Does anyone know what type [and brand] of caulking was used to seal the fixed skylights on a 35.5? My port skylight developed a leak and I can see where the caulking bead is broken and want to repair it. The caulking Hunter used was grey in color. The products on the market that I have seen, only come in white and black. Fred Miller s/v M Squared
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Order from Hunter.
Fred: You can order the stuff from Hunter Marine. I think there was something about them changing the type of sealant that they were using (from the original).
Fred: You can order the stuff from Hunter Marine. I think there was something about them changing the type of sealant that they were using (from the original).
caulking for the skylights
The caulking material used is Dow-Corning 739. The best place to purchase the caulk is from Hunter. Call their parts dept. The tubes cost about $10. I did this project this spring. The skylights proved to be very difficult to remove since the old sealant had hardened like a rock. I chose not to try and force the skylights out of the opening. I used a knife and small screwdriver to gently excavate the old caulk around the edge of the skylight. I then applied tape along the skylight and the fiberglass edge of the opening. The next step wss to use the caulking gun and a plastic knife to level the caulk as it comes out of the gun. After the caulk sets up you can remove the tape and clean up any caulk residue with some acetone. One tube is all you need if you don't take the skylights out. We have had some significant rain here in the Northeast since this project was completed. To date there have been absolutely no leaks around the skylights. Good luck.
The caulking material used is Dow-Corning 739. The best place to purchase the caulk is from Hunter. Call their parts dept. The tubes cost about $10. I did this project this spring. The skylights proved to be very difficult to remove since the old sealant had hardened like a rock. I chose not to try and force the skylights out of the opening. I used a knife and small screwdriver to gently excavate the old caulk around the edge of the skylight. I then applied tape along the skylight and the fiberglass edge of the opening. The next step wss to use the caulking gun and a plastic knife to level the caulk as it comes out of the gun. After the caulk sets up you can remove the tape and clean up any caulk residue with some acetone. One tube is all you need if you don't take the skylights out. We have had some significant rain here in the Northeast since this project was completed. To date there have been absolutely no leaks around the skylights. Good luck.
"Bump-ons"
Hunter used what they call "bump-ons" under the edge of the skylights - small self-adhesive plastic squares about 1/2" square by about a 1/16" thick. Depending on how you remove the skylights the bump-ons could get damaged so ask for some at the same time you order the sealant. Sealant should be pladed at the but edge of the skylight as it is supposed to act like a thick rubber band. There should be no sealant under the skylight where the skylight rests on the coach roof as this defeats the elastic design of the bead. A dry boat is a good boat!
Hunter used what they call "bump-ons" under the edge of the skylights - small self-adhesive plastic squares about 1/2" square by about a 1/16" thick. Depending on how you remove the skylights the bump-ons could get damaged so ask for some at the same time you order the sealant. Sealant should be pladed at the but edge of the skylight as it is supposed to act like a thick rubber band. There should be no sealant under the skylight where the skylight rests on the coach roof as this defeats the elastic design of the bead. A dry boat is a good boat!
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