We have bought a new to us older (1988)ODAY 322 and when we took down the genoa roller furling sail for the winter, the aluminum furling foil kinked where the pieces join together ( about 20 feet up ). Has anyone tried to fix this problem ? How do we get the sail up in the Spring?
CDI roller furler problem
- Thread starter Leah and Ted
- Start date
Hmmm, does CDI even make a furler with aluminum foils? I have always thought they only made the Flexible Furler with one-piece "vinyl" foil.
contact CDI in Homer NY...they may have a replacement foil for you to solve your problem ...also take a look at relocating the kinked part to the upper most limits of the foil run it may be possible but not seeing you set up i cant say for sure ...hope this helps...
regards
woody
regards
woody
Wow, thanks for the info - very interesting. I was in the business during those years, yet was completely unaware of the CDI w/aluminum extrusions. Guess one can learn something everyday - even 25 years after the fact!
My original 1985 CDI Reefer Ii has aluminum sections. I upgraded the plastic drum two years ago and retained the old foil. They were very helpfull on the phone.
CDI is good
My old US 27 had a CDI furler with the aluminum extrusions. I called them and they had plenty of parts and it was not too bad. During a hurricane on a mooring the furler got beat up with a couple of connector broken. I took the pieces off, cut 1/8" off the ends clean with my chop saw and using the connectors I got from CDI put it all back together. Great service.
My old US 27 had a CDI furler with the aluminum extrusions. I called them and they had plenty of parts and it was not too bad. During a hurricane on a mooring the furler got beat up with a couple of connector broken. I took the pieces off, cut 1/8" off the ends clean with my chop saw and using the connectors I got from CDI put it all back together. Great service.
I have the Reefer II on my C-27. Someone broke the sections when the decided it was easier then taking them apart. They no longer have parts for mine. The technician suggest that I do what they do and that is to use the half lengths of the torque links instead of the full lengths, as they were broken in half. I repinged the channel to keep them in place and inserted the short sections of torque links. I duck taped the sections together for a little more stability. They have held for the past three years and still work just fine.
CDI roller furler problem still
How does it come apart ? Is it scewed together or pop riveted or ? Can it be worked on without taking it down? Thanks for the other comments..Ted
How does it come apart ? Is it scewed together or pop riveted or ? Can it be worked on without taking it down? Thanks for the other comments..Ted
You can see the factory ping that prevents the torque insert from sliding down. If you use half an insert re-ping half way between the factory ping and the end of the foil.
As mentioned before I used duct tape (the plastic kind) to stabilize the joints, so they don't pull apart while assembling. I have heard of others who have used a low temp aluminum braise to weld the joints.
Correction to previous post I have the Reefer I furler.
As mentioned before I used duct tape (the plastic kind) to stabilize the joints, so they don't pull apart while assembling. I have heard of others who have used a low temp aluminum braise to weld the joints.
Correction to previous post I have the Reefer I furler.
Attachments
CDI thanks again
Thanks for all the information. I guess we will have to wait until Spring to go up on a chair to see what is happened up on the furler, and then see what we really need to do about it. Again, thanks for the photos especially, they say a thousand words. Ted
Thanks for all the information. I guess we will have to wait until Spring to go up on a chair to see what is happened up on the furler, and then see what we really need to do about it. Again, thanks for the photos especially, they say a thousand words. Ted
Oday 322 roller furling
Hello. I have an Oday322 and the exact problem happened to mine, (I think around 20 feet up). I previously had other issues with the roller furling on an old Irwin 37. What I did was abandon my comfort zone with the roller furling and took it down, converted it to the old "hank on" jib. An older "salt" friend of mine persuaded me that the "hank on" is much less problematic and sails better. I've become a better sailor at a faster rate with the "hank on". More bow that helps when sailing. The only downfall is having to stow the sail but I have a dingy on the front and I just shove it underneath it on the bow. It only takes minutes to prepare for a sail. Since then, the less problematic "hank on" has been soooo much better. I'm also looking forward to getting different sized sails for when I need it. No more maintenance on the foils, and no more spooling problems. If a sail tears while sailing, you can have an inexpensive "previously owned" sail that you can hoist without ruining your voyage.
I had thought about using half of a broken torque link for this repair. (My CDI Reefer 1 aluminum system has the same broken links...) seems like not enough to hold this joint stable. I am seeking parts from several dealers and will post here if I find them. did anyone find the replacements since late 2013?
CDI 8/9 furler
I have been looking for torque links and Luff extrusions for about 6 months and have found nothing yet.
Anyone know of possible source for 9980 Luff Extrusions and the torque links that are used with them?
I have been looking for torque links and Luff extrusions for about 6 months and have found nothing yet.
Anyone know of possible source for 9980 Luff Extrusions and the torque links that are used with them?
Re: CDI roller furler problem still
It was held together by what were called torque links..that had small fins that fit into a like mated
extrusion above or below...the alum extrusion has more longevity than the drum..I don't believe
Cruising Design has more of the torque links but I have maybe 3 or 4 of hem....extras they sent me a long time ago...some one should manufacture them....need an aluminum foundry...
It was held together by what were called torque links..that had small fins that fit into a like mated
extrusion above or below...the alum extrusion has more longevity than the drum..I don't believe
Cruising Design has more of the torque links but I have maybe 3 or 4 of hem....extras they sent me a long time ago...some one should manufacture them....need an aluminum foundry...
As kind of an aside, the version of the CDI Reefer II that does not have an internal halyard uses a unique lock at the top to secure the top of the jib. This is accomplished by securing the top of the jib to a travelling part and inserting it in one of the slots on the double grooved foil. The sail is raised by inserting a second piece (a "key") into the parallel slot and raising it with the halyard. When the two pieces reach the top the lock engages and the hoisting traveler is then pulled back down with a messenger line leaving the sail up and locked. The sail is tensioned with a down haul at the foot and secured. When lowering the sail, the "key" is reversed and sent back up the vacant slot where it unlocks the head of the sail and both come down together.
My problem has always been the way my sail is attached to that piece that locks. I have a piece of wire that is looped through the head of the sail and secured with a swage sleeve. The same is done on the locking traveler. I can never hoist the "key" past the cable loops no matter how hard I pull on the halyard. Even after hammering the wire loop as small as I possibly can, the tolerance is still too close. I always have to go up the mast and hammer that thing up into the lock.
How do the rest of you secure the sail head to the gizmo so the key can pass by it?
My problem has always been the way my sail is attached to that piece that locks. I have a piece of wire that is looped through the head of the sail and secured with a swage sleeve. The same is done on the locking traveler. I can never hoist the "key" past the cable loops no matter how hard I pull on the halyard. Even after hammering the wire loop as small as I possibly can, the tolerance is still too close. I always have to go up the mast and hammer that thing up into the lock.
How do the rest of you secure the sail head to the gizmo so the key can pass by it?
I don't have pictures but I can take some as soon a I can access my boat.
The items are the same as those shown in post #10 of 12-07-2013.
Do you have access to these type of parts?
My reefer was damaged and one of the foils (Luff extrusions) was bent. The torque inserts were also twisted.
The items are the same as those shown in post #10 of 12-07-2013.
Do you have access to these type of parts?
My reefer was damaged and one of the foils (Luff extrusions) was bent. The torque inserts were also twisted.