I have an inboard Yanmar that was sitting for many years. I had a Yanmar technician look at it and he thinks it's ceased from sitting too long. I am a neo-phyte however I may beg to differ. The propellar is turning, I thought a ceased engine would never turnover like that. I can move the transmission to either reverse or forward without any problem. To all you afficanados out there, am I wrong in assuming that the engine isn't ceased? Any constructive help appreciated.
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a few things
Hello, Are you stating that you can turn the propeller when the engine is in gear? If so, your motor is not seized, but broken! There is (or should) be too much compression to turn the engine over with the prop. If you can turn the prop with the trans in neutral that doesn't tell you much. If you mean the prop turns when you attempt to start the engine with the starter, then the motor is no seized. There may be valve problems or fuel problems or ?? This is going to real tough to diagnose over the internet. Good luck, Barry
Hello, Are you stating that you can turn the propeller when the engine is in gear? If so, your motor is not seized, but broken! There is (or should) be too much compression to turn the engine over with the prop. If you can turn the prop with the trans in neutral that doesn't tell you much. If you mean the prop turns when you attempt to start the engine with the starter, then the motor is no seized. There may be valve problems or fuel problems or ?? This is going to real tough to diagnose over the internet. Good luck, Barry
Engine Stuck?
Remove the injectures and add an ounce of Marvel's Mystery Oil in each cylinder. Let it set for a day or two. Then try to crank it over by hand. Once your able to do this.....Change oil and ALL the filters, make sure you have clean "new" fuel then give it a try. There is a good chance that the injectors or injection pump will have to be cleaned or overhauled. If the engine has sat a long time there will be some "rust" on interior surfaces. A fresh oil change (with filters) after about 4-5 hours of operation will help here. In a diesel..if the fuel injection function is working OK...it should run. Good Luck!
Remove the injectures and add an ounce of Marvel's Mystery Oil in each cylinder. Let it set for a day or two. Then try to crank it over by hand. Once your able to do this.....Change oil and ALL the filters, make sure you have clean "new" fuel then give it a try. There is a good chance that the injectors or injection pump will have to be cleaned or overhauled. If the engine has sat a long time there will be some "rust" on interior surfaces. A fresh oil change (with filters) after about 4-5 hours of operation will help here. In a diesel..if the fuel injection function is working OK...it should run. Good Luck!
Turn engine by hand
Try turning the engine by hand not the prop,put a socket with breaker bar or racet on the nut at the big v-belt at crankshaft and try turning the engine,also try releaseing the decompression levers.
Try turning the engine by hand not the prop,put a socket with breaker bar or racet on the nut at the big v-belt at crankshaft and try turning the engine,also try releaseing the decompression levers.
Speaking as ...
... a diesel mechanic, it appears you are truly clueless. Warren's advice is sound but he is assuming you know how to locate the parts he mentions, have the proper tools (such as a line wrench and injector socket), and the mechanical savy to follow what he is saying. I'd advise you to follow your mechanic's advice or get a second opinion. By the way, don't you trust your mechanic? If not, get another one. What has he to gain by deceiving you? Isn't he certified and qualified? Hasn't he worked at the yard for years?
... a diesel mechanic, it appears you are truly clueless. Warren's advice is sound but he is assuming you know how to locate the parts he mentions, have the proper tools (such as a line wrench and injector socket), and the mechanical savy to follow what he is saying. I'd advise you to follow your mechanic's advice or get a second opinion. By the way, don't you trust your mechanic? If not, get another one. What has he to gain by deceiving you? Isn't he certified and qualified? Hasn't he worked at the yard for years?
MMO
Carefully follow Warrens advice about the MARVEL MYSTERY OI and letting it sit for a few days. DO NOT *force* the engine to turn over by starter or breaker bar on the crankshaft. If the piston rings are stuck in their grooves, all forcing will do is break the rings. With the injectors removed and with a breaker bar and a socket attached to the crankshaft attempt to ROCK the cranksahft back and forth bot DO NOT force it. Keep adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the combustion chamber and keep rocking back and forth until the rings eventually break free. then again without force rotate the engine by hand and if it 'binds' simply add MORE marvel mystery oil ... 99% of the time with patience it WILL break free. Then check for compression by carefully putting you finger over the injector hole while you slowly turn the crankshaft. If no compression, open the valve cover and find/lubricate/tap with a plastic hammer, etc. the valve that is stuck..... MMO and pushing it up and down until free will 'recover' it. Once you totally free the rings and have verified compression, fill the crankcase to normal level with AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID OR MARVEL MYSTERY OIL and spin the engine with the starter. Let set a day or so. THEN start the engine and RUN WITH NO LOAD at low idle speed - to help polish the cylinder walls and clean the crud from the ring grooves, etc. (Have a rag standing by to shove into the air intake (filter/silencer removed) so that if the engine begins to "RUN AWAY" (catastrophically high RPM - which will cause the engine to 'explode', etc. --- shove the rag into the air intake to shut it down ... and dont let your fingers, clothes, etc. get sucked into the intake. ) LET SOAK. return the next day and run AT NO LOAD but with higher rpm in NEUTRAL until engine comes to normal operating temperature THEN change the oil to normal diesel grade oil. "BABY' the engine in stages for a while until you get full rpm out of it. Then once you are confident that the engine mechanical are OK bring it up to high rpm and quickly close the throttle a few times to help reseat the rings, etc. Good luck. Just dont let a 'mechanic' force the engine to turn over (or you will break the piston rings) and then he can sell you a new engine, etc. Be patient in getting it to turn over and dont FORCE it. Most of the time if you're careful and patient you can 'recover' a 'rust siezed' engine. ;-)
Carefully follow Warrens advice about the MARVEL MYSTERY OI and letting it sit for a few days. DO NOT *force* the engine to turn over by starter or breaker bar on the crankshaft. If the piston rings are stuck in their grooves, all forcing will do is break the rings. With the injectors removed and with a breaker bar and a socket attached to the crankshaft attempt to ROCK the cranksahft back and forth bot DO NOT force it. Keep adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the combustion chamber and keep rocking back and forth until the rings eventually break free. then again without force rotate the engine by hand and if it 'binds' simply add MORE marvel mystery oil ... 99% of the time with patience it WILL break free. Then check for compression by carefully putting you finger over the injector hole while you slowly turn the crankshaft. If no compression, open the valve cover and find/lubricate/tap with a plastic hammer, etc. the valve that is stuck..... MMO and pushing it up and down until free will 'recover' it. Once you totally free the rings and have verified compression, fill the crankcase to normal level with AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID OR MARVEL MYSTERY OIL and spin the engine with the starter. Let set a day or so. THEN start the engine and RUN WITH NO LOAD at low idle speed - to help polish the cylinder walls and clean the crud from the ring grooves, etc. (Have a rag standing by to shove into the air intake (filter/silencer removed) so that if the engine begins to "RUN AWAY" (catastrophically high RPM - which will cause the engine to 'explode', etc. --- shove the rag into the air intake to shut it down ... and dont let your fingers, clothes, etc. get sucked into the intake. ) LET SOAK. return the next day and run AT NO LOAD but with higher rpm in NEUTRAL until engine comes to normal operating temperature THEN change the oil to normal diesel grade oil. "BABY' the engine in stages for a while until you get full rpm out of it. Then once you are confident that the engine mechanical are OK bring it up to high rpm and quickly close the throttle a few times to help reseat the rings, etc. Good luck. Just dont let a 'mechanic' force the engine to turn over (or you will break the piston rings) and then he can sell you a new engine, etc. Be patient in getting it to turn over and dont FORCE it. Most of the time if you're careful and patient you can 'recover' a 'rust siezed' engine. ;-)
Find someone to Trust
Johnson Wright seems to understand your predicament. If you are not knowledgeable about diesel engines, you should be the LAST person to take the injectors off the cylinders. While Wright's comments and others make sense, and Rich's are superb, you'd most likely be much more comfortable finding someone you TRUST to work on your "baby." That's why they have "specialists." If they agree with Rich's ideas, then it sounds like you have a winner of a mechanic. I not, he should be considered questionable at best. Good luck, Stu
Johnson Wright seems to understand your predicament. If you are not knowledgeable about diesel engines, you should be the LAST person to take the injectors off the cylinders. While Wright's comments and others make sense, and Rich's are superb, you'd most likely be much more comfortable finding someone you TRUST to work on your "baby." That's why they have "specialists." If they agree with Rich's ideas, then it sounds like you have a winner of a mechanic. I not, he should be considered questionable at best. Good luck, Stu
Ceased (sp)
I think my biggest problem is spelling seized as ceased. I usually pride myself on spelling and I wasn't sure I was spelling it right in the first place (its seems a bit of esoteric jargon) however, shame on me and thank you all for your help and suggestions. Johnson
I think my biggest problem is spelling seized as ceased. I usually pride myself on spelling and I wasn't sure I was spelling it right in the first place (its seems a bit of esoteric jargon) however, shame on me and thank you all for your help and suggestions. Johnson
My experience was....
I bought a '86 Hunter 31 with a Yanmar 2GM20F engine that had been sitting for about 5 years. Moisture had got into the cylinders and they had rust rings inside the cylinder walls. The engine was not seized, but smoked badly. I had the cylinders bored, new pistons put in and it's OK. If your engine was inside a boat, the cylinders may be so badly rusted that the engine won't turn. If it was sitting outside, you may also have rust on the crank shaft due to water in che crank case. If you are mechanically inclined, get the service manual for your engine from Mack Boring & Parts at 800-622-5364. It will give full instructions to tear the engine down and put it back together. Best of luck.
I bought a '86 Hunter 31 with a Yanmar 2GM20F engine that had been sitting for about 5 years. Moisture had got into the cylinders and they had rust rings inside the cylinder walls. The engine was not seized, but smoked badly. I had the cylinders bored, new pistons put in and it's OK. If your engine was inside a boat, the cylinders may be so badly rusted that the engine won't turn. If it was sitting outside, you may also have rust on the crank shaft due to water in che crank case. If you are mechanically inclined, get the service manual for your engine from Mack Boring & Parts at 800-622-5364. It will give full instructions to tear the engine down and put it back together. Best of luck.
Spelling II
I hate it when I do that. I'm always going back over my old stuff here on HOW. Johnson, a couple of things. I have no idea how much cash you have,,but,, if your mechanical knowledge needs some classroom time, a sailboat is not a good place to be with an undependable engine. It might be a good 'item' to part with some cash for. (is that a 'past parta-something?) And I have a shop-manual for my engine. I've rebuilt the engine too. (3GM30F) The shop-manual assumes that the reader works in a 'machine shop'. It is written at that level. Consider it as 'reference' only. Unless, of course, Yanmar has re-written it.
I hate it when I do that. I'm always going back over my old stuff here on HOW. Johnson, a couple of things. I have no idea how much cash you have,,but,, if your mechanical knowledge needs some classroom time, a sailboat is not a good place to be with an undependable engine. It might be a good 'item' to part with some cash for. (is that a 'past parta-something?) And I have a shop-manual for my engine. I've rebuilt the engine too. (3GM30F) The shop-manual assumes that the reader works in a 'machine shop'. It is written at that level. Consider it as 'reference' only. Unless, of course, Yanmar has re-written it.
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