My previous boat was a H240 and I saved the attached photos of the centerboard and bracket. Not sure where they came from, but thanks to the original poster. Hope this helps. @Paule R @Crazy Dave Condon
Centerboard/Swing Keel Removal - Hunter 240
- Thread starter Maxcromic
- Start date
Hi to both of you, I spent the day trying to re-install the CB, the sailboat is on dry land and when I tested it to lift the CB, there is so much tension that the actual cheek block that is sitting on a stainless steel base bent, therefore the inside wheel jammed. Also so hard to up-haul (lift CB), wondering if it is because i am on dry land, will it be easier when the sailboat will be in the water? I am trying to find out where the tension is coming from and if it is normal, I am concerned that I am doing something wrong, I would appreciate your input.
No reply yet, try @caverun @Crazy Dave Condon support needed.
I removed my centre board from our 240. I purchased a longer threaded rod the same thread size as the bolt I took out of the top of the CB and a large nut. When I put it back in, I put the rod down the hole inside the vessel and threaded the longer rod into the top of the CB’s carrier. With someone underneath helping guide I pulled the rod up and tightened the nut by hand. Once up my helper blocked it underneath and I was able to pull the threaded rod out and thread the bolt back in. It actually went very smooth.
Good luck
I removed my centre board from our 240. I purchased a longer threaded rod the same thread size as the bolt I took out of the top of the CB and a large nut. When I put it back in, I put the rod down the hole inside the vessel and threaded the longer rod into the top of the CB’s carrier. With someone underneath helping guide I pulled the rod up and tightened the nut by hand. Once up my helper blocked it underneath and I was able to pull the threaded rod out and thread the bolt back in. It actually went very smooth.
Good luck
On both my 240 and 260 the centerboard was/is hard to raise- had to use the winch. I also bent a turning block one time. It is easier in the water with the boat moving forward to help raise it. If you are confident that you used the correct holes in the bracket, routed the uphaul line correctly and got the bracket back in and bolted up tight not much else you can do. Try in the water with some forward speed and see if that helps.
Thank you, it's a great idea. My problem is when the bracket and keel are re-installed and I test to lift the keel from the deck (on dry land) it is extremelly hard to lift, I need to use my winch to lift the keel, that is when the cheek block bended, way too much tension on the lines. Any idea why?
I read this post and wondering if my problem is the thickness of keel - where is actually rotate while in the bracket, he mentionned that he can raise it by hand... Let me know what you think, I appreciate your input.
This is the position of my pins, you can see how the bracket creates frictions (red spot) wondering if I shoudl sand that down?
Your keel has no ballast. A 2-year old should be able to easily lift the line. My guess is that your lift line skipped the groove and is now being pinched between the keel and the keel-trunk... or (like you suspect already), you are using the wrong pin holes when you put the bracket back in. Those brackets have unused holes because they were made to be universal and usable on the H23, H240, H26, H260.
I went back and looked at my old files. I'm afraid I don't have a good picture of which holes I used when putting my H26 back together. I'm going to guess that if you look carefully at your existing setup, you will see signs of wear on the pin holes you are supposed to be using.
The only other trouble shooting idea I have is that you are not running the line around the cam (the curved top of the keel). The cam provides leverage.
The only other trouble shooting idea I have is that you are not running the line around the cam (the curved top of the keel). The cam provides leverage.
Thank you for the drawing, the good news is, that is the way we passed the line, but should the plastic roller (roller-pin) actually roll on the cam (top of keel) to have the leverage effect? When it was, the tension made it chipped the keel cam. I'm wondering if I should shave the CAM or the roller?