CDI Flexible furler opinions
- Thread starter hobbit
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You also need sun protection. It really isn't worth converting an old hank on sail once you get the prices for both a luff tape and the sun protection. You end up with $400 worth of work into a $500 sail. Sell your sail for $200 and buy a new one for $600-800. You won't regret it.
You can try to do the mod yourself, but it will be a hassle.
Bob
You can try to do the mod yourself, but it will be a hassle.
Bob
cdi my 2c
Ive got a cdi #ff4 with the bearings 2007 Model on my Pearson 26w. It has worked flawlessly for 3 seasons with a 125 genoa. Here are a couple of tips to make life easier. 1. Dont use a line thats too heavy on the drum 1/4" will do fine. 2. when hoisting too get enough tension on the halyard first flake the sail down on deck so it slides up the track without
binding . next get the sail all the way up and tie the halyard off. Finally what I did was put a small block on the shackle of the downhaul end. Take one of those small shroud cleats that
are used mainly to secure flag halyards. screw it on to the halyard about a foot above the deck. You might have to move it around a bit to get it in the right spot. After the sail is hoisted take the downhaul line thru the block. Tension it up and cleat it off. Sure beats holding the tension with one hand and tying a one handed knot with the other. Im 72
with a bad back, change from the 125 to working jib frequently depending on conditions. Im not having any trouble hoisting or tensioning the halyard
Ive got a cdi #ff4 with the bearings 2007 Model on my Pearson 26w. It has worked flawlessly for 3 seasons with a 125 genoa. Here are a couple of tips to make life easier. 1. Dont use a line thats too heavy on the drum 1/4" will do fine. 2. when hoisting too get enough tension on the halyard first flake the sail down on deck so it slides up the track without
binding . next get the sail all the way up and tie the halyard off. Finally what I did was put a small block on the shackle of the downhaul end. Take one of those small shroud cleats that
are used mainly to secure flag halyards. screw it on to the halyard about a foot above the deck. You might have to move it around a bit to get it in the right spot. After the sail is hoisted take the downhaul line thru the block. Tension it up and cleat it off. Sure beats holding the tension with one hand and tying a one handed knot with the other. Im 72
with a bad back, change from the 125 to working jib frequently depending on conditions. Im not having any trouble hoisting or tensioning the halyard
I owned a Shaefer snapfurl flexible furler on my last boat and have a CDI on my present boat. They both work.
I think the Schaefer is better quality and is easier to reef, halyard wrap was never a problem. The Shaefer does have an odd sized slot in the foil, the sail loft must know they are making a sail for this furler or the sail will be very hard or impossible to hoist. Schaefer have a warning about it on their website with max dimensions given. Also I think it is a #5 instead of a more standard #6 foil, at any rate the tolerances are very critical. The Shaefer has an open drum, another advantage.
The CDI inner drum is only held down by gravity, it can lift up if the genoa car is not in the correct position and there is any vertical component to the force on the sail. This can tangle the furling line and prevent you from bringing the sail in. I once had a tangle in the drum under sail on the CDI and while trying to clear it somehow I lifted the drum up, it came back down on the end of my finger almost taking the tip off between the inner drum and outer s/s drum cover
. This did not make me a fan of this furler .
Once this sail is done I will replace the sail and furler together.
The Shaefer snapfurl uses your original forestay the CDI needs a new one.
good luck, Bob
I think the Schaefer is better quality and is easier to reef, halyard wrap was never a problem. The Shaefer does have an odd sized slot in the foil, the sail loft must know they are making a sail for this furler or the sail will be very hard or impossible to hoist. Schaefer have a warning about it on their website with max dimensions given. Also I think it is a #5 instead of a more standard #6 foil, at any rate the tolerances are very critical. The Shaefer has an open drum, another advantage.
The CDI inner drum is only held down by gravity, it can lift up if the genoa car is not in the correct position and there is any vertical component to the force on the sail. This can tangle the furling line and prevent you from bringing the sail in. I once had a tangle in the drum under sail on the CDI and while trying to clear it somehow I lifted the drum up, it came back down on the end of my finger almost taking the tip off between the inner drum and outer s/s drum cover
. This did not make me a fan of this furler . Once this sail is done I will replace the sail and furler together.
The Shaefer snapfurl uses your original forestay the CDI needs a new one.
good luck, Bob
If you want an excellent furler at an outstanding price the Pro-Furl C290 is on sale at Defender right now for $649.00 (LINK). This is a GREAT furler at an amazing price.
The prices on these Pro-Furls are a Defender "special buy". I can tell you from experience that these items fly out the door. The CDI and the Pro-Furl are not even in the same league so this is a TREMENDOUS value. I'd grab one quickly before they're gone....
Pro-Furl C290 (LINK)
The prices on these Pro-Furls are a Defender "special buy". I can tell you from experience that these items fly out the door. The CDI and the Pro-Furl are not even in the same league so this is a TREMENDOUS value. I'd grab one quickly before they're gone....
Pro-Furl C290 (LINK)
I have a CDI FF2 on a Catalina 22. When I bought the furler, I had a new forestay made one size up, from 1/8" to 5/32". The difference in breaking strength increased from 2000 lbs to 3000 lbs. Do you wnat to know why? Because when you use a CDI furler, you lose the extra redundancy of the jib luff wire connected to the deck and the halyard to take strain off of the forestay. Furlers that use a halyard offer a backup connection in the event that something would break on the forestay. That being said, though, Im very pleased with how my CDI furler performs, and the price was less than their competitors.
Since your jib halyard is now free (not used with the CDI) you could tie that off to the pulpit if you have one. That would give you some protection from the mast coming down if the forestay did break. Others have done this and I'm going to also as we just got a CDI.
c ya,
Sum
Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID
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This is a really bad idea. Unless you're planning on going forward to remove the halyard each time you have to furl the sail, don't even think of doing this. If you get a halyard wrap with the jib halyard, you'd destroy the furling unit, just as any halyard wrap would. The reason the CDI furler uses an integrated halyard is to avoid the risk of halyard wrap.
:naughty:
:naughty:
Negative 1 C290 for Defender's stock.
Hermit Scott just ordered one.. Better decide fast...
I called defender just now, but I guess they are closed due to the holiday. Do you know what the max length is for this furler?Negative 1 C290 for Defender's stock.
Hermit Scott just ordered one.. Better decide fast...
I know this is usually a question to be addressed before ordering, but at that price I thought it better to shoot first and ask questions later.
According to the manual, the max length of the furling setup is 34' and change. This measurement appears to include the top swivel down to the furling drum and toggle.
Yes, I agree with Sailingdog...Hermit likely needs a C320 (also on sale at defender for $735)...the C290 is probably too small for a C30 as it maxes out a 40' and your mast is taller than that (41?). I saw on one site where they indicated the pin to pin length for a C30's forestay is 43' 2" which sounds about right.
See the selection guide:
http://www.defender.com/ftp/profurl_system_selection.pdf
See the selection guide:
http://www.defender.com/ftp/profurl_system_selection.pdf
In the manual for the 290 it states this <standard furling length 10m(8,12 and 14m)>
What does that mean?
This is the page. http://www.profurl.com/fiche-A|PROFURL|C290-0201010000000000-theme-UK.html
Standard furling length (others) : 10m (8, 12 and 14m)
As usually, when ordering something expensive and important, I mess it up. So I ordered both the furlers to make sure I secure the one I need. Hopefully I can talk to them before they send them both. I sent emails to explain the deal.
What does that mean?
This is the page. http://www.profurl.com/fiche-A|PROFURL|C290-0201010000000000-theme-UK.html
Standard furling length (others) : 10m (8, 12 and 14m)
As usually, when ordering something expensive and important, I mess it up. So I ordered both the furlers to make sure I secure the one I need. Hopefully I can talk to them before they send them both. I sent emails to explain the deal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumner
Since your jib halyard is now free (not used with the CDI) you could tie that off to the pulpit if you have one. That would give you some protection from the mast coming down if the forestay did break. Others have done this and I'm going to also as we just got a CDI.
at least on my boat that is a fractional rig. I know of a few guys with boats like mine that are doing this. The old halyard is not being used with the CDI. It is out in front of the CDI and the CID's internal halyard and the forestay. It is tied to the front of the pulpit on the boat and not near the CDI. It is tied taught. How is it going to wrap around the CDI or effect furling the sail?
Sum
Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID
Our Mac Pages
Mac Links
Originally Posted by Sumner
Since your jib halyard is now free (not used with the CDI) you could tie that off to the pulpit if you have one. That would give you some protection from the mast coming down if the forestay did break. Others have done this and I'm going to also as we just got a CDI.
Sorry, but I don't understand how it is a problem
at least on my boat that is a fractional rig. I know of a few guys with boats like mine that are doing this. The old halyard is not being used with the CDI. It is out in front of the CDI and the CID's internal halyard and the forestay. It is tied to the front of the pulpit on the boat and not near the CDI. It is tied taught. How is it going to wrap around the CDI or effect furling the sail?Sum
Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID
Our Mac Pages
Mac Links
Sum—
If it is a jib halyard, it won't be in front of the forestay, it will be under the forestay...the halyard you're thinking of is most likely the SPINNAKER HALYARD, which comes out of the mast above the forestay. However, you clearly said to use the old jib halyard as a safety, and that will run fairly close to the sail, possibly cause chafe against the sail and also risks a halyard wrap...
Here is a photo of the jib halyard, courtesy of the svsarah.com website, attached to the top swivel of a roller furling unit. IT IS BELOW THE FORESTAY. The line that is in the block above the forestay is the SPINNAKER HALYARD.
If it is a jib halyard, it won't be in front of the forestay, it will be under the forestay...the halyard you're thinking of is most likely the SPINNAKER HALYARD, which comes out of the mast above the forestay. However, you clearly said to use the old jib halyard as a safety, and that will run fairly close to the sail, possibly cause chafe against the sail and also risks a halyard wrap...
Here is a photo of the jib halyard, courtesy of the svsarah.com website, attached to the top swivel of a roller furling unit. IT IS BELOW THE FORESTAY. The line that is in the block above the forestay is the SPINNAKER HALYARD.
Sorry, but I don't understand how it is a problem
Sum
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