Can anyone tell me what this isin front of the prop?

[Capt Robbie]

The inner core of the cutless bearing is some type of hard rubber, not sure of what is is actually made of.
It is water lubricated and should turn freely however it will not freewheel like a bicycle tire, it has some resistance.
Try to lube it with water and try to spin the shaft.
If really hard to spin try to flush it out with water and a little CLR cleaner in a syringe. It may just have dried marine crime inside of it.

 

[DayDreamer41]

It may just have dried marine crime inside of it.

Yah that marine crime stuff will stop ya every time.......... they are as bad as pirates.......

 

[Newport Bob]

I agree with Gunni re space for water flow thru the cutlass. Remove the line cutter and place the zinc at the prop. If you want a line cutter I have been installing a SALCA collar zinc made by Sea Shield Marine - available from many suppliers - google.

 

[Bob S]

All good, itwasin gear.

 

[Bob Mack]

HI All, I have a 2007 373, 3JH4E Yanmar, 3 Blade Max Prop. Have a 30MM shaft, with a 1/2" anode on front of the max prop, see attached.

Would like to use a wider anode. question. Can a spacer be installed on the output connection on the engine to increase the space available for the anodes? Specifically, can the shaft be slid back further into my original dripless mechanical stuffing box (Volvo Penta I believe)?

PS if anyone is wondering I polish my blades using sandpaper up to 200 grit, 2 buffing compounds and Simichrome. Absolutely no barnacles on prop, here in CT.

 

[All U Get]

I'll be the first to ask Why do you need more zinc. That prop should be in a showroom, nice work.

 

[Mechone]

HI All, I have a 2007 373, 3JH4E Yanmar, 3 Blade Max Prop. Have a 30MM shaft, with a 1/2" anode on front of the max prop, see attached.

Would like to use a wider anode. question. Can a spacer be installed on the output connection on the engine to increase the space available for the anodes? Specifically, can the shaft be slid back further into my original dripless mechanical stuffing box (Volvo Penta I believe)?

PS if anyone is wondering I polish my blades using sandpaper up to 200 grit, 2 buffing compounds and Simichrome. Absolutely no barnacles on prop, here in CT.

Answer to your question Yes I did it , I added a flexible coupling between the coupling which moved the prop out 1.250 " giving room for bigger anode. No vibrations ,and the shaft/prop is now electrically isolated.
I also machined the shaft key longer and cut the shaft 1/2" so it was only sticking out .750 longer as my shaft is 25mm. On another note where the shaft tube exits the fiberglass skeg to the tube is at 90 degrees. This is a very weak design , myself and many other Beneteau owners have had this crack around the tube ,allowing water to run up the tube and start leaking into bilge. My fix was to glass around the tube to the skeg giving a nice radius and eliminating the 90 degree weak spot and making the tube stronger. Coupling was R&D marine

 

[Gunni]

Clean the back surface of your MaxProp and firmly butt the anode to your prop.