Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nuts

[pcjrusso]

I have a new to me 1982 Oday 34. I have it inside cold winter storage to give me more working time on it this winter. I have stripped everything off the top side short of the anchor roller. I have a few wet spots in the core to repair and I am over drilling filling with the west system and bedding with rubber butyl. (Following Maine Sail’s great pages.)
Getting to all of the stanchions nuts was a tough job, now I am thinking how in the heck I can get the nuts back on and turn them from the bottom; all I can think is that I will have to cut part of the fiberglass lip so I can get a deep socket on the nuts. If just hold the nuts and have someone turn the screws the rubber butyl will push out.
My concern is I will have to cut the lip 4 times on each side of the hull will this weaken the structure of the hull.
Thanks in advance for any help with this question.

 

[NYSail]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

Do you have a picture? Is it part of the liner or hull??

 

[DeniseO30]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

I know the problem and it's difficult to impossible to access the bolts from the bottom. When and if I ever get around to doing them on my boat I think I'll try using a string or wire to pull the nut up the hole and glue them from the bottom. (being sure to keep grease on the threads) this would be with a headless bolt to connect the wire or string to.

Cutting in from the deck to hull joint sounds scary but I don't think it would really hurt the structure if it's fixed with epoxy and cloth; but then the stanchions do subject to deck stressing and flex. If you go that way, why not get larger then needed backing plates?

I've also looked at stainless toggle bolts but at around $5 each....

 

[25yearslater]

Have you considered this approach. This is the technique I used on my Oday recycling project. See 'And so it begins' under Odayowner forums, bigger boats on 3/30/2011 and 3/31/2011 for the text.

 

[RAD]

I did this real easy by getting a 2" hole saw and making an access hole in the cabin liner right under the stanchion's and then when I installed the new nuts I used standard 1/4-20 nuts cause the spun on real easy and later had some else up top holding the screw heads with a screw driver......to get at the nuts go to Sears and get a swivel head ratchet box wrench
I also have a picture of the back plates I made cause Oday used small weeny washers

 

[31seahorse]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

We had some deck damage at a stanchion base on our O'day 34. It was at the stanchion aft of the head and nearly even with the bulkhead between the cabin and the head. Problem: My fingers wouldn't bend in the direction necessary to hold a wrench on the nuts! I did cut away some of the lip that obstructed my reach. I thought it was not going to weaken the area because I cut a small amount. By the way this is one of the places where the multimaster or other brand vibrating cutting tool will be perfect for the job. As mentioned above......add some respectable backer plates while you are doing the work.

 

[All U Get]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

The next question would be how to cover the hole. The PO of our boat had the interior redone leaving zero access to any deck hardware or toerail. We have to remove the cabin liner and some woodwork just to get near the bolts. I thought a holesaw on an angle drill would work and then cover them with a round soffit vent. For areas that would remain exposed I was thinking of cutting a plug out of teak or adding a LED light to cover the hole. I don't think I'd ever do the teak toe rail since it has a bazillion bolts the length of the boat.
All U Get

 

[sandpiper10471]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

25 years - I have never seen those fittings before. Look really useful. What are they called and how are they used? Where do you get them?

 

[Steve Dion]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

Rad:

Couldn't you have just drilled and tapped those alum. plates?

 

[25yearslater]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

Hi Sandpiper. They are called T-Nuts. I purchased them from McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com and they come in a variety of styles and material. I used 1/4 - 20 X 7/16 four prong standard barrel in 18-8 stainless. You can type in T Nuts in their search feature and it will take you to their page. I embedded them in the deck using 404 High Density filler and epoxy.

 

[All U Get]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

25 years-How did you keep the epoxy out of the T-nut? Did you fill them with something?
All U Get

 

[pcjrusso]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

Thank you all for your help I have a few options to thi.nk about, I do like the idea of making heavy duty backer plates and tapping them for the 1/4-20 screws. my only worry is turning the screws and pushing all the sealant out thus allowing water tohi seep in. The Good thing is I have a few cold months ahead of me to think on it.
once again thank you all.
Pat

 

[Steve Dion]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

Pat:

Take a look at Maine Sail's sight regarding the use of Butyl. This stuff is the best for bedding your stanchions. I think you will be pleased with the results.

 

[25yearslater]

What I did all u get was to place the T nuts in the holes and using an epoxy syringe fill the hole around them. Once filled I waxed the 1/4 - 20 screws and threaded them through the stantion base and into the nut. I also put two more screws through the base and into the through holes to hold location. Upon a 24 hour cure, unscrew the two T nut screws and lift stantion base off. Sand flush and touch up any small gaps with thickened epoxy. Even if the T nut has the top sanded a bit it won't effect it. In the event there is contamination of the hole it can be carefully cleaned out with a #7 drill and tapped. The rule of engagement for screw depth is 1.5 X the diameter. I also routed out under the edge of the hole using a Dremel tool and a roofing nail with serations filed in it just to protect my newly installed balsa core and add a bit more strength. Hope this helps clarify things. If not don't hesitate to keep asking questions.

 

[RAD]

Rad:

Couldn't you have just drilled and tapped those alum. plates?

After I made them and started the installation I realized that tapping them would have made the job a little easier

All U Get....I covered the holes with a standard one gang blank electrical plate

 

[pcjrusso]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

No Questions about it I am using main sails rubber butyl and following his west system advice.

thanks

 

[Ross]

Re: Can I cut the fiberglass lip for access to stanchion nut

A nice neat champher on the holes will allow the caulk to squeeze into the area around the bolt.

 

[sailaway78]

How bout

Have you looked to see if you can find some long speciality nuts. I have seen some long nuts from time to time. Seems like a long 1/4x20 nut would be a very easy solution. Might try a nut/bolt supply house and see if some thing is available. I know I have seen them in the past.

 

[mitiempo]

Coupling nut

 

[pcjrusso]

Re: How bout

Now that is a great idea.. They are called !/4-20 Rod Couplings I know every electrical supply company has them. Atleast in plated. I am sure they can be had in Stainless.

Pat