Here's my head scenario... After I pump the bowl dry, the water slowly finds its way back into the toilet bowl. I have checked the air vent and it appears to be clear. I have opened the access port on the holding tank while pumping the bowl dry - nothing runs into the holding tank. My thinking is that the manual pump assembly on the Jabsco needs to be rebuilt so that it pumps better - does this make sense? I just find it really hard to imagine that the hose running from the bowl to the holding tank (through the Y-valve) is completely clogged. The water goes up into the hose but not far enough to run into the holding tank. I have pumped 20 - 30 times but it doesn't make any difference. Is it possible that it is the pump itself? I already have "the book" and have studied it carefully but it's not obvious to me what is going on. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! - Kathy
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Check your Y-valve
Check the position of the Y-Valve. It is not what I'd call clearly indicated on most valves.
Check the position of the Y-Valve. It is not what I'd call clearly indicated on most valves.
Maybe
If you have the access port open and nothing is being delivered, it isn't the vent. It may be that the pump is worn. I find I get about a year to two out of a pump. I would not recommend rebuilding it. Rather I'd get a new pump and change it and the flapper valve and the joker valve (which come with the pump assembly). I have rebuilt many a Jabsco head pump, but the design of the current generation pump is such that it is nearly impossible to reassemble the pump without breaking some of the plastic studs and having leaks as a result. You could always put in a whole new head like a Raritan PHll for a more enduring fix. It's your call based on work, dollars and inclination. Of course, as the last post indicated, check your y-valve postition before anything else. Rick D.
If you have the access port open and nothing is being delivered, it isn't the vent. It may be that the pump is worn. I find I get about a year to two out of a pump. I would not recommend rebuilding it. Rather I'd get a new pump and change it and the flapper valve and the joker valve (which come with the pump assembly). I have rebuilt many a Jabsco head pump, but the design of the current generation pump is such that it is nearly impossible to reassemble the pump without breaking some of the plastic studs and having leaks as a result. You could always put in a whole new head like a Raritan PHll for a more enduring fix. It's your call based on work, dollars and inclination. Of course, as the last post indicated, check your y-valve postition before anything else. Rick D.
Questions:
How long is the head discharge line to the tank? If any of that run is uphill, how long is the uphill run? How old is the toilet? As Bill suggested, make sure the y-valve is open to the tank. On most y-valves, the handle lines up in the direction of the open side.
How long is the head discharge line to the tank? If any of that run is uphill, how long is the uphill run? How old is the toilet? As Bill suggested, make sure the y-valve is open to the tank. On most y-valves, the handle lines up in the direction of the open side.
Anyone Switched from Jabsco to Raritan?
The Y-Valve is okay... I verified that first - but you're right it is hard to tell which way it is actually set. I will either put in a new pump assembly or switch out the Jabsco manual to a Raritan manual - first have to make sure that it fits. Has anyone done this on a Beneteau??
The Y-Valve is okay... I verified that first - but you're right it is hard to tell which way it is actually set. I will either put in a new pump assembly or switch out the Jabsco manual to a Raritan manual - first have to make sure that it fits. Has anyone done this on a Beneteau??
Answers
The head discharge line is approx. 6 or 7ft. with most of it being uphill. The first 2 ft. run fairly horizontal to the Y valve and then it's straight uphill to the holding tank. The toilet was new with the boat in 2001. I have not changed anything and I am sure the first owner did no maintenance either.
The head discharge line is approx. 6 or 7ft. with most of it being uphill. The first 2 ft. run fairly horizontal to the Y valve and then it's straight uphill to the holding tank. The toilet was new with the boat in 2001. I have not changed anything and I am sure the first owner did no maintenance either.
PH-II
I just replaced my Jabsco with a Raritan PH-II on my Catalina. The PH-II droppped right in place. I also went ahead and replaced the hoses and added a vented loop at the same time. One of the easier jobs on the boat, so far.
I just replaced my Jabsco with a Raritan PH-II on my Catalina. The PH-II droppped right in place. I also went ahead and replaced the hoses and added a vented loop at the same time. One of the easier jobs on the boat, so far.
I THINK I know what the problem is...
6' horizontally OR up to 4' vertically is about as far as any manual toilet can move bowl contents in the dry mode. You're trying to move it 2' horizontally first and then another 4-5' uphill. Your wimpy Jabsco toilet can't do it, so it's running back downhill into the bowl. It would be about all even a PH II could do to move bowl contents all the way to your tank in the dry mode. Replacing the joker valve in the toilet discharge will reduce the backflow to slow seepage...but that won't solve the problem, it'll just make it less noticeable. So my advice: When you replace the toilet and sanitation hoses, run the head discharge hose differently...make the first 2-4' uphill, then downhill the rest of the way to the tank...doesn't have to be much of a rise, just a few degrees--enough to create the longer downhill run. The PH II will have no trouble getting bowl contents "over the hump," then gravity can do the rest. You'll LOVE the PH II, btw...you won't know how poorly your Jabsco really performs till see the difference.
6' horizontally OR up to 4' vertically is about as far as any manual toilet can move bowl contents in the dry mode. You're trying to move it 2' horizontally first and then another 4-5' uphill. Your wimpy Jabsco toilet can't do it, so it's running back downhill into the bowl. It would be about all even a PH II could do to move bowl contents all the way to your tank in the dry mode. Replacing the joker valve in the toilet discharge will reduce the backflow to slow seepage...but that won't solve the problem, it'll just make it less noticeable. So my advice: When you replace the toilet and sanitation hoses, run the head discharge hose differently...make the first 2-4' uphill, then downhill the rest of the way to the tank...doesn't have to be much of a rise, just a few degrees--enough to create the longer downhill run. The PH II will have no trouble getting bowl contents "over the hump," then gravity can do the rest. You'll LOVE the PH II, btw...you won't know how poorly your Jabsco really performs till see the difference.
Thanks!!
I will give it a shot - it seems cheaper in the long run to put in a new unit than to try to rebuid one that doesn't sound too great to begin with.
I will give it a shot - it seems cheaper in the long run to put in a new unit than to try to rebuid one that doesn't sound too great to begin with.
I look forward to a simple job
I haven't had too many simple jobs so far... they always seem to start out that way but then they get complicated! Glad to hear that this one won't be too bad. Thanks for the input!
I haven't had too many simple jobs so far... they always seem to start out that way but then they get complicated! Glad to hear that this one won't be too bad. Thanks for the input!
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