Long window on starboard side caulk is getting old and has cracked, giving water an easy "in". I need to replace the caulk. QUESTIONS..... 1. Are the windows secured by adhesive caulk? Or does the caulk just make it water tight? 2. What kind of caulk to use. 3. Any recommendations on problems or mistakes to avoid? 4. Advice on proper caulking technique. Thanks in advance.
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So there are no fasteners?
I have a 26.5 and the port is square, trimmed with wood on the inside. Outside is a very 80s-looking, streamlined plastic cover that extends well beyond the actual port. It is held on with screws and sealed around the perimeter with a very thin gasket and marine adhesive/caulk. If you see no screws (and I'm assuming you don't or you wouldn't be asking), the window cover must be held in place as is mine, minus the screws.
I have a 26.5 and the port is square, trimmed with wood on the inside. Outside is a very 80s-looking, streamlined plastic cover that extends well beyond the actual port. It is held on with screws and sealed around the perimeter with a very thin gasket and marine adhesive/caulk. If you see no screws (and I'm assuming you don't or you wouldn't be asking), the window cover must be held in place as is mine, minus the screws.
Use Dow Corning 795
I called The factory about the windows on my 260 . He told me to remove the old adhesive then sand the area and lastly use acetone to clean hull area ("do not" use acetone on windows paint thinner works fine)then buy some tubes of Dow Corning 795 (took 4 to do one side of the 260). The above worked fine for me good luck.
I called The factory about the windows on my 260 . He told me to remove the old adhesive then sand the area and lastly use acetone to clean hull area ("do not" use acetone on windows paint thinner works fine)then buy some tubes of Dow Corning 795 (took 4 to do one side of the 260). The above worked fine for me good luck.
It is an adhesive sealant
DC-795 - google it. It takes a long time to set up completely and the port must be held in place for several days mechanically. I used several sand bags tied together over the cabin top to press the port to the hull along with some small wooden wedges to center the port. Get some double sided sticky spacers like they use on car windows and put them on the port to maintain a thick seal at the places where pressure would push it out. Clean all (and I mean all) of the old sealant. Sand with fine paper. Degrease with MEK - not just any oily paint thinner. Get no solvent on the port. Leave the protective paper on the new port until it has set. Tape the area inside and out around the port where you do not want sealant. Clean up the excess before it sets.
DC-795 - google it. It takes a long time to set up completely and the port must be held in place for several days mechanically. I used several sand bags tied together over the cabin top to press the port to the hull along with some small wooden wedges to center the port. Get some double sided sticky spacers like they use on car windows and put them on the port to maintain a thick seal at the places where pressure would push it out. Clean all (and I mean all) of the old sealant. Sand with fine paper. Degrease with MEK - not just any oily paint thinner. Get no solvent on the port. Leave the protective paper on the new port until it has set. Tape the area inside and out around the port where you do not want sealant. Clean up the excess before it sets.
More of the same
I had a window replaced twice by sailboat shops, and both times it fell off. I called the factory and followed their instructions and three years later it looks the same as the day I (re)installed it. The main problem before was they use Sikaflex. DC795 is used on high-rise window buildings. I later heard on this forum that Hunter switched to a slightly different DC product (I don't have the number handy) that is used on aircraft windows. DC795 worked for me. If you're not careful you'll break the window taking it off. Some people saw through the old adhesive with piano wire. See the notes below. The factory said they don't clamp; they just push it on with a knee. I clamped because there was no way I was ever going to do this job again. I didn't seem to need soapy water to wipe off excess ooze. I did use the Dow 1205 primer that my local supplier suggested. The factory never mentioned it but for another $12 I figured why not... My notes from 2005: Best done when weather is cool and dry. Use monofilament 40lb test fishing line to cut through existing adhesive. It won't scratch the window like piano wire. Scrape old adhesive off hull and clean with acetone. Holding window in place, draw a pencil line around from the inside, then use 80 grit sandpaper to scuff up the window outside this line IE where the adhesive goes for bonding. Also scuff up the hull for adhesion. Wipe off dust with dry rag. Put 3/8" beads of DC795 on window and hull so there is good contact on both and press on. Factory doesn't even clamp. Use Ivory soapy water to clean 795 excess ooze. NOTE: Aqua Supply suggests using primer Dow 1205 on the substrates for proper adhesion.
I had a window replaced twice by sailboat shops, and both times it fell off. I called the factory and followed their instructions and three years later it looks the same as the day I (re)installed it. The main problem before was they use Sikaflex. DC795 is used on high-rise window buildings. I later heard on this forum that Hunter switched to a slightly different DC product (I don't have the number handy) that is used on aircraft windows. DC795 worked for me. If you're not careful you'll break the window taking it off. Some people saw through the old adhesive with piano wire. See the notes below. The factory said they don't clamp; they just push it on with a knee. I clamped because there was no way I was ever going to do this job again. I didn't seem to need soapy water to wipe off excess ooze. I did use the Dow 1205 primer that my local supplier suggested. The factory never mentioned it but for another $12 I figured why not... My notes from 2005: Best done when weather is cool and dry. Use monofilament 40lb test fishing line to cut through existing adhesive. It won't scratch the window like piano wire. Scrape old adhesive off hull and clean with acetone. Holding window in place, draw a pencil line around from the inside, then use 80 grit sandpaper to scuff up the window outside this line IE where the adhesive goes for bonding. Also scuff up the hull for adhesion. Wipe off dust with dry rag. Put 3/8" beads of DC795 on window and hull so there is good contact on both and press on. Factory doesn't even clamp. Use Ivory soapy water to clean 795 excess ooze. NOTE: Aqua Supply suggests using primer Dow 1205 on the substrates for proper adhesion.
A related question please gentlemen. My 280 windows are in pretty good
shape and there are no leaks. However, I've noticed some areas in the sealant on the exterior that are beginning to crack. The material still seems to be pliable - I guess the UV is finally starting to get to it. Do you guys think that I can trim a little valley into the cracked area and apply 795 to reseal? Will it adhere to the old 795?
shape and there are no leaks. However, I've noticed some areas in the sealant on the exterior that are beginning to crack. The material still seems to be pliable - I guess the UV is finally starting to get to it. Do you guys think that I can trim a little valley into the cracked area and apply 795 to reseal? Will it adhere to the old 795?
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