken Koons

I'm a relatively new boat owner and it's time to refinish the Teak on my Stern Rail seats, drink holders and Cockpit Slide handle. I just went to the Sailboat store and bought a $33 quart of Cetol. The teak on the boat is pretty grayed out. What is the method of application? Thanks for the help. My neighbor in the next drydock slot just bought a new 260 so I need to SHINE up my boat.
 
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Ray Bowles

Ken, I used Cetol on my sternrail seats on a H26

last year and was pleased with the results. I sanded down to good wood before applying the Cetol. Some owners remove the strips and apply, I left them mounted. It will yellow the plastic but the result was very nice anyhow. If you remove the seatpad assembly the screws might pull the threads with them. If they do just wrap the screw with about 4 loops of teflon tape and insert. Instant thread. I will lightly sand and recoat just before launch. Ray S/V Speedy
 
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Bob Howie

Refinishing Teak

I'm a pragmatist, not a purist, so some of what I say here may sound like heresy to others, but here goes. Teak will turn gray due to the natural oil and dirt that accumulates. I prefer Teka 2-part teak cleaner. Instructions are simple; just read and follow and you get very nice results. Teak, by the way, is naturally a honey-colored wood. After you clean the teak, use Acetone to get all the surface junk off and then use the Cetol as directed. I think you are going to really like the result. Don't be afraid to screw up. You can use the Teka cleaner again and start over if you don't like it. You really won't hurt the wood. If the grain has come up quite a bit, I would recommend you first clean the teak thoroughly, let it dry and then lightly sand it. You want to remove as little material as possible and then let the Cetol fill in the rest. You will be happier that way, I think. You will fool around a bit with your brightwork until you get it where you want it. Experience is a good teacher and the beauty about wood is that you can strip it down and start over with very little adverse affect. Good luck.
 
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Jim Maroldo

Go with the Cetol...

I have to agree with Bob on this. My teak grabrails were quite weathered and the grain had really been raised after years of cleaning and weathering. As an experiment before buying new wood, we cleaned the parts (off the boat) with the standard teak cleaner/brightner. After 24 hours, we sanded the pieces smooth (took about 1/8" off the thickness!), wiped 'em down with acetone, and gave them 3 coats of the standard Cetol. What a difference! I guess some people like to clean & re-oil their teak. I'd rather go sailing!
 
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jim oursler

cetol is number one

that about sums it up.. Teka A and B is good cleaner, followed by sanding and Cetol.. Then, just touch up annualy.. varnish looks better, but has almost zero life in the sun.. That is my take from Lake Texoma, where we sail year around.
 
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Ken Koons

cetol follow up

I just wanted to post a follow up to my Cetol question from earlier in the week. To update everyone, I pulled off the cup holders and stern rail seats from my 98 Hunter 240 to refinish (still need to pull off the hatch slide handle) I sanded, cleaned with Acetone and put on three coats of Cetol with a cheap foam brush. I left the teak strips attached to the plastic seat backing when I redid the stern rail seats. Leaving the strips attached made it very difficult to get to the sides of the teak with the brush. When I recoat in the fall I definitely plan to completely remove the teak from the seats.
 
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