Centerboard Cable Runs......?
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Greg...
Keep the brass or bronze conduit cause the cable will slice thru pvc like butter, I've had the problem with pvc conduit and rope,jet line and steel cable cutting thru it while pulling cable in my profession as an electrican, we install steel elbows when setting up conduit runs that might require a lot of tension so the pipe will not get sliced up. And when you have elbows going in different directions the cable will be rubbing along the conduit wall as tension is applied.
Keep the brass or bronze conduit cause the cable will slice thru pvc like butter, I've had the problem with pvc conduit and rope,jet line and steel cable cutting thru it while pulling cable in my profession as an electrican, we install steel elbows when setting up conduit runs that might require a lot of tension so the pipe will not get sliced up. And when you have elbows going in different directions the cable will be rubbing along the conduit wall as tension is applied.
Maybe it is more than 100#
But I think it is probably just trying to overcome all the 90 degree turns. I still don't think that there is major stress like on a swing keel type boat. When you replace this, you will need to cut and thread hard pipe so that new unions will seal. As I think about this, a hard connection from the hull to the deck probably has some movement. Plastic pipe is too brittle and probably not strong enough if something flexes more than usual. That is probably why you have the leak now. When the boat flexes with the hard set up that you have, it has to give somewhere. It has worked on the thru plate. That is why it leaks. I think I would go with a flex hose, making sure that the cable doesn't rub against it. That should be hard. Those sheeve look like they line up well. Sorry, I have no definite answer but trying to relate the total situation. r.w.landau
But I think it is probably just trying to overcome all the 90 degree turns. I still don't think that there is major stress like on a swing keel type boat. When you replace this, you will need to cut and thread hard pipe so that new unions will seal. As I think about this, a hard connection from the hull to the deck probably has some movement. Plastic pipe is too brittle and probably not strong enough if something flexes more than usual. That is probably why you have the leak now. When the boat flexes with the hard set up that you have, it has to give somewhere. It has worked on the thru plate. That is why it leaks. I think I would go with a flex hose, making sure that the cable doesn't rub against it. That should be hard. Those sheeve look like they line up well. Sorry, I have no definite answer but trying to relate the total situation. r.w.landau
Lightning could be one reason
they never grounded the CB cable and housing. It is another path to the water (eg., ground) and it would be bad if you lost your CB, or control of it. Same with rudder too but lightning is most likely to hit the rigging if I am not mistaken. You could just set up a separate zinc for the CB pipes or just ground it so that the shaft zinc does all the work. I am also a bit concrned that that your CB pennant makes so many (2) 90 degree turns before it gets to the cockpit. On my boat the pennant comes up just forward of the engine and takes one somewhat less than 90 degree turn to get into the cockpit. More systems = more maintenance.
they never grounded the CB cable and housing. It is another path to the water (eg., ground) and it would be bad if you lost your CB, or control of it. Same with rudder too but lightning is most likely to hit the rigging if I am not mistaken. You could just set up a separate zinc for the CB pipes or just ground it so that the shaft zinc does all the work. I am also a bit concrned that that your CB pennant makes so many (2) 90 degree turns before it gets to the cockpit. On my boat the pennant comes up just forward of the engine and takes one somewhat less than 90 degree turn to get into the cockpit. More systems = more maintenance.
Greg...
You just reminded me that when I was looking at the same boat I asked about the centerboard cable and the owner pointed to the top of deck along side of the cockpit hatch and I looked right below and didn't see no pipe so I understand how many bends are in that sucker.
You just reminded me that when I was looking at the same boat I asked about the centerboard cable and the owner pointed to the top of deck along side of the cockpit hatch and I looked right below and didn't see no pipe so I understand how many bends are in that sucker.
Greg, I understand that it swings up but
the difference between a centerboard and a swing keel is that the ballast is in the swing keel. The centerboard is just a foil. r.w.landau
the difference between a centerboard and a swing keel is that the ballast is in the swing keel. The centerboard is just a foil. r.w.landau
Lots of good advice here. My 2 cents;
Use new bronze pipe. Duplicate what was there. It will be cheaper and it worked for 20 years. Failure of the cable/sheave system only leaves your keel down. You could use a "fish" for electrolysis when you're at the dock. Take a piece of zinc (I pick up the big used pieces from where they work on steel fishboats) attach a wire to it, put the wire around your bronze pipe, put the zinc over the side. Don't forget to bring it in before you leave the dock. I watched a guy who had a fish on his propellor shaft for the winter fire up and put the boat in gear. It made a hell of a clunk when it hit his deck.
Use new bronze pipe. Duplicate what was there. It will be cheaper and it worked for 20 years. Failure of the cable/sheave system only leaves your keel down. You could use a "fish" for electrolysis when you're at the dock. Take a piece of zinc (I pick up the big used pieces from where they work on steel fishboats) attach a wire to it, put the wire around your bronze pipe, put the zinc over the side. Don't forget to bring it in before you leave the dock. I watched a guy who had a fish on his propellor shaft for the winter fire up and put the boat in gear. It made a hell of a clunk when it hit his deck.
Electrolisis has to have a complete circuit to
occur, does it not? I would not ground it to the boat, It would just complete the circuit and then encourage electrolisis. You must protect your Prop and shaft because they are grounded to your battery. Back to the repiping. I would remove all the existing brass/bronze. Then install new bronze pipe nipples that are maybe 3" long into the thru plate and the bottom of the first sheeve. Then on that section only, use a hose that is cut 3" short of the distance from the thru plate to the bottom of the sheeve housing.Push the hose over either pipe nipple and then on to the other pipe nipple covering each nipple about 1" to 1 1/2". Use two hose clamps on each pipe nipple. This will give that section some give. I would repipe the rest as it is now. I would be concerned that the hose on the horizontal run would sag and rub the cable. r.w.landau
occur, does it not? I would not ground it to the boat, It would just complete the circuit and then encourage electrolisis. You must protect your Prop and shaft because they are grounded to your battery. Back to the repiping. I would remove all the existing brass/bronze. Then install new bronze pipe nipples that are maybe 3" long into the thru plate and the bottom of the first sheeve. Then on that section only, use a hose that is cut 3" short of the distance from the thru plate to the bottom of the sheeve housing.Push the hose over either pipe nipple and then on to the other pipe nipple covering each nipple about 1" to 1 1/2". Use two hose clamps on each pipe nipple. This will give that section some give. I would repipe the rest as it is now. I would be concerned that the hose on the horizontal run would sag and rub the cable. r.w.landau
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