Been neglecting my tiller since I bought this boat in August. Hot, humid South Carolina weather has apparently torn it up. Can I repair this or do I have to get a new one at WM?
Can this be fixed?
- Thread starter Viesail
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Looks like a pretty simple fix with a little bit of epoxy and maybe a stainless bolt or screw.. you could even get creative and make the repair functional as well, such as being an attachment point for a tiller extension or an eye-bolt for attaching bungee cords etc.. 
Cheers,
Brad
Cheers,
Brad
I just fixed mine with marine epoxy and a 3/8" bolt. I promised to post before-and-after pictures but didn't. I do have these two before and during pictures and will try to remember to take a picture Friday when I'm at the boat. The difference is my separation was at the base end. I'm not sure I would want a bolt hanging out on the handle end.
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Hello Viesail,
Twice I've done repairs similar to the one you asked about.
Use epoxy for the repair and add a bit of interest to the job by drilling holes to insert dowel sticks down through the tiller. I used oak dowels of 3/8 inch diameter although I drilled the next size large hole with a bit...25/64. Using a drill press would be best, but acceptable results can be achieved with care and a hand-held electric drill. I chose to place the holes at 6 inch centers along the tiller, but stopped short of the forward end in case I decide that a tiller extension is needed.
The dowels add interest to the tiller and the epoxy on them serves to strengthen the split areas. By all means clean out the old glue as much as possible and use glueing clamps after the epoxy covered dowels are inserted. Drizzle some epoxy into the split areas before clamping.
The dowel in the pictures is extending from the aft end of the tiller. The dowel going through the tiller horizontally is to repair the hole for the bolt in the top of the rudder. It was oblong and I will drill a new hole to insert the bolt for installation.
Best Wishes, Phil
Twice I've done repairs similar to the one you asked about.
Use epoxy for the repair and add a bit of interest to the job by drilling holes to insert dowel sticks down through the tiller. I used oak dowels of 3/8 inch diameter although I drilled the next size large hole with a bit...25/64. Using a drill press would be best, but acceptable results can be achieved with care and a hand-held electric drill. I chose to place the holes at 6 inch centers along the tiller, but stopped short of the forward end in case I decide that a tiller extension is needed.
The dowels add interest to the tiller and the epoxy on them serves to strengthen the split areas. By all means clean out the old glue as much as possible and use glueing clamps after the epoxy covered dowels are inserted. Drizzle some epoxy into the split areas before clamping.
The dowel in the pictures is extending from the aft end of the tiller. The dowel going through the tiller horizontally is to repair the hole for the bolt in the top of the rudder. It was oblong and I will drill a new hole to insert the bolt for installation.
Best Wishes, Phil
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Another method.
What I use to do is clean out the glues between the cracks on the end of the tiller handles. Take wood glue and insert. Then clamp down and letting dry. When clamping, apply wood strips on the ends of the tiller handle which to clamp to with the clamps vs. applying clamps onto the tiller handle itself so not to indent the tiller handle. This is what I do when repairing furniture as well.
What I use to do is clean out the glues between the cracks on the end of the tiller handles. Take wood glue and insert. Then clamp down and letting dry. When clamping, apply wood strips on the ends of the tiller handle which to clamp to with the clamps vs. applying clamps onto the tiller handle itself so not to indent the tiller handle. This is what I do when repairing furniture as well.
I have a question,
I have a Mac. 26S. The tiller looks like solid mahogany. It feels pretty light and there are times in a blow that I worry about breaking it.
Are the laminated tillers stronger than a solid mahogany one? They do look nice.
Jim
I have a Mac. 26S. The tiller looks like solid mahogany. It feels pretty light and there are times in a blow that I worry about breaking it.
Are the laminated tillers stronger than a solid mahogany one? They do look nice.
Jim
You will probably find the glue is close to parting along the whole length of the tiller. Gently try peeling it back and see.
If so fixing the end will only result in further delamination soon after.
Prize it all apart, clean up the faces of the timber and re glue. Its easy to get it all back together and either clamp or bind it with thin line until set. No need for ugly bolts or screws.
Then clean up the glue where it has squeezed out of the joints and re varnish.
The secret to long tiller life is to make a snood from Sunbrella and slip it on every time you leave the boat. This way my tiller never again needed its annual varnishing and was good as new 10 years later when I sold the boat.
Strong as new too!
If so fixing the end will only result in further delamination soon after.
Prize it all apart, clean up the faces of the timber and re glue. Its easy to get it all back together and either clamp or bind it with thin line until set. No need for ugly bolts or screws.
Then clean up the glue where it has squeezed out of the joints and re varnish.
The secret to long tiller life is to make a snood from Sunbrella and slip it on every time you leave the boat. This way my tiller never again needed its annual varnishing and was good as new 10 years later when I sold the boat.
Strong as new too!
Doehunter; if you balance your sail plan fore and aft you should not have a lot of pressure on the rudder. the keel should take most of the force.
I had a rudder that began to split between the grain. I drilled a hole into it and dropped some epoxy and an old drill bit into it. I did the best I could with getting epoxy in the crack. I patted some saw dust down on the hole, clamped it and it's been fine for several years now. You have to look close to see the repair as the sawdust stains very similar to the rest of the wood. And no bolts or anything sticking out.
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