Can't get away without the wedge....

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Jan 5, 2004
44
Oday 23 Greenwich, NJ
I tried to fit my new Fulton outboard bracket on sunday, without the wedge and using some new backing plates inside out outside the transom (ODay 23). Problem is, there is interference with the transom and rub-rail when the mount is in the up position.... So no dice, I have to put the wedge back. Which means I have to fill-in the interior of the wedge, where a couple of pieces of filler came out when I removed it from the transom. I've got a big can of West Fiberglass repair, this should be OK--no? Its the one with chopped glass in a resin and a tube of hardener. Next thing is to try to remove the old mount from the plate that was fitted between the motor mount and wedge. With all the nuts removed that thing seems frozen in place..... That is, unless anyone has any ideas about where to find another wedge-like (in form or function) piece. Interested to hear how it was that some of you were able to ditch the wedge altogether.
 
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Dave

You can still dump the wedge

Adam, I ran into the same problem when I removed the wedge from my O'Day 222 a few years ago. I simply bought a plastic cutting board from Home Depot (it was probably 1/2 inch thick)and I cut it to the dimensions of the motor mount bracket. I then used it as a spacer between the transom and the new motor mount bracket. I also installed a substantial backing plate inside the transom so the motor mount is much more solid than it used to be. It works great! Dave s/v Hakuna Matata O'Day 222
 
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Adam

Starboard

Dave, I do hav a sheet of 1/2 inch Starboard (marine equiv. of your cutting board--so 3x the price...), and its not enough. I was/am thinking about maybe using 6-8 pieces together (3-4 inches total thickness), but first wanted to see if there are other solutions....
 
May 31, 2004
858
Catalina 28 Branford
I fixed my wedge

Had the same issue: when replacing the motor mount on my Oday 23, I inspected the wedge and found that the interior was rotting out. I removed the bad parts, leaving the inside looking like a scooped out melon. I mixed up some West epoxy, leaving it thin so that it would run into the cracks, and coated the inside of the wedge. Let it dry, then mixed up some more epoxy, this time with thickener. Gave the inside of the wedge two thick coats (probably 1/2 inch thick total). Redrilled the mounting holes. Hoo, boy. I guarantee that thing is stronger now than it ever was. It was quick, easy and fun to do, and the first time I ever used West epoxy. I think the spacer wedge is important; it leaves room for the outboard tiller to be extended and makes it more comfortable to operate the engine. You could shape and glue several layers of Starbord or some cutting boards (now that is a cool idea for a substitute material!) to make a replacement, but I would rather mix and pour than cut and sand.
 
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