We have taken our 1989 Catalina 30 out into the Blue Pacific for the first time ever. In the process of sailing it up the Washington Coast with the rail in the water, rust stains have started to show on the white hull glass around the stansions, bow pulpit and rear rail. A sailing friend said that stainless steel isn't stainless! does anyone know if during the late 80s if some inferior type of steel was used for the rails or maybe it is the bolts that would explain the rusting? This boat has always been in fresh water, but I don't see to many other boats with the rust from a similar condition. I don't see rust at any of the welds or on the stainless steel it's self. So does anyone have a good idea where this could be coming from or causing it. PS I understand "oxalic" sp. acid will remove the rust from fiberglass but I would like to figure out a solution rather then having to remove the rust every so often and then wax the hull again.
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RonD
Rusty Stainless
I had a few stanchion bolts corrode after the first year on my new C320. Catalina paid to replace them, and the guy at the yard explained the problem thusly: Stainless steel hardware is mass produced, often off-shore. One molten batch will produce tens of thousands SS bolts, nuts, washers, etc. The molten mix, and the widgets made from it, are only sampled to ensure adherance to standards. Bottom line: some bad ones can slip through. Reason: the molten mix (the iron, carbon, plus alloy additives) in a batch isn't always uniformly stirred so any product(s) made from that batch will have a small percentage of flawed pieces that do not exhibit true SS corrosion resistance. This is because, in fact, they don't have the same alloy content -- those pieces aren't really "stainless steel". The better the quality control at the furnace, the better the quality of the raw material going into the end-product. QC costs money, so it isn't suprising that some manufacturers will try to get by with the bare minimum to maximize profit. There are products to remove minor corrosion from stainless steel. You might consult some of the various books about boat cleaning & maintenance. That said, if the stanchions, mounts, and/or hardware are showing serious rust, you should consider replacing them. --RonD
I had a few stanchion bolts corrode after the first year on my new C320. Catalina paid to replace them, and the guy at the yard explained the problem thusly: Stainless steel hardware is mass produced, often off-shore. One molten batch will produce tens of thousands SS bolts, nuts, washers, etc. The molten mix, and the widgets made from it, are only sampled to ensure adherance to standards. Bottom line: some bad ones can slip through. Reason: the molten mix (the iron, carbon, plus alloy additives) in a batch isn't always uniformly stirred so any product(s) made from that batch will have a small percentage of flawed pieces that do not exhibit true SS corrosion resistance. This is because, in fact, they don't have the same alloy content -- those pieces aren't really "stainless steel". The better the quality control at the furnace, the better the quality of the raw material going into the end-product. QC costs money, so it isn't suprising that some manufacturers will try to get by with the bare minimum to maximize profit. There are products to remove minor corrosion from stainless steel. You might consult some of the various books about boat cleaning & maintenance. That said, if the stanchions, mounts, and/or hardware are showing serious rust, you should consider replacing them. --RonD
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Harry
Stainless; not stain proof
There are many many grades of stainless. Alloying elements are typically chrome, nickel, and moly., and each combination gives different corrosion resistance. The 300 series is the most popular. T-303 is best for machining, but poorest in corrosion resistance. T-304 is the most common grade with "good" corrision resist. T-316 has the highest resistance, the most expensive of the 300 series, and the hardest to machine (fasteners need to be machined in some fashion). Add welding and a new set of problems evolves. Put it in a salt water enviornment and multiply the problems. MOST production boat companies use 303 & 304 due to cost considerations, and usually with satisfactory results. If the fitting manufacture ran steel then switched to S/S without cleaning the eqipment properly, this could explain why you are seeing rust, although I doubt it due to the time involved. If in fact your stainless is "rusting", and wasn't caused by wire brushing, or some other process that imparted impurities, you can cure the problem by passivating the metal. It's easier than you may think. I don't have the website name, but if you do a google search "passivating + stainless" you'll find the info. The process allows the alloying elements to re-oxidize the surface making it stain-less (not stainproof)again. It's as simple as coating with a particular acid and rinsing. One more point; If stainless comes in "prolonged" contact (a few days)with steel, the the iron elements in steel will react with the stainless and you will see rust. Good Luck
There are many many grades of stainless. Alloying elements are typically chrome, nickel, and moly., and each combination gives different corrosion resistance. The 300 series is the most popular. T-303 is best for machining, but poorest in corrosion resistance. T-304 is the most common grade with "good" corrision resist. T-316 has the highest resistance, the most expensive of the 300 series, and the hardest to machine (fasteners need to be machined in some fashion). Add welding and a new set of problems evolves. Put it in a salt water enviornment and multiply the problems. MOST production boat companies use 303 & 304 due to cost considerations, and usually with satisfactory results. If the fitting manufacture ran steel then switched to S/S without cleaning the eqipment properly, this could explain why you are seeing rust, although I doubt it due to the time involved. If in fact your stainless is "rusting", and wasn't caused by wire brushing, or some other process that imparted impurities, you can cure the problem by passivating the metal. It's easier than you may think. I don't have the website name, but if you do a google search "passivating + stainless" you'll find the info. The process allows the alloying elements to re-oxidize the surface making it stain-less (not stainproof)again. It's as simple as coating with a particular acid and rinsing. One more point; If stainless comes in "prolonged" contact (a few days)with steel, the the iron elements in steel will react with the stainless and you will see rust. Good Luck
J
Jack Swords
Try FSR
Our Cat 30 (1984) has lived in sea water its entire life. Certain crevices and protected areas do rust. The part that rusts, if in contact with the deck or hull, will stain the hull. Walking the docks, you will see it is a common situation. A product called FSR, a gel, will remove the rust from the stainless and the deck/hull. I apply it with a toothbrush just prior to washing the boat to the rust spots, then clean the boat. No more rust. Weekly cleaning using FSR first on any stain, then the usual washing makes the boat rust free. It will get the rust from the crevices, and as a gel, will hang on vertical surfaces. It is a product made for boats and available from West Marine. It has caused no damage to fiberglass or stainless (or my hands). Wax what you can after using.
Our Cat 30 (1984) has lived in sea water its entire life. Certain crevices and protected areas do rust. The part that rusts, if in contact with the deck or hull, will stain the hull. Walking the docks, you will see it is a common situation. A product called FSR, a gel, will remove the rust from the stainless and the deck/hull. I apply it with a toothbrush just prior to washing the boat to the rust spots, then clean the boat. No more rust. Weekly cleaning using FSR first on any stain, then the usual washing makes the boat rust free. It will get the rust from the crevices, and as a gel, will hang on vertical surfaces. It is a product made for boats and available from West Marine. It has caused no damage to fiberglass or stainless (or my hands). Wax what you can after using.
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Scott
TripLog
Hello Roger, Also a Cat30 owner, would like to travel down river and north but everyone looks sideways at me when I bring it up. Would like to hear more about your travels when you have time....... Scott
Hello Roger, Also a Cat30 owner, would like to travel down river and north but everyone looks sideways at me when I bring it up. Would like to hear more about your travels when you have time....... Scott
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David
Rail buried on a C30?
I enjoy a good sail as much as anyone, but sounds like a reef might have been in order if you didn't have one in.
I enjoy a good sail as much as anyone, but sounds like a reef might have been in order if you didn't have one in.
C
Connie
Rusty stanchions
We have rust on the stansions and periodically have to clean it off using some wadding. I was told that stainless is not totally pure and that some rust will occur because of the impurities.
We have rust on the stansions and periodically have to clean it off using some wadding. I was told that stainless is not totally pure and that some rust will occur because of the impurities.
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