Catalina 27 Traveler upgrade questions

[sashaproctor]

I've just pulled the traveler apart on my 1976 Catalina 27 to refurbish the teak that it sits on and have come to the realization that the traveler its self is not worth re installing. So my question is two fold.

1. Can i get input on wether i should buy a replacement for the standard aft traveler system or....

2. Should i up grade to the mid boom traveler?

Which are the best options for both scenarios? Links would be helpful. If I were to go with the mid boom style how difficult is it to re rig everything and has anyone done a video on this specific upgrade?

Thanks in advance!!

-Sasha

 

[FastOlson]

An aft traveler is better for sailing and a mid boom version is better for party time at the dock. Also, if changing to the mid boom setup be aware the you are quadrupling the load (approx) on the attachment point. No problem if the section was designed for that point load, but yours was probably not.
As for traveler hardware, Garhauer probably has what you need. They have equipped zillions of Catalinas of all sizes. Nice people building sturdy hardware.
Loren

 

[gavinbailey]

I replaced the traveler on my 1976 Catalina recently with a Garhauer aft traveler kit from Catalina Direct which fitted perfectly. I checked the existing hole measurements of the existing track and it turned out that their standard track fitted perfectly. I used larger stainless steel bolts as the standard ones looked a little small and were bent anyway. Was pleased with the end result which was far higher quality than the original kit.

 

[Joe]

I don't think it's worth the added expense to add mid boom system. You must install risers and use high load track. In addition, you should increase the capacity of your existing mainsheet tackle and create a minimum of two attachment points on the boom because you lose the leverage advantage of the end boom set up.

After all that, you won't be able to play the traveler while steering unless you modify the mid boom control line set up.

If you leave the end boom set up, all you need to do is replace the track and car... assuming the teak base is okay.... You can add some extra purchase to the traveler at a nominal expense if you purchase the right car. You can use normal strength track, a small boat car, a few blocks and cleats, 5/16" control lines are more than adequate... I have one continuous loop control line, rather than two separate lines that was OEM. If you go with Harken, the track, car, blocks and cleats will cost less than $400. If you have the basic "T" track you won't be able to use harken equipment... so you might check out the garhauer stuff. I do not recommend buying a pre built set with the cleats integrated into the track end... takes up way to much space in the end boom arrangement. Mid boom you will want the cleats closer to the cockpit. Here's my very simple set up... I've changed it a little over the years... but design is same.

 

[nightowle]

I agree, end boom is the way to go on a 27' tiller steered sloop. Tried and true, comfortable and easy.

 

[The Garbone]

I would do mid boom if money is not an issue.

I like not having to turn aft to fiddle with a traveler that only goes 18" to 20" inches port or starboard from center. Really not that effective.

With mid boom one a beam reach it can be, traveler centered, tack,traveler to leeward. With end boom it is either 1-travelers already centered so just sheet in tack and sheet out. 2- traveler in, sheet in tack, traveler out sheet out. 3- watch the boom, swing, slam.

I like using the sheet less and traveler more.

 

[jwing]

Here's my very simple set up... I've changed it a little over the years... but design is same.
View attachment 125151

Joe: Do you ever have trouble pulling your traveler above the centerline when it is loaded (assuming that you are sitting on the windward side)? It seems like your rig would make that an awkward arm motion.

If you could get any configuration that you wanted just by snapping your fingers, would you rather have something like this:

"This system features cleats on adjustable arms that can be angled. On flush deck boats face cleats down the length of the track. On boats with seat backs angle the cleats forward or aft."

 

[Joe]

Absolutely not. I pull the line forward... and up.. as noted by the angle of the cleat. If you're sitting on the coaming you would never be able to adjust the traveler with the car you pictured. First of all, the car mounted cleats take up a lot of precious travel room. Second, your hand has to be down on the track to cleat the line... so you couldn't even get the car close to the track end. Third, you want the control line running to you... not to the end of the track. Fourth... if you turn the cleats forward on the car... the control lines will end up on the cockpit floor most of the time.

If you look at the picture I posted earlier.. you'll see the cleat is angled forward and up... to where I sit while driving. For racing, you might relocate the control line for the mainsail trimmer's convenience.

To manage windward sheeting situations, I have a continuous line traveler control... rather than two separate ones....It works a lot better, especially if you want to un cleat the leeward side... and pull the car to windward.

The two cars pictured would work well... the second one has the sheaves and eye strap on a swivel.... better for a Cat 27... but costs $100 more than the one on the left. The line would anchor a couple inches behind the track end... that gives the car clearance to snug up against the cockpit wall.... through the car's sheave.. then back to an "upright" block mounted sideways... again, mounted so it doesn't interfere with the car... then on to the cleat.... the line continues over the tiller to the other side and reverses itself.

I got the continuous line idea from a sailing tips handbook.... keeps both lines handy.