Can't find the source of water in bilge - H33

[Maurice Doran]

I wouldn't worry about the vented loop. It's mostly above the water line. I left it alone but replaced all the other hoses.

Few years ago replaced the waste hose from toilet to waste tank. A whole new adventure in itself. Get in touch if you end up down that rabbit hole.

I tried removing the panel behind the toilet and I can't find a way to get it out without removing the toilet and pushing the houses in the hole behind the toilet. I cut the silicone bead on the right side and removed the screws on along the left lip but there was no room to slide it down so it could clear the bottom. How did you remove the panel on your boat?

 

[Scott B]

I tried removing the panel behind the toilet and I can't find a way to get it out without removing the toilet and pushing the houses in the hole behind the toilet. I cut the silicone bead on the right side and removed the screws on along the left lip but there was no room to slide it down so it could clear the bottom. How did you remove the panel on your boat?

I didn't remove that panel. Vented loop seemed to be ok so left as is.

 

[Maurice Doran]

I didn't remove that panel. Vented loop seemed to be ok so left as is.

Hi Scott,
Maybe I misunderstood your description.

I am still trying to access where the water supply hose connects to the vented loop. I only see the part connected to the seacock that goes under the floor and the part that sticks out of the bathroom floor and connects to the toilet. In order to find the leak, I need to see the entire hose or at least the part that presumably resides behind the panel and so I can check the vented loop connections in case that's the source of the leak.

At this point I am sure the leak occurs somewhere along the water supply hose between the seacock and toilet connection. I just can't tell exactly where the hose is leaking.

We've been using the toilet with the seacock closed and we just flush a cup of freshwater through when we use it. It's not a solution but at least we can make do until I can find and fix the leak.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

 

[wdonovan]

Ice box drain?

 

[Maurice Doran]

Ice box drain?

No ice box, no ice box drain. Water only enters the bilge when the toilet fresh water seacock is open. It's somewhere along that hose but can't figure out where the anti siphon valve is located to see if it's a connection or a hole in the hose.

 

[Scott B]

Hi Scott,
Maybe I misunderstood your description.

I am still trying to access where the water supply hose connects to the vented loop. I only see the part connected to the seacock that goes under the floor and the part that sticks out of the bathroom floor and connects to the toilet. In order to find the leak, I need to see the entire hose or at least the part that presumably resides behind the panel and so I can check the vented loop connections in case that's the source of the leak.

At this point I am sure the leak occurs somewhere along the water supply hose between the seacock and toilet connection. I just can't tell exactly where the hose is leaking.

We've been using the toilet with the seacock closed and we just flush a cup of freshwater through when we use it. It's not a solution but at least we can make do until I can find and fix the leak.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

The vented loop is attached to the back of the toilet pump and then goes up behind the panel and to the back of the toilet. The hose from the seacock goes straight to the toilet pump it is the hose towards the bottom of the pump. I assumed that the leak only occured when the seacock was open so would be in the hose from the seacock to the back of the toilet. It leaked when open, not necessarily when pumping water through the toilet. I replaced that hose which was fairly easy and has stopped the leak.

 

[Maurice Doran]

The vented loop is attached to the back of the toilet pump and then goes up behind the panel and to the back of the toilet. The hose from the seacock goes straight to the toilet pump it is the hose towards the bottom of the pump. I assumed that the leak only occured when the seacock was open so would be in the hose from the seacock to the back of the toilet. It leaked when open, not necessarily when pumping water through the toilet. I replaced that hose which was fairly easy and has stopped the leak.

Scott, thanks for clarifying. I understand now and will pull the hose to inspect. At least that hose connects directly to the seacock so it should be relatively easy to replace.

 

[Scott B]

Scott, thanks for clarifying. I understand now and will pull the hose to inspect. At least that hose connects directly to the seacock so it should be relatively easy to replace.

Yes, it was one of the easiest. Mine was caught somewhere inbetween, so most likely were it was rubbing and caused the hole.
The hose from the toilet to the waste tank was a whole other story and several hours of cursing Hunter.

 

[Maurice Doran]

Yes, it was one of the easiest. Mine was caught somewhere inbetween, so most likely were it was rubbing and caused the hole.
The hose from the toilet to the waste tank was a whole other story and several hours of cursing Hunter.

I can imagine, we replaced the macerator pump last year (cracked housing probably due to freezing) and that was a pretty awful job.

Once I get through with the water leak repair, I will be shopping for a new Raymarine chartplotter to replace my aging C80 unit. This also means removing the radome as the new gen hardware is incompatible with the analog radomes. Did your boat come with the Raymarine package and if so, are you still on the original instruments?

 

[Scott B]

I can imagine, we replaced the macerator pump last year (cracked housing probably due to freezing) and that was a pretty awful job.

Once I get through with the water leak repair, I will be shopping for a new Raymarine chartplotter to replace my aging C80 unit. This also means removing the radome as the new gen hardware is incompatible with the analog radomes. Did your boat come with the Raymarine package and if so, are you still on the original instruments?

Oh, and that's a whole different rabbit hole.

Boat had all Raymarine ST60 wind, depth, speed, ST4000 Autopilot and Raymarine 435i chartplotter. The 435i worked well but because the area we boat, it was very slow when zooming in and out due to being very busy and lots of data to process. Saw the new Axioms at the Boat show last year and decided on the Axiom 7 in the spring. The dealer I go to gave me the boat show price and I saved $150 - 200. When I was installing it, in order to get the ST instruments to talk to the Axiom I needed a convertor $ 150. Didn't have this before but thought that was cool so went ahead. Once it was in, also discovered needed a different cover as I had installed it flushmount and the unit I bought was a bracket mount. $ 50. I also went to connect the VHF for DSC. Had this before and it was a direct wired connection, but the new Axiom doesn't speak the old NMEA, so another $150 convertor...... I'm so glad I save $ 150 on the unit for Boat show pricing.

All that aside, I am enjoying the new plotter. I like the touch screen zoom and responds instantaneously. I also like having the various options of info displayed on the plotter. Only issue so far that it doesn't keep the chart poitning with my Heading up and I end up with a sideways chart quite often. I'll need to do some more research and contact Raymarine to sort out. The area we boat, the channel is often an area on the water 50 - 100 ft. wide between submerged rocks just below the surface, so need quick repsonding location and data.

BTW, I completely removed the macerator and capped off the outlet on the tank shortly after we bought the boat as the hose from the tank to the macerator was left full by the PO and was stinking out the aft cabin . Being on the Great Lakes, will never need it and used the thru-hull for the anchor washdown pump.

 

[Maurice Doran]

Oh, and that's a whole different rabbit hole.

Boat had all Raymarine ST60 wind, depth, speed, ST4000 Autopilot and Raymarine 435i chartplotter. The 435i worked well but because the area we boat, it was very slow when zooming in and out due to being very busy and lots of data to process. Saw the new Axioms at the Boat show last year and decided on the Axiom 7 in the spring. The dealer I go to gave me the boat show price and I saved $150 - 200. When I was installing it, in order to get the ST instruments to talk to the Axiom I needed a convertor $ 150. Didn't have this before but thought that was cool so went ahead. Once it was in, also discovered needed a different cover as I had installed it flushmount and the unit I bought was a bracket mount. $ 50. I also went to connect the VHF for DSC. Had this before and it was a direct wired connection, but the new Axiom doesn't speak the old NMEA, so another $150 convertor...... I'm so glad I save $ 150 on the unit for Boat show pricing.

All that aside, I am enjoying the new plotter. I like the touch screen zoom and responds instantaneously. I also like having the various options of info displayed on the plotter. Only issue so far that it doesn't keep the chart poitning with my Heading up and I end up with a sideways chart quite often. I'll need to do some more research and contact Raymarine to sort out. The area we boat, the channel is often an area on the water 50 - 100 ft. wide between submerged rocks just below the surface, so need quick repsonding location and data.

BTW, I completely removed the macerator and capped off the outlet on the tank shortly after we bought the boat as the hose from the tank to the macerator was left full by the PO and was stinking out the aft cabin . Being on the Great Lakes, will never need it and used the thru-hull for the anchor washdown pump.

I have the same ST60/ST4000 setup but in my case they are hooked up to the C80 chartplotter and radar. The chartplotter screen started blinking and blanking out on us about a year ago. It's been an intermittent issue and I have found a few shops that claim it can be fixed but I'm not eager to spend anymore on 20 year electronics. We never use the radar out here anyways so it's just good at catching the jib when we tack. I hope I can sell the combo on ebay to recoup a bit of money (and cover all the converters and cables to make the Axiom work with the old instruments). Should be a fun project. At least it will force me to take the mast down and replace my stretchy halyards.

Thanks a lot for the info on the Axiom installation/connexion. Not sure if there will be a Toronto Boat Show in January but I will be looking out for sales!

 

[sea_casper]

Since launching in early June, I keep finding water in the bilge and I can't find the source. I am pumping roughly a bucket a day. Water is clean. I did a test where I vacuumed the bilge dry while at the dock and it stayed dry for about a week. The minute we left the dock water started rising again. The stuffing box isn't leaking. No water in the pan under the engine. No water in the pan where all the thru hulls are located. The next compartment where the shower drain pump is located is also bone dry. No indication of any leaks at the hot water tank or fresh water pump. I'm on vacation so I check the bilge morning and night and I drain about half a bucket each time. It's the first time this has happened since we bought the boat 3 years ago. At this point I wonder if the water could be coming from the keel bolts but I think it's unlikely. I don't know how the through hulls are installed on these boats. Is there anything accessible under the pan?

Wondering if anyone out there has experienced anything similar. It's a real head scratcher.

Is your Fridge Running, it will put condensate into the bilge, check sink drains for leaks, I had leak at vanity sink drain connection.

 

[Maurice Doran]

Is your Fridge Running, it will put condensate into the bilge, check sink drains for leaks, I had leak at vanity sink drain connection.

I eventually found the source of the water. The freshwater hose between the head and the through-hull had a hole in it. It's possible there was water in the hose that froze over the winter. I usually winterize the head but not the freshwater line since I leave the seacocks open all winter so they can drain. I think there might have been a dip in the hose where some water remained and that caused the hose to crack. I replaced the hose before haul out and that solved the leak. I took care to run some plumbing antifreeze in that hose before putting the boat away for winter.

 

[NINEv2]

What is a "stuffing box"?

 

[kappykaplan]

@NINEv2 , the stuffing box is what the propeller shaft goes through. It has packing that must be periodically replaced. It normally drips a few times a minute when the engine is in gear.