When I tried to launch my boat for the first time this season, I found that I could not fully retract the centerboard. Consequently, I could not push the boat off the trailer. Last fall, all seemed to be fine. If I get under the boat, I can push the centerboard all the way up and I can then tighten the line to hold it up. When I pull on the line I can feel it hit a stop, but the board is not all the way up. I wonder if the cable attachment to the centerboard has slipped. Any guidance would be helpful, including a diagram of the retracting mechanism.
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- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
tight blocks
Your blocks inside the cuddy should have a bit more play, but I will bet that they are tight to each other, when the board is not up all the way. If this is the case shorten the line where it is anchored on the sole of the cabin and try again. It is all wire (or should be) from the centerboard to the first block. See attached pic. Page two in the following link has a schematic for the up line.
Your blocks inside the cuddy should have a bit more play, but I will bet that they are tight to each other, when the board is not up all the way. If this is the case shorten the line where it is anchored on the sole of the cabin and try again. It is all wire (or should be) from the centerboard to the first block. See attached pic. Page two in the following link has a schematic for the up line.
Thanks, Roger, Regarding Centerboard Problem
Thanks for the suggestion and the diagram. I believe tight blocks are at least part of the problem. Judging from the "bumps" I feel as I raise the centerboard, I think there may also be something foreign inside the centerboard trunk. My next step is to investigate that. Perhaps I can flush out something.
Thanks for the suggestion and the diagram. I believe tight blocks are at least part of the problem. Judging from the "bumps" I feel as I raise the centerboard, I think there may also be something foreign inside the centerboard trunk. My next step is to investigate that. Perhaps I can flush out something.
- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
update on cb leak fix
This is an update to previous postings and the link indicating a fix using a 3/4" x 1" nipple to fix a leak of lake water from the centerboard trunk into the bilge on Daysailer II's. The top hole (centerboard downhaul) does not appear to be an issue. It is upright, and the filler material between inner and outer molds is in place on my boat. The hole is shaped like the upper half of an hour glass. The lower hole is 3/8" wide and the upper portion is 3/4" wide. It is 1 1/8" from top to bottom. A 1/4" inch line passes through here. Any water splashing up, likely drains back down into the cb trunk. The lower hole is horizontal, but does not have filler material, and is likely the source for water entering the bilge. Otherwise it is of similar configuration to the upper hole in dimension. A threaded nipple, properly siliconed or epoxied would likely affect a proper fix, but here is the controversy. Would this divert water into the cuddy instead? I had thought of making the nipple slightly longer and putting an end cap on it, with a 3/16" hole in the center, just large enough to allow the wire to pass. This would act as a dam and encourage most of the water to flow back into the cb trunk. I am thinking that the lack of filler material in the lower hole was actually designed this way, and perhaps SHOULD NOT be fixed. If you have a DS II in your driveway, a mirror and flashlight, I would appreciate your comments on what you see. You will need to pry off the donut with a screwdriver. It came off relatively easy without damage. Here is what I saw...
This is an update to previous postings and the link indicating a fix using a 3/4" x 1" nipple to fix a leak of lake water from the centerboard trunk into the bilge on Daysailer II's. The top hole (centerboard downhaul) does not appear to be an issue. It is upright, and the filler material between inner and outer molds is in place on my boat. The hole is shaped like the upper half of an hour glass. The lower hole is 3/8" wide and the upper portion is 3/4" wide. It is 1 1/8" from top to bottom. A 1/4" inch line passes through here. Any water splashing up, likely drains back down into the cb trunk. The lower hole is horizontal, but does not have filler material, and is likely the source for water entering the bilge. Otherwise it is of similar configuration to the upper hole in dimension. A threaded nipple, properly siliconed or epoxied would likely affect a proper fix, but here is the controversy. Would this divert water into the cuddy instead? I had thought of making the nipple slightly longer and putting an end cap on it, with a 3/16" hole in the center, just large enough to allow the wire to pass. This would act as a dam and encourage most of the water to flow back into the cb trunk. I am thinking that the lack of filler material in the lower hole was actually designed this way, and perhaps SHOULD NOT be fixed. If you have a DS II in your driveway, a mirror and flashlight, I would appreciate your comments on what you see. You will need to pry off the donut with a screwdriver. It came off relatively easy without damage. Here is what I saw...
For what it's worth
Even though it looks like you got your answer, check out http://home.comcast.net/~laforgew/oday/odayboat.html for some pictures of repair work that I am involved in with an O'Day Daysailor. Good Luck, Wayne L
Even though it looks like you got your answer, check out http://home.comcast.net/~laforgew/oday/odayboat.html for some pictures of repair work that I am involved in with an O'Day Daysailor. Good Luck, Wayne L
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