I went to start my Yanmar YGM30F last weekend after a sail and nothing happened. I turned the key and the usual beep was missing. The start button did nothing. Batteries were charged and showing 12.7 volts. Everything else electrical was working. 15 mins later I tried again and it started and ran normally. Anybody had the same thing happen or have any ideas what might have caused this? This is the second time it has done this. Last time 9 months ago.
Catalina 320 start problem
- Thread starter Brucegra
- Start date
Check & clean the cable loom connector contacts and the spade-lug white(?) wire (from connector) that goes to the solenoid. It's usually bad contacts from these.
Ken Y
Ken Y
It will get progressively worse with time. It is a common malady as the wiring between the starter solenoid and the control panel ages and its resistance increases. You can go to the archives as there is ample information about this problem. The most common solutions are to add an auxiliary solenoid or to rewire a parallel circuit with new wiring. My personal preference would be to add and wire a 2nd Button by the companionway. When the one at the control doesn't work just step over to the companionway and start the engine. A short run and new wiring ensure the 2nd button will always work. When adding a 2nd button it is always good to install and interrupt switch with it and draw power from a fused circuit.
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I've installed an Emergency Start Switch(Keyless) inside cabin as back-up against wiring issue or lost Key.
Ken
Just replaced my start switch for the same issue. I wanted to make it "keyless" but got it a bit of a hurry and had to use what I could find locally.
So I thus was forced into the wrong switch. It has ACC, OFF, ON, START settings rather than just the typical OFF/ON. So I paralleled the starter button to the START setting (both work) and found out that ACC is a feature - I can leave the keys in the ignition but they won't fall out while sailing.
But as above, the push on connectors can be bad, the wiring can be getting corroded and increasing resistance, etc.. Easy to tell if you just jump the switch and see if the problem persists.
So I thus was forced into the wrong switch. It has ACC, OFF, ON, START settings rather than just the typical OFF/ON. So I paralleled the starter button to the START setting (both work) and found out that ACC is a feature - I can leave the keys in the ignition but they won't fall out while sailing.
But as above, the push on connectors can be bad, the wiring can be getting corroded and increasing resistance, etc.. Easy to tell if you just jump the switch and see if the problem persists.
That damn key switch. I have the on/off only model. Completely useless and the key does fall out. Next Spring I am going to install a simple toggle switch in place of the key switch. When I leave the boat in my slip the start battery switch is off and locked inside the cabin, so no need for the loose key switch in the cockpit.
Do what Roy said- I also ran a new #10 wire from starter to the button on my panel- easy DIY project that even I could do and its been 100%effective
Had this problem with my Yanmar 2GM20. Start wire had already been replaced. I installed a start relay and that has fixed the problem. Check out Mainsails advice on how to install one. Only 10 bucks for the relay. I used an old style Ford type relay.
You did mention that when you turned the key switch to ON, you didn't get the usual beeping. This would indicate the alarm circuits, along with the start circuit aren't working. I had the same problem on my C310, and it was a bad key switch, so it might be worthwhile to test the key switch with a multimeter.
About 3 weeks ago, I've decided to run a 14awg wire from Starter Push Button to the starter Solenoid (in parallel to the stock cable loom). To my surprise, the smallish screw of the solenoid spade securing the original ring lug from start button was loose!! Could that be the cause of poor start when battery voltage was low!!??
The connection was hidden inside the insulation cap plus visually blocked by thick positive cable.
After this fixed, I let my battery drained down to 60%+ and engine start no issue. Before this, engine shows sign of difficult start when battery was drawn down to 70%.
Could that loose screw be the problem all these years? Even if it is, I'll leave the additional wire in place and call it good & done.
Ken Y
The connection was hidden inside the insulation cap plus visually blocked by thick positive cable.
After this fixed, I let my battery drained down to 60%+ and engine start no issue. Before this, engine shows sign of difficult start when battery was drawn down to 70%.
Could that loose screw be the problem all these years? Even if it is, I'll leave the additional wire in place and call it good & done.
Ken Y
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