Cat30 mast rewire -compression post

[jerryf609]

Is the teak compression post hollow?

I am going to run new wires in the mast including cable for new wind transducer.

I am also putting in new depth speed temp transducer.

I need to route the 2 transducer cables to the same ITC-5 through which I get the signals to the Seatalkng network. I also need a way to disconnect and reconnect the mast wires at the mast base.

Can I route wires through the compression post?

Suggestions welcome.

 

[sail sfbay]

Not sure..............could drill a pilot hole through your teak compression post to confirm if hollow or solid.

 

[Justin_NSA]

How are your other wires coming down thru the deck? Lights?

 

[Ward H]

Is the teak compression post hollow?

I am going to run new wires in the mast including cable for new wind transducer.

I am also putting in new depth speed temp transducer.

I need to route the 2 transducer cables to the same ITC-5 through which I get the signals to the Seatalkng network. I also need a way to disconnect and reconnect the mast wires at the mast base.

Can I route wires through the compression post?

Suggestions welcome.

Yes it is And yes you can. Just use the existing wires to pull through the new wires.

Your boat is an earlier model than mine though, so check in the bilge where the existing wires come out below the post. If they come out from a plastic pipe from under the post, you should be good to go.

When I wanted to run a new vhf cable from the mast base to nav station on my 93 C30 I attached the new cable to the old and pulled it through the compression post. Came through very easy.
I know there is a plastic pipe wire chase coming out of the deck and it curves into the bilge under the compression post. Not sure if the pipe extends all the way through the post but the vhf cable came through so easy I believe it does.

For the deck to mast connections I used a trailer wire harness plug for the 12v lighting wires. That’s what was there and I replaced with same.
Airmar makes a barrel shaped connector for splicing transducer cable wires that I used for the wind transducer cable. I found it at iMarine.com.

I sure wouldn’t drill an exploratory hole through the compression post. Too easy to nick a wire that you weren’t planning on replacing.

I’ll try to find some pics later this am.

 

[jerryf609]

Yes it is And yes you can. Just use the existing wires to pull through the new wires.

Your boat is an earlier model than mine though, so check in the bilge where the existing wires come out below the post. If they come out from a plastic pipe from under the post, you should be good to go.

When I wanted to run a new vhf cable from the mast base to nav station on my 93 C30 I attached the new cable to the old and pulled it through the compression post. Came through very easy.
I know there is a plastic pipe wire chase coming out of the deck and it curves into the bilge under the compression post. Not sure if the pipe extends all the way through the post but the vhf cable came through so easy I believe it does.

For the deck to mast connections I used a trailer wire harness plug for the 12v lighting wires. That’s what was there and I replaced with same.
Airmar makes a barrel shaped connector for splicing transducer cable wires that I used for the wind transducer cable. I found it at iMarine.com.

I sure wouldn’t drill an exploratory hole through the compression post. Too easy to nick a wire that you weren’t planning on replacing.

I’ll try to find some pics later this am.

Thank you Ward. I appreciate you. And pics would be great if you find some.

 

[jerryf609]

Also Ward, was the barrel connector a plug and unplug type? I'm still looking for it at Imarine.

 

[jerryf609]

Yes it is And yes you can. Just use the existing wires to pull through the new wires.

Your boat is an earlier model than mine though, so check in the bilge where the existing wires come out below the post. If they come out from a plastic pipe from under the post, you should be good to go.

When I wanted to run a new vhf cable from the mast base to nav station on my 93 C30 I attached the new cable to the old and pulled it through the compression post. Came through very easy.
I know there is a plastic pipe wire chase coming out of the deck and it curves into the bilge under the compression post. Not sure if the pipe extends all the way through the post but the vhf cable came through so easy I believe it does.

For the deck to mast connections I used a trailer wire harness plug for the 12v lighting wires. That’s what was there and I replaced with same.
Airmar makes a barrel shaped connector for splicing transducer cable wires that I used for the wind transducer cable. I found it at iMarine.com.

I sure wouldn’t drill an exploratory hole through the compression post. Too easy to nick a wire that you weren’t planning on replacing.

I’ll try to find some pics later this am.

Ward, Is this the type connector for the transducer wires you used? Of course with the matching female part.

Airmar CX-116 Transducer Plug 6-Pin

Airmar CX-116 Transducer Plug 6-Pin

www.imarineusa.com

 

[Ward H]

Here is what I used. In Line Cable Splice
I figure you don't drop the mast that often and you definitely want a good connection for the wind transducer so I used this.

I couldn't find any photos that would help.

 

[jerryf609]

Here is what I used. In Line Cable Splice
I figure you don't drop the mast that often and you definitely want a good connection for the wind transducer so I used this.

I couldn't find any photos that would help.

Excellent. Thanks Ward.

 

[Ward H]

Here is a drawing I did to help with the mast rewiring. I did it to keep track of the wire colors because the new wire I ran up the mast did not match what was there originally.

Also, look for a line of rivits running up the outside of the mast. Probably a rivet every two to three feet. If they are there you probably have a plastic pipe running up the inside of the mast as a wire chase. All you wires were run inside this pipe to keep them from being entangled with my internal halyards. Also keeps the wires from slapping around inside the mast.

Pretty sure you'll find the line of rivets running up the front of the mast, if it is like mine.

 

[weekendrken]

There’s alternate (and IMO) ultimately better options than “trailer plugs” and connectors. A few C30-ers have done a terminal strip connection that eliminates ALL corrosion/failures.

 

[jerryf609]

Here is a drawing I did to help with the mast rewiring. I did it to keep track of the wire colors because the new wire I ran up the mast did not match what was there originally.

Also, look for a line of rivits running up the outside of the mast. Probably a rivet every two to three feet. If they are there you probably have a plastic pipe running up the inside of the mast as a wire chase. All you wires were run inside this pipe to keep them from being entangled with my internal halyards. Also keeps the wires from slapping around inside the mast.

Pretty sure you'll find the line of rivets running up the front of the mast, if it is like mine.

View attachment 190030

Thanks.

 

[jerryf609]

There’s alternate (and IMO) ultimately better options than “trailer plugs” and connectors. A few C30-ers have done a terminal strip connection that eliminates ALL corrosion/failures.

What is the terminal strip connection? Does it unplug easily when you need to unstrp the mast?

 

[Ward H]

On this I actually disagree with Ken, one of the few times, that trailer plugs are not suitable for this use.
Here is a link to terminal strips on Amazon Terminal Strips.
Yes you can use them. A bit more work and another way to do it. And you have to make sure they are insulated when all done.
The trailer plug will be fine for the light wiring. There is very little amp draw so it won't overheat and it will remain relatively dry. Just push it up into the mast a bit. Put a drip loop in the wire so water doesn't run down the wiring directly into/onto the plug.
The Airmar Barrel Splice is better for the fine wires of the transducer cable. It is a bit finicky to wire but it makes a weatherproof connection.

Many ways to make the connections. A popular saying is Your Boat, Your Choice (YBYC)

Do you expect to drop your mast often? If so I would find a multi pin plug like in the first link you showed me on iMarine instead of the barrel connector. That would probably work just as well.
That barrel splice connector is recommended by Airmar for splicing transducer cables which are frequently run in bilge areas. I used one to replace a rusted terminal strip with corroded wires that was in a sealed box in my bilge. That fixed my wind transducer which wasn't working when I bought my boat.

Do you have internal halyards? If so, you can pull out the halyard exit blocks and access your wiring and connections without taking your mast down.

 

[weekendrken]

Those strips are not how they did it.

I said "better" -- (not that RV plugs won't work or weren't suitable.)

 

[jerryf609]

On this I actually disagree with Ken, one of the few times, that trailer plugs are not suitable for this use.
Here is a link to terminal strips on Amazon Terminal Strips.
Yes you can use them. A bit more work and another way to do it. And you have to make sure they are insulated when all done.
The trailer plug will be fine for the light wiring. There is very little amp draw so it won't overheat and it will remain relatively dry. Just push it up into the mast a bit. Put a drip loop in the wire so water doesn't run down the wiring directly into/onto the plug.
The Airmar Barrel Splice is better for the fine wires of the transducer cable. It is a bit finicky to wire but it makes a weatherproof connection.

Many ways to make the connections. A popular saying is Your Boat, Your Choice (YBYC)

Do you expect to drop your mast often? If so I would find a multi pin plug like in the first link you showed me on iMarine instead of the barrel connector. That would probably work just as well.
That barrel splice connector is recommended by Airmar for splicing transducer cables which are frequently run in bilge areas. I used one to replace a rusted terminal strip with corroded wires that was in a sealed box in my bilge. That fixed my wind transducer which wasn't working when I bought my boat.

Do you have internal halyards? If so, you can pull out the halyard exit blocks and access your wiring and connections without taking your mast down.

Thanks Ward. Yes I have internal halyards. I used that access last year to install a u bolt. I'm planning on getting the mast pulled next spring to facilitate installation of new LED lights adding a deck light or two on the spreaders, and the wind transducer, and a loud speaker, as well as new wires. I typically won't drop the mast annually but I want the ability to unplug the wires easily. I think with low draw LEDs, the new wire with a trailer plug will work fine. I'll pick up a multi pin plug for the transducer wires.

You have been very helpful. Thank you.

 

[jerryf609]

Those strips are not how they did it.

I said "better" -- (not that RV plugs won't work or weren't suitable.)

Thanks for your input on my project. I appreciate getting advice.