Catalina C320: Our S1 Raymarine Autopilot drops out under an easy 15k breeze (I presume thermal overload) Also when motoring in very reasonable conditions. Turning the unit off and back on reinstates the unit for a while. Rudder is easy to operate with the wheel. Wondering if anybody has had issues with the unit. Is the S1 adequate for the 320?
Catalina C320 S1 Autopilot overload?
- Thread starter Mybigblue
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Sail trim
In running a S1 for about a year now, it seems important to trim the sails so that the boat will almost self steer. If the boat heads up and the S1 goes out, move the traveler down some or let the main out. If the boat falls off, tighten up the main. It is not only the smaller auto pilots that have this problem larger units can also go out. I was on a larger and much heavier 42 foot boat this fall with a below deck unit. The captain had the main sheeted in tight at mid-ship. He kept asking why the auto pilot would not hold and went out when the wind picked up. After moving the traveler down we had no more problems.
In running a S1 for about a year now, it seems important to trim the sails so that the boat will almost self steer. If the boat heads up and the S1 goes out, move the traveler down some or let the main out. If the boat falls off, tighten up the main. It is not only the smaller auto pilots that have this problem larger units can also go out. I was on a larger and much heavier 42 foot boat this fall with a below deck unit. The captain had the main sheeted in tight at mid-ship. He kept asking why the auto pilot would not hold and went out when the wind picked up. After moving the traveler down we had no more problems.
Trim The Sails
First thought is your saying light conditions and it kicks out.
I only have had my auto kick out between 15 and 20 with choppy seas and all sails out on my Hunter 36,I could see the auto was working hard and it would kick out.
So I would trim my furling main until the auto seem to work less harder and the boat would not heel as much,trim the sails, less heeling smoother sailing and my speed would increase too.
I don't know about your Catalina but this is my second Hunter and they Hunters like to sail much better closer to 15%,anything over that I need to start trimming the sails,I am not saying I always do that,it really depends on all the sea and wind conditions,she will really fly with well trimmed sails and the auto likes it too.
Nick
First thought is your saying light conditions and it kicks out.
I only have had my auto kick out between 15 and 20 with choppy seas and all sails out on my Hunter 36,I could see the auto was working hard and it would kick out.
So I would trim my furling main until the auto seem to work less harder and the boat would not heel as much,trim the sails, less heeling smoother sailing and my speed would increase too.
I don't know about your Catalina but this is my second Hunter and they Hunters like to sail much better closer to 15%,anything over that I need to start trimming the sails,I am not saying I always do that,it really depends on all the sea and wind conditions,she will really fly with well trimmed sails and the auto likes it too.
Nick
It should not..
The S1 should not be overloading on a C-320. We now have about 1.5-2k nm on our S1 on a 17,500+/- pound vessel and it has performed flawlessly. It possibly sounds like something it the set up? This is a very robust wheel drive and we've had it run our boat well into the high 20's low 30's with no problems what so ever. Did you do a manual set up or just accept the pre-programmed "sailboat" setting?? Our boat is about 5k more in displacement so I am guessing this is a set up or defect issue? Even poor sail trim on a 320 should not be kicking it out...
Our S1 has never kicked out even beating into rough stuff and downwind in a decent following sea..
The S1 should not be overloading on a C-320. We now have about 1.5-2k nm on our S1 on a 17,500+/- pound vessel and it has performed flawlessly. It possibly sounds like something it the set up? This is a very robust wheel drive and we've had it run our boat well into the high 20's low 30's with no problems what so ever. Did you do a manual set up or just accept the pre-programmed "sailboat" setting?? Our boat is about 5k more in displacement so I am guessing this is a set up or defect issue? Even poor sail trim on a 320 should not be kicking it out...
Our S1 has never kicked out even beating into rough stuff and downwind in a decent following sea..
Check your wiring for proper size. Insufficient voltage will stall your autopilot, especially if you have the wheel-kit (which it sounds like you do). Improperly typed (non-tinned) wire will corrode leading to reduced capacity, so give it a good inspection. Best practice is a complete run to the unit (no splices).
Remember that there is a voltage drop over distance. Here's one handy chart:
http://bestboatwire.com/catalog/includes/languages/english/wire_gauge_chart.html
Remember that there is a voltage drop over distance. Here's one handy chart:
http://bestboatwire.com/catalog/includes/languages/english/wire_gauge_chart.html
Autopilots like to have fun, too
which is why Raymarine have the "Catalina Cocktail." Don't know if this stil applies to the newer units. The cocktail was so popular at one time it always came up on a Google. The cocktail is a series of settings, as Maine Sail mentioned, that are somewhat different than the standard factory settings.
Most of the time too much sail will simply overwhelm regular recreational autopilots.
which is why Raymarine have the "Catalina Cocktail." Don't know if this stil applies to the newer units. The cocktail was so popular at one time it always came up on a Google. The cocktail is a series of settings, as Maine Sail mentioned, that are somewhat different than the standard factory settings.
Most of the time too much sail will simply overwhelm regular recreational autopilots.
Could be Battery Voltage
Another possible cause relates to a low voltage condition at the control unit. I have a Catalina 320 with a raymarine autopilot as well. I noticed that the unit sometimes reverts to standby mode (which can be quite disconcerting if you don't happen to be near the wheel). Upon further review I noted (1) this never seemed to be happening when motoring or motor sailing with the autopilot and (2) it generally seemed to occur when I had some other significant battery drain such as the refrigeration system. When I was able to get the issue to occur, I found that placing the battery switch in both mode (allowing current from both batteries to power the unit) fixed it.
I did a little research and found the following support issue at raymarine's website:
http://raymarine.custhelp.com/cgi-b...2VhcmNoX3RleHQ9YXV0b3BpbG90&p_li=&p_topview=1
In case that link doesn't work it says in a nutshell:
"In order to keep everything functioning correctly, there is a minimum threshold voltage the boat's electrical system must be able to deliver to the course computer, typically about 11.5 volts DC (for a course computer intended for 12V electrical systems.) If the power falls below the minimum acceptable level the course computer will disengage the drive unit (the heaviest electrical load) to prevent damaging the course computers internal power supply components. Was the autopilot to continue operating in a low-voltage situation, permanent and costly damage could occur in the course computer."
They go on to discuss possible causes but my current thought is that the cabling length and/or guage may be part of the culprit. I plan to take a look at increasing the wire size to see if that reduces the voltage drop enough.
Another possible cause relates to a low voltage condition at the control unit. I have a Catalina 320 with a raymarine autopilot as well. I noticed that the unit sometimes reverts to standby mode (which can be quite disconcerting if you don't happen to be near the wheel). Upon further review I noted (1) this never seemed to be happening when motoring or motor sailing with the autopilot and (2) it generally seemed to occur when I had some other significant battery drain such as the refrigeration system. When I was able to get the issue to occur, I found that placing the battery switch in both mode (allowing current from both batteries to power the unit) fixed it.
I did a little research and found the following support issue at raymarine's website:
http://raymarine.custhelp.com/cgi-b...2VhcmNoX3RleHQ9YXV0b3BpbG90&p_li=&p_topview=1
In case that link doesn't work it says in a nutshell:
"In order to keep everything functioning correctly, there is a minimum threshold voltage the boat's electrical system must be able to deliver to the course computer, typically about 11.5 volts DC (for a course computer intended for 12V electrical systems.) If the power falls below the minimum acceptable level the course computer will disengage the drive unit (the heaviest electrical load) to prevent damaging the course computers internal power supply components. Was the autopilot to continue operating in a low-voltage situation, permanent and costly damage could occur in the course computer."
They go on to discuss possible causes but my current thought is that the cabling length and/or guage may be part of the culprit. I plan to take a look at increasing the wire size to see if that reduces the voltage drop enough.
You may be experiencing another device starting up. When a reefer unit starts, it draws a very high current load for a short period of time, and if your engine is not spinning the alternator, the battery voltage will drop below threshold.
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