Calling all 39 and 40 owners

[slavanaway]

Not a lot of activity here. How can we change that. I would love to see an Oday 39/40 and Sunfizz group. Combined there were only a couple of hundred
built.

I am new to Oday's but with the purchase of my 39, I am excited by all the positive feedback on these boats.

Still wonder why the boat is supposedly slower than an Island Packet 38...

I am in the SF area and would love to start a group, get more pictures of upgrades, and copies of manuals etc online.

Someone shout back if you are there.

Fair winds,

Sam

 

[RAD]

Sam,
Congrats on the new to you 39 and here's a link on Facebook for ODay owners where you can keep tabs about our annual northeast rOnDAYvous held every July in the tri-state area.....we have two 40's that show up from a pretty far distance every year

http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/group.php?gid=48202197277

 

[Jack19539]

O Day 39

Hi Sam,

You are right, not much activity.

I love the boat.

Don't know why you think the boat is slower than an IP 38.

Maybe the calcs were done using the sail area with a 100% Jib?

We find the boat to be fast. Ours came with the original main, a 110% jib, also original but unused and a 140% worn out mylar genoa which blew out.

Last year we bought a Rolly Tasker 150% genoa.

We found too much weather helm with the main and 110% jib but easily reached 7.6 knots just under the theoretical max hull speed of 7.77

With the genoa we can balance the boat and have no weather helm. We often can get the boat to self steer with an occasional touch to the wheel.

We reef early and appreciate the 3 reefing points and flattening reef in the main.

I'll look in more often on the forum, but as you say, no real activity.

Jack

Not a lot of activity here. How can we change that. I would love to see an Oday 39/40 and Sunfizz group. Combined there were only a couple of hundred
built.

I am new to Oday's but with the purchase of my 39, I am excited by all the positive feedback on these boats.

Still wonder why the boat is supposedly slower than an Island Packet 38...

I am in the SF area and would love to start a group, get more pictures of upgrades, and copies of manuals etc online.

Someone shout back if you are there.

Fair winds,

Sam

 

[RAD]

Jack
your within easy cruising distance to attend our rOnDAYvous.....always looking for new faces and boats

RAD

 

[Jack19539]

Rad,

Thanks for the invite. We also sail a Mac 26 classic and belong to the www.ne-ts.com group where we meet on Lake Champlain in July. We will check the dates and see what we can do.

Jack

 

[Richard9563]

I'm an O'Day 37 located in northeast Florida. Definately faster than an IP 38. Speed doesn't seem to an issue, pointing is. No backstay adjuster or traveler. Excellent boat on the ocean but frustrating in a confined race course.

Richard

 

[Jack19539]

Pointing

Richard,

Do you have a fractional rig? We have a backstay adjuster which we don't adjust. We have a 100% rig and make sure that the forestay is tight. For us it doesnt do more than that as we can't bend back the mast to flatten the main. The traveler does help but we have not found problems in pointing, especially after comparing with a Benateau 383 we chartered in the BVI.

In what conditions do you have problems in pointing? I found that baggy sails or a partially furled jib/genoa with no luff foam badly affected pointing.

In strong winds are you able to flatten your sails and point better?

Just some thoughts

 

[Kama2]

Oday 39

I have an Oday 39, just completed a full restoretion with multiple upgrates, took me 10 months of slaving work , everyday but now it is almost complete... I will post some pictures after the lounch day... I sail on Lake Ontario...Lets make theis alive and active, just as Hunter or Catalina owners, or perhaps they are so alive because they have soooo many problems and we don't :dance:

 

[Jack19539]

I have an Oday 39, just completed a full restoretion with multiple upgrates, took me 10 months of slaving work , everyday but now it is almost complete... I will post some pictures after the lounch day... I sail on Lake Ontario...Lets make theis alive and active, just as Hunter or Catalina owners, or perhaps they are so alive because they have soooo many problems and we don't :dance:

Did you by any chance rebed your shroud fittings? I am still battling to work out how to free the aluminum blocks under the deck. Any suggestions.

Also, I suffer from the forward doors not closing because the previous owner replaced the mast step with one about .5" higher. So my deck hold down pin in the mast is off the deck partner collar resulting in a "shrugging" deck. Anyone else have door closing problems?

 

[Kama2]

REbeding the shroud fittings

I did not like the deck fittings for the shrouds at all, I think they were just too flimsy and caused the deck to compress and leak. The U-bolt has a very thin stainless steel washer-like top plate on top of the deck and a substantial aluminum backing plate under the deck, so when you tighten the bolts it compresses the deck causing cracking and leaks. In the process of restoration I opened the deck around the fittings , build it up with glass mat and structural epoxy making it a solid glass structure, now the deck can not be compressed. The flimsy top plates were replaced with a stainless plates 1/8 thick and measures 3x5 for single U-bolt and 3x6 for double. The u-bolt was welded around where it passes through the plates and ptoperly throughbolted . To get to the nuts under the deck you nedd to take a socket wrench and slightly grind the outside parameter of the socket to make it fit into the opening for the nut - it sits in the recessed opening which is to small for a regular socket wrench. I dont like the aluminum backing plates because over the period of time aluminum turns in to powder as it corrodes, so in the future I plann do design a stainless backing plate. Hope this helps...

 

[Kama2]

Re: REbeding the shroud fittings

Forgot to add that yo can not remove the aluminum blocks since I believe, they were installed when the deck was off the hull in the factory... They would have to be cut and a new stainles backing plates would have to be made out of two pieces bolted together and than throughbolted with the U-bolts for the shrouds...

 

[Jack19539]

Re: REbeding the shroud fittings

I did not like the deck fittings for the shrouds at all, I think they were just too flimsy and caused the deck to compress and leak. The U-bolt has a very thin stainless steel washer-like top plate on top of the deck and a substantial aluminum backing plate under the deck, so when you tighten the bolts it compresses the deck causing cracking and leaks. In the process of restoration I opened the deck around the fittings , build it up with glass mat and structural epoxy making it a solid glass structure, now the deck can not be compressed. The flimsy top plates were replaced with a stainless plates 1/8 thick and measures 3x5 for single U-bolt and 3x6 for double. The u-bolt was welded around where it passes through the plates and ptoperly throughbolted . To get to the nuts under the deck you nedd to take a socket wrench and slightly grind the outside parameter of the socket to make it fit into the opening for the nut - it sits in the recessed opening which is to small for a regular socket wrench. I dont like the aluminum backing plates because over the period of time aluminum turns in to powder as it corrodes, so in the future I plann do design a stainless backing plate. Hope this helps...

Thanks for the input. I don't have cracking in the deck. When you opened up did you find balsa core around the u bolts or solid fiber glass. I have no problem in removing the nuts. My sockets go into the recess between the aluminum block and the nuts. My problem is that I cant remove the U bolts after removing the nuts. There is white corrosion between the aluminum blocks and threaded part of the U bolts.

I assume that the aluminum blocks have a nut at the top connected to the rod. Is this corrects? Did you replace your blocks?

Thanks

Jack

 

[Kama2]

[ My problem is that I cant remove the U bolts after removing the nuts. There is white corrosion between the aluminum blocks and threaded part of the U bolts] -- the unfortunate problem is that alu corroded around stainless and is holding it together.

[I assume that the aluminum blocks have a nut at the top connected to the rod. Is this corrects?] --- there is nothing holding the alu blocks to the rod. It is just the corrosin between the dissimilar metals and possibly some caulking material between the alu block and the underdeck. Did you replace your blocks? - not yet , but thaat is a plan for the future. i will definitely doo that befor we hit the big pond..
The structure of the deck around the shroud fittings is a core sandwich, that is why I got rid of balsa and filled it with structural epoxy and glass mat. Now the deck is not compresable under high tension of the shrouf mountinh plates/u-bols.

Thanks

Jack[/quote]

 

[Jack19539]

I cant believe that O Day would not re-enforce the deck around the U bolts. Theoretically there should be no forces on the deck if the rod tension is correct. But if not, then there will be problems. Maybe they made a change during the production period.

My hull was number 81, what number is yours. The number is on the original main sail and also in the HIN.

Thanks

 

[Kama2]

More on the chainplates/ deck fittings

Theoretically , yes, you are right the if the forses are distributed properly m the cored deck should be fine, but... if you compress the backing plate agaist thet flimsy little plate on top of the deck, then the deck may get "squeezed" a bit since the size of the chainplate- chroud deck fitting on top of thedeck is so small and thin...
I will have to chck my hull number - I have a Doyle stack pack for main, so the numbers off that will not help... Which number of the HIN is the hull #?
Thanks

 

[Kama2]

Re: More on the chainplates/ deck fittings

sorry for spelling errors ... it is 0330 a.m....

 

[Jack19539]

The definition of HIN can be found at http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
The hull serial number will begin at the 4th character and be made up of 5 characters. I am away from home at the moment but I believe that the first 3 characters should be XDY The last 4 characters give the date of manufacture/certification.

Do you have a full batton main to go with the stack pack?

We are designing a sail cover similar to the stack pack. We have partial battons. It will be interesting to see how it will work.

 

[Richard9563]

Richard,

Do you have a fractional rig? We have a backstay adjuster which we don't adjust. We have a 100% rig and make sure that the forestay is tight. For us it doesnt do more than that as we can't bend back the mast to flatten the main. The traveler does help but we have not found problems in pointing, especially after comparing with a Benateau 383 we chartered in the BVI.

In what conditions do you have problems in pointing? I found that baggy sails or a partially furled jib/genoa with no luff foam badly affected pointing.

In strong winds are you able to flatten your sails and point better?

Just some thoughts

Jack

Do not have a fractional rig or a backstay adjuster for the same reason you don't use yours, (mast won't bend). It wouldn't hurt to check the rig tension. Using a 130% furling headsail. Winds here are light to moderate most of the year, but when they do blow I have no problem pointing. I'll have to check on the luff foam. Sails are about 5 years old. All the boats in the club have travelers and seem to point better. I'm definately not ruling out operator skill.

Thanks for your input
Richard

 

[Kama2]

Full batten/stack pack

The main has 3 full battens and (I think) 2 partial. The actual sail cover has also a full lenght battens on both sides of the cover, to keep the cover straight and allow the sail to fall into when lowered. A tip for you when you design your cover: the cover ,as you know has to have a system similar to lazy jacks, the trick is to arrange the lazy jack lines in such a way that when you are ready to rise the main , yo can lower the lasy jack lines almost all the way down so the full battens don't get caught in the lazy jack lines if/when you are not pointing directly into the wind when raising the maisail. I hope this makes some sense as I am not an expert in explaining things...

 

[james turner]

Re: REbeding the shroud fittings

Yes, you can remove the aluminum blocks on the underside of the deck. They seem to be held on with some kind of adhesive but, they are removeable. I used a thin putty knife, a hammer and a lot of patience. Good luck, keep working on it, they will come off..