Our 94 Hunter 26 is powered by a 94 Suzuki 8 HP Oil Injected outboard. I've changed the plugs - but it still idles roughly (will die at the most inopportune moments - such as coming into a dock against the wind with a lot of on-lookers around):{ - not fun. I was thinking perhaps the carburetor needs attention. What do the members of this forum do to maintain their carburetors? a. Ignore them? b. Take them to a professional for service? c. Rebuild them yourself? d. Punt? Tom Grass Grasshopper II 94 H-26 #174
Carburetor
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Take it to a Pro.
With the advent of ethanol/alcohol mixes, these are wreaking havoc with gas engines and their fuel tanks. Take it to a pro for a professional cleaning and tune-up. Then talk to him about the effects that he has found.
With the advent of ethanol/alcohol mixes, these are wreaking havoc with gas engines and their fuel tanks. Take it to a pro for a professional cleaning and tune-up. Then talk to him about the effects that he has found.
good suggestion if you do not know how to
Over the years I have seen to many do it yourself mechanics trying to dissasemble a carburetor and bring the pieces to me. It just ran the bill up figuring where they went back and at $75 an hour, hey that works for me but not so good on the pocket book. Find a mechanic that is good and stick with him if you do not know what you are doing.
Over the years I have seen to many do it yourself mechanics trying to dissasemble a carburetor and bring the pieces to me. It just ran the bill up figuring where they went back and at $75 an hour, hey that works for me but not so good on the pocket book. Find a mechanic that is good and stick with him if you do not know what you are doing.
Small carbs
If someone can't take apart and put back together something as simple as the carb on an 8hp motor, I can't believe they can manage to sail a boat.
If someone can't take apart and put back together something as simple as the carb on an 8hp motor, I can't believe they can manage to sail a boat.
Pete
No two people are the same. I have seen many who can read and operate electronics but know very little on how to install and vice versa as an example. Some folks are computer savy but some like me barely get by. Some are mechanical inclined but others are not. I know of a politican in Washington who is very good in politics and sailing but squat in repairs. To each his own on thoughts but just one other side of the coin.
No two people are the same. I have seen many who can read and operate electronics but know very little on how to install and vice versa as an example. Some folks are computer savy but some like me barely get by. Some are mechanical inclined but others are not. I know of a politican in Washington who is very good in politics and sailing but squat in repairs. To each his own on thoughts but just one other side of the coin.
Sorry
Sorry, that came out wrong. What I meant was: The carb on an engine that small is a lot simpler than most of the other systems on a sailboat. It probably only has a couple of moving parts. And the furthest most people would go in trying to fix it is to clean it out and replace the parts that come in the rebuild kit. You don't really have to know how it works to do that. Get a manual, take lots of pictures, and it'll be easy to put back together. Getting a little piece of gunk stuck in the carb isn't that unusual, so it's a good thing to learn how to do. Once you do it at home, you'll be able to do it even while underway, if you have to.
Sorry, that came out wrong. What I meant was: The carb on an engine that small is a lot simpler than most of the other systems on a sailboat. It probably only has a couple of moving parts. And the furthest most people would go in trying to fix it is to clean it out and replace the parts that come in the rebuild kit. You don't really have to know how it works to do that. Get a manual, take lots of pictures, and it'll be easy to put back together. Getting a little piece of gunk stuck in the carb isn't that unusual, so it's a good thing to learn how to do. Once you do it at home, you'll be able to do it even while underway, if you have to.
motors and gas
I have Nissan 4 stroke 5 hp on my 240. years ago I had a similar problem. the motor would not run for any length of time. I took it to the local Nissan repair center. He said the valves had carboned up and advised me to use nothing but BP hi-test gas-period. When I take the boat out of the water, I disconnect the gas line and allow it to run while before I put the boat on the trailer. Since I have started doing this, I haven't had any problems. Also, check the vent cap on the tank. do yourself a favor, unless you know exactly what you are doing, spend the money and get a professional mechanic to look at it. It may cost some money and time, but it is well worth it.
I have Nissan 4 stroke 5 hp on my 240. years ago I had a similar problem. the motor would not run for any length of time. I took it to the local Nissan repair center. He said the valves had carboned up and advised me to use nothing but BP hi-test gas-period. When I take the boat out of the water, I disconnect the gas line and allow it to run while before I put the boat on the trailer. Since I have started doing this, I haven't had any problems. Also, check the vent cap on the tank. do yourself a favor, unless you know exactly what you are doing, spend the money and get a professional mechanic to look at it. It may cost some money and time, but it is well worth it.
Not too tough
This all depends on your comfort level. Your carb most likely has a growth of dried fuel munge (Professional technical term, you laymen might know it as crud or varnish). Likely all you need to do is remove the carb, carefuly disassemble, clean all the passages and reassemble. Remove all the jets that will come out easily. Some may be pressed in and won't come out. Toxic cleaners and compressed air are the tools of choice. Any spray cleaner that calls itself carb cleaner should be good. DO NOT use wire or pipe cleaners. The carb is very simple. Once it is off the engine it should take nno more than about 45 minutes to clean. Take a couple of hours and don't bend any innards. Just be careful of the float and needle valve. Common sense and care will do it. Otherwise send the carb to Dave. (Sorry, I couldn't help myself) By the way: there may be a small fuel filter in the fuel line. They tend to clog up. The engine runs a few minutes and dies. After the fuel has had a few minutes to trickle down into the carb the engine will run for a few more minutes. Especially prevalent on Nissans which are Tohatsu's.
This all depends on your comfort level. Your carb most likely has a growth of dried fuel munge (Professional technical term, you laymen might know it as crud or varnish). Likely all you need to do is remove the carb, carefuly disassemble, clean all the passages and reassemble. Remove all the jets that will come out easily. Some may be pressed in and won't come out. Toxic cleaners and compressed air are the tools of choice. Any spray cleaner that calls itself carb cleaner should be good. DO NOT use wire or pipe cleaners. The carb is very simple. Once it is off the engine it should take nno more than about 45 minutes to clean. Take a couple of hours and don't bend any innards. Just be careful of the float and needle valve. Common sense and care will do it. Otherwise send the carb to Dave. (Sorry, I couldn't help myself) By the way: there may be a small fuel filter in the fuel line. They tend to clog up. The engine runs a few minutes and dies. After the fuel has had a few minutes to trickle down into the carb the engine will run for a few more minutes. Especially prevalent on Nissans which are Tohatsu's.
Running it dry
I've been doing as Bart described: disconnecting the fuel line and running the bowl dry. After 5 years (five 4-month seasons where I live) it got gunked up and stalled, flooded fuel out the air intake, etc. I took it in for a carb job and the guy told me not to run it dry. On the last day, put fuel stabilizer into the tank and run it long enough to have the stabilized fuel fill the carb. I'd be inclined to run it dry, then re-fill the bowl after adding stabilizer. My engine is a 1995 Honda 9.9 (4-stroke BF9.9A). Anyway, has anybody ever heard this theory? Or, maybe it just deserves a carb job every 5 years regardless?
I've been doing as Bart described: disconnecting the fuel line and running the bowl dry. After 5 years (five 4-month seasons where I live) it got gunked up and stalled, flooded fuel out the air intake, etc. I took it in for a carb job and the guy told me not to run it dry. On the last day, put fuel stabilizer into the tank and run it long enough to have the stabilized fuel fill the carb. I'd be inclined to run it dry, then re-fill the bowl after adding stabilizer. My engine is a 1995 Honda 9.9 (4-stroke BF9.9A). Anyway, has anybody ever heard this theory? Or, maybe it just deserves a carb job every 5 years regardless?
Victim of Ethanol
Just got my two year old 6hp Mercury motor back from the dealer. Motor ran very rough and would stall out. The Tech told me that the lift tube and mixture screw were all gummed up. He cleaned the carb and replaced the spark plug. He said that he see's this all the time now.He said I was a victim of Ethanol. He reccommended useing Marine formula STA-BIL treatment in the gas all the time.I now add it to all my gas engines and I will see what happens. My lawnmower runs much better after the first tankfull so I hope it works on the outboard too. Good Sailing.
Just got my two year old 6hp Mercury motor back from the dealer. Motor ran very rough and would stall out. The Tech told me that the lift tube and mixture screw were all gummed up. He cleaned the carb and replaced the spark plug. He said that he see's this all the time now.He said I was a victim of Ethanol. He reccommended useing Marine formula STA-BIL treatment in the gas all the time.I now add it to all my gas engines and I will see what happens. My lawnmower runs much better after the first tankfull so I hope it works on the outboard too. Good Sailing.
Additives to keep fuel fresh and carb clean...
http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail.cfm?ID=1732&ProductCat=Marine&ProductSCat=Additives&ProductSSCat= http://www.k100online.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=K100G&Store_Code=KFTO I add Star Tron to all gas that goes into my outboard motor. K100-G was recommended by two outboard motor mechanics to keep the carb clean. Fair winds, Tom
http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail.cfm?ID=1732&ProductCat=Marine&ProductSCat=Additives&ProductSSCat= http://www.k100online.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=K100G&Store_Code=KFTO I add Star Tron to all gas that goes into my outboard motor. K100-G was recommended by two outboard motor mechanics to keep the carb clean. Fair winds, Tom
Try doing it yourself
Tom, Give it a try yourself first. I just cleaned and rebuilt the carb on my 8 HP Nissan 2-stroke, my first carb experience. It was remarkably simple. Here was the breakdown: 1. Rebuild kit: $40 2. Freshwater flush "earmuffs": $7 3. Clymer repari manual: $19 4. Comfort working on my outboard: Priceless. Hey, if it still doesn't run well, you can take it to a pro. Harry
Tom, Give it a try yourself first. I just cleaned and rebuilt the carb on my 8 HP Nissan 2-stroke, my first carb experience. It was remarkably simple. Here was the breakdown: 1. Rebuild kit: $40 2. Freshwater flush "earmuffs": $7 3. Clymer repari manual: $19 4. Comfort working on my outboard: Priceless. Hey, if it still doesn't run well, you can take it to a pro. Harry
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