Can't Hove-to

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David

I was on a friend's Capri26 ('90 with wing keek) recently and was not able to hove-to (spelling?). Even though I back-winded the jib and released and pushed out the boom, the boat would head up into the wind and tack. Has anyone else experienced this? Should I try something different? Thanks, Dave
 
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Trevor - SailboatOwners.com

Keep the boom sheeted in

Hi David - It seems odd that the boat would want to round up with the headsail backed, especially with the mainsheet loosened as you say. While some boats definitely heave-to better than others, typically the method is to keep the mainsail sheeted all the way in. When close hauled (jib in also), simply tack without dropping the jib sheet. The main will want to drive the boat up, while the jib should hold the bow down, creating a state of equilibium. Try to determine what force is bringing the bow up into the wind.... apparently the jib isn't holding the bow down. Could be a problem if the jib is fractional. Best, Trevor
 
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Joe

Try lashing the tiller to leeward..

letting the rudder and jib counter-act each other. Loosely sheet the main after the vessel finds its angle. btw.. hove-to is past tense for heave-to. Both terms refer to the act of heaving-to.
 
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Mike - C22

Heaving to

When I heave to, I sheet the jib in tight, then back it against the mast. I then let out a little on the main sheet, and hook a bungee that I carry on the boom to the shroud as a preventer. I throw the tiller over to the oposite side than the boom, which is to windward, sometimes tying it in place if I'm by myself and want to go below or just have hands free. To clarify it, the boom and tiller should be parallel. To undo being heaved to, I untie the tiller, disconnect the bungee preventer, and allow the jib to blow over to the lee side, and sometimes sheet out the main a little as I do it to reduce heel. I used to have access to a link that shows this in animation, very easy to follow. If I find it, I'll post it.
 
Dec 8, 2003
100
- - Texas
Couple of thoughts

1. Was there a tide or current running that could have influenced the boat behaviour? 2. Some times... all forward momentum must be stopped in order to be successful... In fact, a little leeway will provide a backing up force against the hard over rudder which will help hold the boat from tacking.
 
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Bob Camarena

Keel

From what I've read (along with a complete lack of personal experience)I understand that true "heaving to" is best done with full keel boats. Whatever we might do with a fin keel or wing keel is going to be something less stable than true heaving to. I've never been able to try it since my home waters are primarily rivers and channels. I could heave to for maybe 60 seconds before I hit something or ran aground.
 
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Stu Jackson C34 1986 #224

Heave to

David I understand Bob's comments, but don't agree. Most of everything else that's been said is OK. Do it slowly, and make sure your jib is in TIGHT before you go. If the jib was set for reaching, it'll be too far out to make a heave to easy to do, because the balance is harder to match. Tight jib, slow tack without releasing jib sheet, balance the boat by letting it push back up into the wind AFTER you've passed the eye, and use the mainsheet to balance after the tiller or wheel is put down. Stu
 
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Garry @ S/V TASHTEGO

Heaving to

Mike's solution is interesting. If the boat tacks with the jib aback and the tiller to leaward - lash the tiller to windward to keep her down. I have heaved (heaven? - hoven? - love these old irregular verbs) to in a fin keel Catalina 27 with no problem except that the genoa is going to get a lot of chafe so it should only be done for a short time. IF you expect to heave to often a 90% or 100% jib would make it a lot less stressful on the boat. Practice heaving to as it is the best thing to do in a crew overboard event. Just throw in a tack without freeing the jib sheet and you should stop quite close to the COB.
 
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David Williams

Another Opinion

I sail solo frequently, and heave-to often. My C-22 behaves differently with the 150 up or the 110. It is easier to heave-to with the 150 up, but works with the 110 also. On a close-hauled course, tack leave the jib sheeted tight, and ease the main a little. One must let the boat slow to a stop, before a balance can be acheived. Then let the tiller go, and set you boat balance with the main. The tiller will turn to the lee on its on, when the boat is balanced. Basically when you are heave-to, the wind will be slightly forward of the beam. To balance, remember the wind is turning the bow leeward, the rudder is driving the bow windward. By trimming the main more pressure is put on the rear of the boat, holding the boat with the wind abeam, and even making it go to weather. Easing the main lets the jib take over, if the main is eased too much, the bow will come off wind, till you gybe. Just remember that your forward momentum has to be stopped, or atleast nearly stopped, before you can effectively heave-to. Once heaved-to, you will move side-ways downwind. It is easy to get out of a heave-to. Just cut the jib, and bring the tiller to the center of the boat, sheet in and go. David
 
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Mike - C22

Retraction with apologies

I have egg on my face, my shirt, and my lap. I'm sorry to everybody for posting incorrect information. I found the link I was referring to and placed it below. http://www.staff.uiuc.edu/~rwahlfel/C22ListFAQ.htm#HeavingTo Scroll down once you've opened the link and click on heaving to, then open the illustration.
 
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