I seem to remember ancient posts regarding caulking the deck/hull joint on Hunter 23's. I cannot remember whether the advise was to caulk the top joint only, top & bottom (above and below rub rail) or bottom joint only. Seems like I recall someone saying do one but not the other because of draining issues or something similar. Anybody have any words of wisdom concerning this topic? I want to strip the old stuff and re-caulk prior to spring launching. Currently both are caulked, but cracking due to age. I intend to re-caulk with silicone due to flexibility, just don't know which seams to do. Help please!!!
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Kevin Keen
To Caulk or not to caulk, that is the question
Dan: After weighing all the pros and cons, 3 years ago I caulked above and below the rub rail with white 5200. It still is holding up okay and keeps the water out when heeled over with the rail in the water. Okay, okay, the H23 is dinghy, so by the time the rail is in water, the fin is in the air. But putting a total seal around the boat at the rub rail helps keep the boat dry. - Kevin.
Dan: After weighing all the pros and cons, 3 years ago I caulked above and below the rub rail with white 5200. It still is holding up okay and keeps the water out when heeled over with the rail in the water. Okay, okay, the H23 is dinghy, so by the time the rail is in water, the fin is in the air. But putting a total seal around the boat at the rub rail helps keep the boat dry. - Kevin.
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Dan Ulrich
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Crazy Dave
caulk
5200 is used between the hull and deck joint. Usually that is not the problem. Over a period of time, the rub rail keeps being banged. I will assume that you have a rub rail that is secrewed into the joint with screws and then the insert is in place. I bet the problem is due to water where the srews are loose. To fix, remove the insert and be sure to mark it against the rub rail main portion when putting the insert back you know where it should be lined up. Use 5200. Another place to check is the shroud chain plate/ you will observe a cover plate with four or two screws. Take off and lift up, clean old caulk and recaulk with silicon. The best I use is West Marine brand which is actually made by Siliflex. Great stuff as it will not shrink and seals too great. Do not use this below the water line
5200 is used between the hull and deck joint. Usually that is not the problem. Over a period of time, the rub rail keeps being banged. I will assume that you have a rub rail that is secrewed into the joint with screws and then the insert is in place. I bet the problem is due to water where the srews are loose. To fix, remove the insert and be sure to mark it against the rub rail main portion when putting the insert back you know where it should be lined up. Use 5200. Another place to check is the shroud chain plate/ you will observe a cover plate with four or two screws. Take off and lift up, clean old caulk and recaulk with silicon. The best I use is West Marine brand which is actually made by Siliflex. Great stuff as it will not shrink and seals too great. Do not use this below the water line
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Dan Ulrich
Crazy Dave
I don't have any leaks, it is just that the caulking needs replacing, and I want to do it correctly. More of a preventative maint than anything. Whatcha think, above/below or both.
I don't have any leaks, it is just that the caulking needs replacing, and I want to do it correctly. More of a preventative maint than anything. Whatcha think, above/below or both.
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Crazy Dave
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Dan Ulrich
Crazy Dave Again!
Ya lost me. Should I do both seams? I want to replace the caulk anyway! It is starting to peal in places.
Ya lost me. Should I do both seams? I want to replace the caulk anyway! It is starting to peal in places.
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Crazy Dave
oops
Cut out till you get to solid caulking and then replace with new caulking which should be 5200 between the hull and deck joint. Now I understand.
Cut out till you get to solid caulking and then replace with new caulking which should be 5200 between the hull and deck joint. Now I understand.
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Kevin Keen
Reply to Dan and Dave
Dan: I caulked above and below the rubbing strake to keep water (mostly rainwater) out. The idea being to totally seal the boat at the rubbing strake. Dave: You mention caulking the hull-deck join. Do you mean caulking the join from inside the boat? Also, I agree that 3M 5200 (or similar from another manufacturer) is best. Although 5200 is touted as being permanent and is UV-protected, after 5 years it will be UV-damaged enough to be as simple to remove as 3M 4200. (If not then just wait a couple of more seasons!) One really needs to do the rubbing strake recaulking during fall lay-up or spring outfitting because 5200 long-cure takes about 7 days to cure completely. I haven't tried the 5200 short-cure product in this application. - Kevin.
Dan: I caulked above and below the rubbing strake to keep water (mostly rainwater) out. The idea being to totally seal the boat at the rubbing strake. Dave: You mention caulking the hull-deck join. Do you mean caulking the join from inside the boat? Also, I agree that 3M 5200 (or similar from another manufacturer) is best. Although 5200 is touted as being permanent and is UV-protected, after 5 years it will be UV-damaged enough to be as simple to remove as 3M 4200. (If not then just wait a couple of more seasons!) One really needs to do the rubbing strake recaulking during fall lay-up or spring outfitting because 5200 long-cure takes about 7 days to cure completely. I haven't tried the 5200 short-cure product in this application. - Kevin.
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Crazy Dave
Kevin
5200 by 3M is used as the main sealant to joining deck to hull, thru hulls below the water line and so forth. it is tenacious and I have been working on boats for nearly 35 years. Your suggestion is fine but in the long run will not keep water from coming in at the deck to hull joint should the caulking be bad. Know that I think about it, I will tell Dan to check the nuts and bolts or pop rivets to see if they are tight that are used on the hull to deck joint too.
5200 by 3M is used as the main sealant to joining deck to hull, thru hulls below the water line and so forth. it is tenacious and I have been working on boats for nearly 35 years. Your suggestion is fine but in the long run will not keep water from coming in at the deck to hull joint should the caulking be bad. Know that I think about it, I will tell Dan to check the nuts and bolts or pop rivets to see if they are tight that are used on the hull to deck joint too.
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Kevin Keen
To Crazy Dave
Dave: I agree with you, the caulking must be done well to keep the water out. Have you applied 5200 to the hull-deck join from the interior of the boat? - Kevin.
Dave: I agree with you, the caulking must be done well to keep the water out. Have you applied 5200 to the hull-deck join from the interior of the boat? - Kevin.
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