I have the factory supplied Ameriseam campertop on my 260. However, it does not seem to have been installed correctly. I need to use a pair of pliers to pull on the canvas to get the last snap engaged. The aft end of the hatch is not able to be tilted high enough to use its chrome legs to hold it up even if I try to place them at an angle (I have to use some woooden dowels instead}. The top sags considerably between the aluminum inverted "U" pipe frame and the edge of the raised hatch. The rear plastic window is very difficult to zip in because the aft-most starboard snap was installed a couple of inches up the side below the hatch track. Some of the snap screws are rusting. Do other 260 owners with the Ameriseam top have a better fit?
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Would like info
Bernie, could you tell me if there is a website describing this camper top? I had not heard of it till now and it sounds like a good idea. Thanks
Bernie, could you tell me if there is a website describing this camper top? I had not heard of it till now and it sounds like a good idea. Thanks
Pop Top Picture
Paul, Search the Hunter Owners' store for the words "pop top". They have a good picture of the top - the way I thought it should fit. Bernie
Paul, Search the Hunter Owners' store for the words "pop top". They have a good picture of the top - the way I thought it should fit. Bernie
pop-top fit
Bernie, Our 260's pop top works OK.....I use the chrome legs to hold up the hatch, and they are at an angle back towards the cockpit (~45) and rest against a vertical area of the hatch track. We don't have any problem with the snaps, maybe you should install a couple snaps yourself to remedy that situation. The top does sag somewhat which collects water during a good rain. I'm trying to figure out a way to prevent/improve that aspect. Maybe a telescoping pole that would go between the aft hatch and the inverted 'U' frame piece to apply a force there to make to top taut. Any other ideas? Tom M.
Bernie, Our 260's pop top works OK.....I use the chrome legs to hold up the hatch, and they are at an angle back towards the cockpit (~45) and rest against a vertical area of the hatch track. We don't have any problem with the snaps, maybe you should install a couple snaps yourself to remedy that situation. The top does sag somewhat which collects water during a good rain. I'm trying to figure out a way to prevent/improve that aspect. Maybe a telescoping pole that would go between the aft hatch and the inverted 'U' frame piece to apply a force there to make to top taut. Any other ideas? Tom M.
pop-top problems
Paul, I have found that snapping the p/t in place before raising the hatch top support or putting in the aft brace helps. I found at BoatUS a product called "Extend a Snap" that gives an extra inch or so leeway. To prevent rain collecting in the inevitable sag of the top I have put a tarp over the boom which also gives some covers the opening between the p/t and the bimini. In light rain the hatch boards can be left open for ventilation with this boom tent. I bought mistakenly some small batten stock. I think a small section bent into an arch can be used to give the top enough slope to prevent water gathering there. I haven't tried that yet. keeping dry in la, Marv Otto S/V Kobold Goldemar
Paul, I have found that snapping the p/t in place before raising the hatch top support or putting in the aft brace helps. I found at BoatUS a product called "Extend a Snap" that gives an extra inch or so leeway. To prevent rain collecting in the inevitable sag of the top I have put a tarp over the boom which also gives some covers the opening between the p/t and the bimini. In light rain the hatch boards can be left open for ventilation with this boom tent. I bought mistakenly some small batten stock. I think a small section bent into an arch can be used to give the top enough slope to prevent water gathering there. I haven't tried that yet. keeping dry in la, Marv Otto S/V Kobold Goldemar
Pop top
Hi Bernie It sounds like a bad install of the snaps. I watched Dave install mine, he first raised the companionway in place and placed the pop top in place. Then he started installing the snaps while ajusting the fit. It does sag but Dave said better to sag than be to tight. I would take pictures for you but Dave has my boat to do some installation work. If I could keep him in town and stop going to boat shows!!! Jim S/V Java
Hi Bernie It sounds like a bad install of the snaps. I watched Dave install mine, he first raised the companionway in place and placed the pop top in place. Then he started installing the snaps while ajusting the fit. It does sag but Dave said better to sag than be to tight. I would take pictures for you but Dave has my boat to do some installation work. If I could keep him in town and stop going to boat shows!!! Jim S/V Java
Move the tightsnaps
Just infuse the old hole with marine silocone and the edge of the snap when you move it will cover the hole too. Whoever installed your top simply put the snaps in the wrong place on your boat. The snap extender idea is a good one too! Good luck.
Just infuse the old hole with marine silocone and the edge of the snap when you move it will cover the hole too. Whoever installed your top simply put the snaps in the wrong place on your boat. The snap extender idea is a good one too! Good luck.
Pop top sagging
I have an H240 with the camper top and have the same sagging problem as well as the snap problem. I think that the snap problem comes from the material getting wet and then shinking and I am gong to look into the extend snap mentioned earlier. As for the sagging I saw somewhere, I think the archives with a picture of a small line attatched to the middle of the sagging roof of the camper top and then the bitter end tied to the boom to pull up the top and prevent any sagging. I'm going to try using a wooden dow and if that doesn't work try the line method. After a hard rain and water laying in the top it does start to drip. Also use caution not to touch the camper top as it will leak where ever you touch just like a tent.
I have an H240 with the camper top and have the same sagging problem as well as the snap problem. I think that the snap problem comes from the material getting wet and then shinking and I am gong to look into the extend snap mentioned earlier. As for the sagging I saw somewhere, I think the archives with a picture of a small line attatched to the middle of the sagging roof of the camper top and then the bitter end tied to the boom to pull up the top and prevent any sagging. I'm going to try using a wooden dow and if that doesn't work try the line method. After a hard rain and water laying in the top it does start to drip. Also use caution not to touch the camper top as it will leak where ever you touch just like a tent.
Same problem fella
Hi Bernie, I believe you and I corresponded a few months ago regarding some dealer issues. Our boat has the same “sag problem”. I rigged a semi rigid but flexible piece of aluminum to create a slight pitch to the “sagging” area. It is held in place by a couple of brackets, which are installed on the aluminum tube support and the hatch. Drop me a line regarding the status of your “issues”. I am in the 260 Directory. Good Luck.
Hi Bernie, I believe you and I corresponded a few months ago regarding some dealer issues. Our boat has the same “sag problem”. I rigged a semi rigid but flexible piece of aluminum to create a slight pitch to the “sagging” area. It is held in place by a couple of brackets, which are installed on the aluminum tube support and the hatch. Drop me a line regarding the status of your “issues”. I am in the 260 Directory. Good Luck.
Campertop fix
I finally have fixed my campertop so that it looks like it was supposed to look when I bought it. I drilled a 3/8 inch hole, 1/4 inch deep on both hatch rails for the chrome hatch legs to rest in so that they will hold up the hatch even though they are at a 45 degree angle towards the stern. The canvas top does not allow the aft end of the hatch to be raised high enough for the legs to be vertical. To get rid of the sag, I bought a 3 ft telescoping support that consists of 3/4" aluminum tubing inside of 7/8 tubing with rubber caps on bot ends. I cut a slot in one of the caps so that it will fit over the padeye for the hatch hasp and be held in place at that end. The other end is held against the campertop inverted "U" frame by pressure and a small velcro strap attached to the canva sleeve that the "U" frame is encased in. The top now looks great, doesn't sag nor traps water. The telescoping tubing is available at BoatUS for $15 or West for $22. The only thing I have left to do is remove and gelcoat patch the eight extra screw snaps the installer incorrectly positioned and are not being used. Thanks to all for your input. Bernie
I finally have fixed my campertop so that it looks like it was supposed to look when I bought it. I drilled a 3/8 inch hole, 1/4 inch deep on both hatch rails for the chrome hatch legs to rest in so that they will hold up the hatch even though they are at a 45 degree angle towards the stern. The canvas top does not allow the aft end of the hatch to be raised high enough for the legs to be vertical. To get rid of the sag, I bought a 3 ft telescoping support that consists of 3/4" aluminum tubing inside of 7/8 tubing with rubber caps on bot ends. I cut a slot in one of the caps so that it will fit over the padeye for the hatch hasp and be held in place at that end. The other end is held against the campertop inverted "U" frame by pressure and a small velcro strap attached to the canva sleeve that the "U" frame is encased in. The top now looks great, doesn't sag nor traps water. The telescoping tubing is available at BoatUS for $15 or West for $22. The only thing I have left to do is remove and gelcoat patch the eight extra screw snaps the installer incorrectly positioned and are not being used. Thanks to all for your input. Bernie
Reconsidering
I thought about one of these tops for my boat but now I'm not sure. They're not cheap and seem to have some problems. Maybe a dodger is the way to go.
I thought about one of these tops for my boat but now I'm not sure. They're not cheap and seem to have some problems. Maybe a dodger is the way to go.
Bernie, the chrome legs
are SUPPOSED to angle aft at about 45 degrees and naturally lie against/be held up by the vertical portion of the hatch track that has the holes in it for the inverted 'U' shaped frame piece on the aft end. They DO NOT stand straight up. (at least that is how it works on my 260 and also on our previous 240) I can see no reason for drilling ANY holes. Oh well. You might consider just leaving the old snaps in place, less work, just a thought. I will be looking into the pole from west marine, good idea I had eh? Glad you're fixed. best regards, Tom M.
are SUPPOSED to angle aft at about 45 degrees and naturally lie against/be held up by the vertical portion of the hatch track that has the holes in it for the inverted 'U' shaped frame piece on the aft end. They DO NOT stand straight up. (at least that is how it works on my 260 and also on our previous 240) I can see no reason for drilling ANY holes. Oh well. You might consider just leaving the old snaps in place, less work, just a thought. I will be looking into the pole from west marine, good idea I had eh? Glad you're fixed. best regards, Tom M.
I think we are talking about different legs
Tom: The chrome legs I am talking about are the one quarter inch diameter ones that hang down from the aft end of the hatch. When I raise the poptop (without the camper top on), these legs are vertical to hold up the back end of the hatch. I couldn't find any way of having them hold up the hatch with it only being able to be partially raised with the campertop on. My solution was to drill a small hole on top of the track on each side to hold these legs in place at about a 45 degree angle. The chrome "U" tubing is about three quarters of an inch in diameter and is held in place by the large holes in the track as you have stated plus the added telescoping pole I now use. I think we are in agreement, but mixing up what we are referring to as "legs". Bernie Bernie
Tom: The chrome legs I am talking about are the one quarter inch diameter ones that hang down from the aft end of the hatch. When I raise the poptop (without the camper top on), these legs are vertical to hold up the back end of the hatch. I couldn't find any way of having them hold up the hatch with it only being able to be partially raised with the campertop on. My solution was to drill a small hole on top of the track on each side to hold these legs in place at about a 45 degree angle. The chrome "U" tubing is about three quarters of an inch in diameter and is held in place by the large holes in the track as you have stated plus the added telescoping pole I now use. I think we are in agreement, but mixing up what we are referring to as "legs". Bernie Bernie
Thanks, Tom
Tom I forgot to give you credit and thank you for the telescoping pole idea. It does work well. Bernie
Tom I forgot to give you credit and thank you for the telescoping pole idea. It does work well. Bernie
You're very welcome Bernie.
I'm glad to hear that that worked for you. Yes, we are talking about the same chrome legs (~1/4" solid). When I open my hatch I sometimes do a quick jerk (push up from standing below) of the hatch so that the legs swing aft and then quickly lower the hatch and have even, occasionally, gotten the legs to land just where they are supposed to be. Other wise I must grab both of them from the vertical and lift the hatch with them and angle them back, thus lowering the hatch, so the legs end up in the spot I mentioned before. I don't have a digital camera or I would post some pictures of what I'm talking about. Maybe someone else could do that...? Maybe you could look at another 240/260 and see how they are setup. Good luck. Tom M.
I'm glad to hear that that worked for you. Yes, we are talking about the same chrome legs (~1/4" solid). When I open my hatch I sometimes do a quick jerk (push up from standing below) of the hatch so that the legs swing aft and then quickly lower the hatch and have even, occasionally, gotten the legs to land just where they are supposed to be. Other wise I must grab both of them from the vertical and lift the hatch with them and angle them back, thus lowering the hatch, so the legs end up in the spot I mentioned before. I don't have a digital camera or I would post some pictures of what I'm talking about. Maybe someone else could do that...? Maybe you could look at another 240/260 and see how they are setup. Good luck. Tom M.
Tom
Tom, When I was working on my 260 today, I finally figured out where you place the hatch's chrome legs on your boat. Unfortunately, the installer of my top really didn't know what he was doing and placed the snaps too low so that I cannot raise the aft end of the hatch high enough to place the chrome legs against the front of the hatch track. Instead, I had to drill a hole several inches down the track to hold the legs in place. Oh well, at least the campertop looks much better now. Bernie
Tom, When I was working on my 260 today, I finally figured out where you place the hatch's chrome legs on your boat. Unfortunately, the installer of my top really didn't know what he was doing and placed the snaps too low so that I cannot raise the aft end of the hatch high enough to place the chrome legs against the front of the hatch track. Instead, I had to drill a hole several inches down the track to hold the legs in place. Oh well, at least the campertop looks much better now. Bernie
Tom Mand Bernie
I have solved the 'flopping' vertical leg problem by standing on the deck and lifting the pop top and then using the boat hook to guide both legs into their proper position. Works almost every time! (smile)
I have solved the 'flopping' vertical leg problem by standing on the deck and lifting the pop top and then using the boat hook to guide both legs into their proper position. Works almost every time! (smile)
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