catastrophic bulkhead failure

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stx203

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Oct 15, 2009
58
Oday 25 Tall Rig Fin Keel Chesapeake - Middle River, Md
Maiden voyage on my new to me '77 OD25 tall rig-fin keel was from 18 miles north of Philadelphia on the Delaware River to the Middle River just north of Baltimore on the Chesapeake. Boat was in excellent condition, has original Vire 7 gas engine which worried me a bit but had been rebuilt 10 years ago. Sails new within last 5 years, running rigging, standing rigging, hull and deck in great shape. Spent a lot of time looking for soft spots and found none. No water stains on bulkheads and tapping on bulkhead and chainplates with hammer produced nice solid sounds.

She had been out of the water for 2 years while PO's estate was being settled. Did trip in two days. Motored and motorsailed 16 hours on day one. Engine purred like a kitty was making 6.5 knots through the water. Had knotmeter and GPS onboard to keep stats. Engine used about a gallon an hour which is what I expected.

Weather radio said day 2 would start to deteriorate around 2 pm with morning winds at 10-15 with 1-2 foot chop increasing to 15-20 and 3-4 foot chop by midday. She has a main and a 100% plastimo roller furling jib. Left early on day 2 and encountered the predicted chop but pulled out the jib and turned off the engine and the boat sailed great. Took on about a 10-15 degree heel and just cut through the chop beautifully. I tacked 4 or 5 times like this in bright sunshine and blue skies while eyeing a dark front way off to the west....but the sailing convinced me that this purchase of an older boat was just what I had planned for. When, without warning, while on a close reach the starboard chainplate shot up through the deck like a rocket and caused the mast to topple over the side and basically turtle with about a third of it sticking up out of the water suspended by the other three stays. Miraculously no one was hurt, I immediately checked the boat for water intrusion but found none, luckily had a portable radio since the masthead antenna was now 30' below water, donned a life jacket and called the coast guard since I was sitting in the shipping channel. Had towing insurance through BOATUS who responded within an hour. By the time they got there I had winched up the mast and had it alongside like a harpooned whale. The towboat captain towed me behinf Pooles Island to get out of the building chop and the two of us got he mast up on the bow and stern railing and secured for the 15 mile tow to my new marina. The marina hauled it out and did a quick look and thought the issue was water rotted bulkhead but needed to pull of the vinyl covering on the bulkhead to assess the damage. The mast was still in good shape. One section of the plastimo roller furler sleeve had snapped and looked liked it kinked the forestay but both sails were also undamaged. The yard felt they couldn't get to the full estimate for a week or so.

Thought the forum would be interested in the experience since everyone had been so helpful to my previous questions. I'll post again when I know more. Not sure how to have avoided this without tearing apart the bulkhead covering to determine the structural integrity of the underlying wood. Also looking for suggestions about the right way for this to be repaired in case the marina suggests some shortcuts or unnecessary replacements.

As always thanks for your ideas.
 

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Sep 25, 2008
992
Oday 25 Gibraltar
Wow! That will get your attention.
Looks like there were only two bolts on the chainplates?
Mast snapped off the bolts at the tabernacle. Solid cabin top.

Rich
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,760
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
That sucks and I am very glad no one was hurt or worse.. Your surveyor should have easily picked up on this. I would examine the report closely to see how he tested it for moisture and rot. A little layer of vinyl should not hide this type of damage from a good surveyor.
 

stx203

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Oct 15, 2009
58
Oday 25 Tall Rig Fin Keel Chesapeake - Middle River, Md
That sucks and I am very glad no one was hurt or worse.. Your surveyor should have easily picked up on this. I would examine the report closely to see how he tested it for moisture and rot. A little layer of vinyl should not hide this type of damage from a good surveyor.
what is the commonly accepted way for a surveyor to check for moisture contact....drilling into the bulkhead?....exposing the wood and using some kind of moisture meter?....obviously neither was done
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,760
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
what is the commonly accepted way for a surveyor to check for moisture contact....drilling into the bulkhead?....exposing the wood and using some kind of moisture meter?....obviously neither was done
Using soundings, a moisture meter are the primary methods and will easily show a defect like the OP had. If the soundings and meter show defects the Awl can be used to determine the level of "punky" in the wood. The awl is generally used in an area that cant be seen all that well like right at the edge of a chain plate facing the hull on the side you can't see. The vinyl will not prevent the moisture meter from working. Also any moisture found in the deck around the chain plates would have led any competent surveyor to examine the bulkheads more carefully. For the trained ear that one should not have even required a moisture meter.

I am amazed that any surveyor would have let that go without major documentation in the survey report but like doctors, mechanics, contractors and every other walk of life there are good ones and bad ones..

Pretty scary and very lucky no one was seriously hurt..
 
Dec 8, 2006
1,085
Oday 26 Starr, SC
water rotted bulkhead

Using soundings, a moisture meter are the primary methods and will easily show a defect like the OP had. If the soundings and meter show defects the Awl can be used to determine the level of "punky" in the wood. The awl is generally used in an area that cant be seen all that well like right at the edge of a chain plate facing the hull on the side you can't see. The vinyl will not prevent the moisture meter from working. Also any moisture found in the deck around the chain plates would have led any competent surveyor to examine the bulkheads more carefully. For the trained ear that one should not have even required a moisture meter.

I am amazed that any surveyor would have let that go without major documentation in the survey report but like doctors, mechanics, contractors and every other walk of life there are good ones and bad ones..

Pretty scary and very lucky no one was seriously hurt..
------------------------------- // -------------------------------

This has occurred before and has been discussed on this forum. I know one of the previous posters and have not seen him post in a couple of years. I know he has changed jobs, but he told a similar story. He rebuitl his O'Day 25 and I know he still sails it.

This is why many have replaced bulkheads and others have reinforced them.

From the damage I do not see all four bolts of the chain plates involved.

Others have added steel extension to make chain plate extend lower to insure good wood.

Again, check the archives.

Ed K
26
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
In a way you're lucky that your mast didn't bend in half like mine did out around Newport RI years ago. When I replaced my chainplates on my O'Day 222 with O'Day 25 chainplates, I used oak boards behind the main bulkhead to beef up my chainplates. I bolted the boards to the settees for extra strength. You can only see them in the V berth section. Later on when my chainplates started leaking, I had stainless steel covers made up and welded to the chainplates. These covers are also bolted through the deck with four bolts to each cover. You may want to consider doing something similar to your boat.
Joe
 

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Aug 20, 2010
28
ODay 222 South Lake Tahoe
In a way you're lucky that your mast didn't bend in half like mine did out around Newport RI years ago. When I replaced my chainplates on my O'Day 222 with O'Day 25 chainplates, I used oak boards behind the main bulkhead to beef up my chainplates. I bolted the boards to the settees for extra strength. You can only see them in the V berth section. Later on when my chainplates started leaking, I had stainless steel covers made up and welded to the chainplates. These covers are also bolted through the deck with four bolts to each cover. You may want to consider doing something similar to your boat.
Joe
Hi Joe,
sorry to 'butt in', but I had been looking for these photo's of your juiced up bulkhead/chainplate supports. I like it a lot!

Here are pics of my bulkhead chainplates/brackets:

It looks like someone had replaced them, as you can see there is an old hole where a bolt must have been...but you can't see it on aft side of bulkhead. The teak seems okay, if dry. But not really thick wood...The hardware seems pretty new, maybe it had been replaced as well.

What do you think? Would I have to drill new holes to accommodate the extra wood forward on the bulkhead, like you have added?

By the by, I had bought the boat from a widow, so she doesn't know much regarding all of this; she just was crew.

'Talk' to ya later!
 

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May 22, 2004
77
Oday 23 Bullock's Cove, RI
Thanks for sharing

Incredible - I was looking at my chainplates yesterday and the thought of them ripping out like that never occurred to me. Since I have had a mast failure due to a broken stay I know the pain to recovering the mast and sails while bobbing around in a swell.

Please keep us informed of how this get repaired etc.

I'm going to take a much much more careful look at the chainplates the next time I'm on board.

Any suggestions of what to look for? - the chainplates are clean and free of any rust - there is some discoloration on the starboard side due to water penetration but that has been fixed - the deck was solid with no signs of being punky. I had thought of unbolting them and inspecting the wood but I did not want to disturb the set-up (was that just an excuse or a reson!)

Thanks again for sharing.

James
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Incredible - I was looking at my chain plates yesterday and the thought of them ripping out like that never occurred to me. Since I have had a mast failure due to a broken stay I know the pain to recovering the mast and sails while bobbing around in a swell.

Please keep us informed of how this get repaired etc.

I'm going to take a much much more careful look at the chain plates the next time I'm on board.

Any suggestions of what to look for? - the chain plates are clean and free of any rust - there is some discoloration on the starboard side due to water penetration but that has been fixed - the deck was solid with no signs of being punky. I had thought of unbolting them and inspecting the wood but I did not want to disturb the set-up (was that just an excuse or a reson!)

Thanks again for sharing.

James
Hey James, welcome to the club! I lost my mast back in the mid 1990s out near Gould Island near Newport. My lower stay broke. I heard a loud snap and when I looked, my mast was gone. It all happened so fast. I loaded my bent mast, boom, sails and rigging and motored back to the Taunton River that day. Thank God my boat was insured. $2400.00 later I was back in business. When I look back though, it was the best thing that ever happened to my boat because it allowed me to make some changes to that mast for the better. The worker at Rig-Rite back then knew his stuff. I told him what I wanted for changes and he went right ahead and did them. It came out excellent! I installed the bottom half of the stainless steel hinged Tabernacle on a Teak block on the cabin and what a difference that made years later when I started using a Gin Pole to raise/lower my mast. My mast can be pinned while laying more horizontal now because of the height gained at the Tabernacle. I can honestly say that it worked out good for me. I only regret having him install that steaming light on my mast. I removed it two seasons ago and I don't miss it.
I wouldn't worry too much about your chain plates if everything looks pretty solid down below. If it really bothers you though, you could always beef up the plates with solid oak boards bolted to the V births in the forecastle like I did to mine. You may be able to install stainless steel bars instead of the Oak. My chain plates are the same as yours on account of my boat is a mongrel O'Day 222 with O'Day 25 parts. :D The only thing to do is go down below and observe the plates some day in a breeze of wind while someone is at the helm.
I sailed down to Dyer Island the other day to go beach combing but when I walked on the leeward side of the island, Penny and I encountered swarms of mosquitoes so we got the heck out of there quick and sailed down to Church Cove to spend the night. We had a nice cruise and I plan on getting back out there on the bay again this week if I can.
Joe
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Hi Joe,
sorry to 'butt in', but I had been looking for these photo's of your juiced up bulkhead/chainplate supports. I like it a lot!

Here are pics of my bulkhead chainplates/brackets:

It looks like someone had replaced them, as you can see there is an old hole where a bolt must have been...but you can't see it on aft side of bulkhead. The teak seems okay, if dry. But not really thick wood...The hardware seems pretty new, maybe it had been replaced as well.

What do you think? Would I have to drill new holes to accommodate the extra wood forward on the bulkhead, like you have added?

By the by, I had bought the boat from a widow, so she doesn't know much regarding all of this; she just was crew.

'Talk' to ya later!
Hi Michelle!
No problem! When you get a chance, could you take some pictures of the chain plates on the deck for me? Your boat is a year newer than mine and I don't know if they had made any significant changes to it. I know a girl in Columbus Oh who has a 1988 O'Day 222 with a similar stern pulpit to ours.
As far as beefing up the bulkhead in the V birth section goes; I don't think it would work with the type of chain plates and "L" brackets that are on there right now. What you have pictured are the "L" brackets that lend support to the chain plates on the deck. The worst case scenario with the stock "L" brackets is that they can crack at the bend and the chain plate on the deck will cause the fiberglass deck under it to bulge a little. Your's are probably not likely to do that provided that you stick with the 1/8" stay wires that are suppose to be on the O'Day 222. The rigger who worked on my new mast years ago, talked me into going with 5/32" lower stays and I believe that this caused the demise of my Starboard "L" bracket on my bulkhead. Just keep an eye on the "L" brackets and make sure that they don't crack at the bend. A slight bulge of the deck under the chain plate is a good indication that the "L" bracket has broke, too. It looks like the PO installed a more heavy duty "L" bracket on both sides of the bulkhead. They're probably OK Michelle.
Joe
 

stx203

.
Oct 15, 2009
58
Oday 25 Tall Rig Fin Keel Chesapeake - Middle River, Md
Update on progress of replacing bulkheads. My yard wanted $5000 to do the replacement, deck repair, roller furler repair. I am tackling the job myself. Boat has a Plastimo roller furler system which one of the extrusions snapped in half when the mast went over. Plastimo is a French company that is now owned by another French company, Navimo. Neither company responded to emails about replacement parts. I contacted about 30 rigging shops and saillofts looking for parts and found Bacon Sails in Annapolis willing to order the part. They were able to source the part and had it in within a month. They were very helpful, when I went to pick up the part I visited their Annapolis warehouse and they do a big consignment business in addition to new retail. Great pace to find old parts, must have had 4000 used sails in all sizes all catalogued by size and type and ready for inspection. Great shop.

I "de-constructed" the inside of the OD25 by totally removing the starboard vanity, sink and shelving, the port side head and cabinetry, to get access to the bulkheads (I'm doing both sides, even though only one let loose). Used a dremel tool to cut through the original glass tabbing that sealed the bulkheads to the hull. Removed the compression post and with the assist of my car jack to raise the cabin liner was able to slide out both bulkheads. Starboard side was easy it is smaller, port side only comes out once everything else is removed and then just barely fit out of the hatch.

Sourced Meranti (BS1088) Hydrotek 1/2" plywood from a guy in Egg Harbor, New Jersey. It is really hard to find in the MidAtlantic, I could find DouglasFir and Okume but chose Meranti for its rot resistence. It was $75/sheet and needed 2 sheets to get both bulkheads out of it without seaming the bulkheads. I used the old ones for patterns. I have coated each bulkhead with West system epoxy to insure no water intrusion and just this weekend slid them carefully back in place after grinding down all the remaining "tabbing" glass left on the hull interior. Now need to glass them to the hull.

Started the deck repair where the chainplate pulled through. Found about 8" of wet balsa core, so removed the deck skin and wet core till I got into dry core and am building the deck back up with new core and more West System. Total size of repair is about 7" x 10".

Am redoing all standing rigging while the mast is down. The forestay and backstay got kinked in the dismasting. Bought the rigging and new maststep parts from Rudy at D&R Marine.

Hope to be finished within a month and get back in the water for fall sailing.
 
Sep 25, 2008
992
Oday 25 Gibraltar
Good job! Been there. Sounds like you're doing it right. Make sure there's a gap between the edge of the bulkheads and the hull when you glass in the tabs.

Rich
 
Aug 20, 2010
28
ODay 222 South Lake Tahoe
My little bitty chainplates

Hi Michelle!
No problem! When you get a chance, could you take some pictures of the chain plates on the deck for me? Your boat is a year newer than mine and I don't know if they had made any significant changes to it. I know a girl in Columbus Oh who has a 1988 O'Day 222 with a similar stern pulpit to ours.
As far as beefing up the bulkhead in the V birth section goes; I don't think it would work with the type of chain plates and "L" brackets that are on there right now. What you have pictured are the "L" brackets that lend support to the chain plates on the deck. The worst case scenario with the stock "L" brackets is that they can crack at the bend and the chain plate on the deck will cause the fiberglass deck under it to bulge a little. Your's are probably not likely to do that provided that you stick with the 1/8" stay wires that are suppose to be on the O'Day 222. The rigger who worked on my new mast years ago, talked me into going with 5/32" lower stays and I believe that this caused the demise of my Starboard "L" bracket on my bulkhead. Just keep an eye on the "L" brackets and make sure that they don't crack at the bend. A slight bulge of the deck under the chain plate is a good indication that the "L" bracket has broke, too. It looks like the PO installed a more heavy duty "L" bracket on both sides of the bulkhead. They're probably OK Michelle.
Joe
Hi Joe,
hope your overnighter was great!
So took pics of chainplates:
I was really surprised when I first got boat and saw those little chainplates. I thought 'I'm depending on *those*?!'
Haven't seen any strange bulging or anything, nor anything suspicious with the brackets on the bulkhead. Does creak kind of a lot when rocking back in forth on mooring in waves..but don't see anything really bad.
Anyway, thanks for your input!
Regards,
MB
 

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Aug 20, 2010
28
ODay 222 South Lake Tahoe
Afterthought

Hi Michelle!
No problem! When you get a chance, could you take some pictures of the chain plates on the deck for me? Your boat is a year newer than mine and I don't know if they had made any significant changes to it. I know a girl in Columbus Oh who has a 1988 O'Day 222 with a similar stern pulpit to ours.

As an afterthought, the chainplates were installed, then the non-skid was applied, so that's why pics show a gap under chainplate. There's not really a gap; just the non-skid layer. If that makes sense..

MB
 
Dec 8, 2006
1,085
Oday 26 Starr, SC
Re: Thanks for sharing

James 19955,

Visually there may be no sign.

And the bulkhead failure starting this thread shows a painted bulkhead to hide water damage. The inter space between the deck and cabin ceiling offers very little strength. It is the chainplate to bulkhead and thru bolts that hold the chain plate to plywood bulkhead.

On most boat that I have seen there are four bolts to bulkhead. Maybe on the '77 there were only two bolts? I would get chain plates with four bolts and consider adding an extension lower into the bulkhead. Somebody posted such an extension on this forum in the past. It may have been made out of oak?

So, to evaluate the strength of your attachment look to chainplate to bulkhead attaching place. Look for soft or dry rot around bolts.

Even if everything looks ok, it would not hurt to soak bolt holes with epoxy to prevent water intrusion. And if there is minor water damage, that can be repaired without replacing bulkheads.

There are many ways to fix inner deck space. See past discussions on this forum and such authors as Don Casey.

Ed K
26
 
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