Calling all COMBI masters

Feb 19, 2010
80
Hail all COMBI gurus! I need your technical assistance!

I'm getting ready to tear into the combi to try to get the prop out of feathered position and freed up so I can shift into forward/reverse/neutral as usual again. It is so frozen that I broke off the control lever (in the cockpit by the tiller) trying to get it to move forward from full aft! I disconnected the linkage to LEVER #31 (on the rear of the engine on the port side of the combi), and I tried to move that lever directly by hand and it is frozen as well. The problem is not the linkage between these two levers. It must be in the combi or the prop or control tube/drive shaft.

I have been digesting Don Angell's REMOVING THE UNIT instructions from the VORM 10Combi_Drive.pdf file and the STRIPPING THE COMBI instructions from the VORM 21Combi_Drive_Overhaul.pdf file.

I'm trying to reconcile them both into one clear set of steps to follow to get into this thing.

If any of you can assist me with some point here, that will really help me to understand the process before I get into it.

It seems like the two sets of instructions detail two different methods of the process.

There are some things in Don Angell's instructions that are not clear to me. In particular he uses different words than found in the list of parts that are shown in the exploded combi parts diagrams. Here's how I understand them:

He talks about pulling the COVER #48 off and then turning the LEVER #31 to move the SLEEVE #27 aft so that you can rotate it teeth down to get at the hole. Then he says to put a pin in the hole to keep it from rotating so that you can unscrew the "gland nut on the tube," which I expect meant NUT #14. Then he says to turn the prop to break the nut free.

Do I interpret his instructions correctly here? If I dive in the water to turn the prop to break the tube free, do I turn it clockwise while facing the stern of the boat and looking forward towards the bow?The STRIPPING THE COMBI instructions have a different method, which is much easier for me to grasp as it uses the same part names as the exploded parts diagrams.

I understand it as this:
disconnect the LEVERS #44 and 31 and links and cables and throttle CAM #35 and THROTTLE COVER #38 and remove both SHAFTS #33 and 28 and then move the combi box HOUSING #15 aft to expose the NUT #14. They they say to put a wrench on the NUT #14 and turn the engine's flywheel to break it lose.So, which method is better?

Do I understand the both correctly? The goal here is to undo the Nut #14?

Given my situation where I can't move the LEVER #31 at all because the prop is completely stuck in the feathered position, I suspect that I won't be able to follow Don's method.

Assuming that I get as far into the combi as this, I am unsure what I am looking to find.

I want the control tube tube to move freely on the drive shaft so that I can change the pitch of the prop blades.

Am I looking for a broken KEY #29-2?

Or is it possible that I moved the LEVER #31 so far aft when I was feathering the prop that now OPERATING SHAFT #28's teeth can't grab the teeth on the SLEEVE #27?

Or is it possible the the control tube unscrewed itself somehow? When I turn the motor over I can see the control tube revolving. I haven't checked to see if I can move it fore or aft directly by hand by grabbing it and pushing yet.

Any guidance here would be very appreciated. The vega is a few hours drive away, so I have to prepare in advance for the trip and then I have limited time while I am there. I can't just work a little and come back and ask another question to the group and then go back and work a little more.

Thanks again,
Kristopher
 
Oct 31, 2019
230
Kris -



He talks about pulling the COVER #48 off and then turning the LEVER #31
-- THIS LEVER IS LIKELY NOT GOING TO MOVE. YOU ARE PROBABLY GOING TO
HAVE TO REMOVE THE LEVER AND THE GEAR THAT IT TURNS TO MOVE THE SLEEVE.
TO DO THIS, YOU MUST ALSO REMOVE THE GEAR THAT WORKS THE THROTTLE ON THE
STARBOARD SIDE. JUST START TAKING THINGS APART SLOWLY WITH GOOD TOOLS.
THE DIRECTIONS MAKE SENSE. I PREFER THE "COMBI WITHOUT TEARS"
DIRECTIONS. IF THINGS START MOVING AGAIN INSIDE THE COMBI YOU HAVE
PROBABLY FIXED THE PROBLEM AND NO NEED TO CONTINUE WITH A COMPLETE
TEAR-DOWN. STOP AND RE-ASSEMBLE AND TRY YOUR LEVER AGAIN.



to move the SLEEVE #27 aft so that you can rotate it teeth down to get
at the hole. YOU WILL SEE THIS HOLE AND IT WILL ONLY MAKE SENSE WHEN
YOU SEE IT. I DID NOT HAVE TO TURN THE PROP TO BREAK THE GLAND NUT
FREE PUT A PIN IN THE HOLE AND TURN THE NUT WITH A WRENCH AND PRESTO IT
SHOULD FREE UP. THE ONLY REVERSE THREAD IS AT THE AFT OR PROP END OF
THE CONTROL TUBE ALL OTHER THREADS ARE RIGHT-HANDED.



Trevor V2915





From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of k_setchfield
Sent: July 22, 2010 2:26 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Calling all COMBI masters





Hail all COMBI gurus! I need your technical assistance!

I'm getting ready to tear into the combi to try to get the prop out of
feathered position and freed up so I can shift into
forward/reverse/neutral as usual again. It is so frozen that I broke off
the control lever (in the cockpit by the tiller) trying to get it to
move forward from full aft! I disconnected the linkage to LEVER #31 (on
the rear of the engine on the port side of the combi), and I tried to
move that lever directly by hand and it is frozen as well. The problem
is not the linkage between these two levers. It must be in the combi or
the prop or control tube/drive shaft.

I have been digesting Don Angell's REMOVING THE UNIT instructions from
the VORM 10Combi_Drive.pdf file and the STRIPPING THE COMBI instructions
from the VORM 21Combi_Drive_Overhaul.pdf file.

I'm trying to reconcile them both into one clear set of steps to follow
to get into this thing.

If any of you can assist me with some point here, that will really help
me to understand the process before I get into it.

It seems like the two sets of instructions detail two different methods
of the process.

There are some things in Don Angell's instructions that are not clear to
me. In particular he uses different words than found in the list of
parts that are shown in the exploded combi parts diagrams. Here's how I
understand them:

He talks about pulling the COVER #48 off and then turning the LEVER #31
to move the SLEEVE #27 aft so that you can rotate it teeth down to get
at the hole. Then he says to put a pin in the hole to keep it from
rotating so that you can unscrew the "gland nut on the tube," which I
expect meant NUT #14. Then he says to turn the prop to break the nut
free.

Do I interpret his instructions correctly here? If I dive in the water
to turn the prop to break the tube free, do I turn it clockwise while
facing the stern of the boat and looking forward towards the bow?

The STRIPPING THE COMBI instructions have a different method, which is
much easier for me to grasp as it uses the same part names as the
exploded parts diagrams.

I understand it as this:
disconnect the LEVERS #44 and 31 and links and cables and throttle CAM
#35 and THROTTLE COVER #38 and remove both SHAFTS #33 and 28 and then
move the combi box HOUSING #15 aft to expose the NUT #14. They they say
to put a wrench on the NUT #14 and turn the engine's flywheel to break
it lose.

So, which method is better?

Do I understand the both correctly? The goal here is to undo the Nut
#14?

Given my situation where I can't move the LEVER #31 at all because the
prop is completely stuck in the feathered position, I suspect that I
won't be able to follow Don's method.

Assuming that I get as far into the combi as this, I am unsure what I am
looking to find.

I want the control tube tube to move freely on the drive shaft so that I
can change the pitch of the prop blades.

Am I looking for a broken KEY #29-2?

Or is it possible that I moved the LEVER #31 so far aft when I was
feathering the prop that now OPERATING SHAFT #28's teeth can't grab the
teeth on the SLEEVE #27?

Or is it possible the the control tube unscrewed itself somehow? When I
turn the motor over I can see the control tube revolving. I haven't
checked to see if I can move it fore or aft directly by hand by grabbing
it and pushing yet.

Any guidance here would be very appreciated. The vega is a few hours
drive away, so I have to prepare in advance for the trip and then I have
limited time while I am there. I can't just work a little and come back
and ask another question to the group and then go back and work a little
more.

Thanks again,
Kristopher
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi

The combi for the 021/2 Petrol engine is different to the Volvo MD6/7 Diesel engine. Make sure you have the correct instructions for your combi.

Cheers

Steve B
 
Oct 31, 2019
230
Or is it possible that I moved the LEVER #31 so far aft when I was
feathering the prop that now OPERATING SHAFT #28's teeth can't grab the
teeth on the SLEEVE #27?



Yes- this is what I think has happened.



Trevor V2915





From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Birch
Sent: July 22, 2010 3:04 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Calling all COMBI masters





Hi

The combi for the 021/2 Petrol engine is different to the Volvo MD6/7
Diesel engine. Make sure you have the correct instructions for your
combi.

Cheers

Steve B