I need to re-calk my deck to rubrail on my H23. I'm not removing it, just want to calk the seam. I searched the archives and some have used clear marine grade silicone. Others say silicone is a poor sealant and doesn't last. should I use Marine grade silicone or Boatlife Lifecalk. I have both. thanks James
calking rubrail
- Thread starter jbreland
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Removing it...
...is not a big deal (I have replaced mine with a new one), and I found all sorts of horrors underneath. *pop The 23 is prone to water ingress under the rail through the hull/deck screws, which work loose over the years. All mine needed to be tightened. If you only put a bead on the outside of the rail, you risk hiding a problem, not fixing it. Secondly, sealing the bottom edge seals water in above the sealant. Silicone will work fine if you really clean and scrub and and then wipe down with acetone to remove all traces of wax, etc.first, but I used 5200, taping first so that it didn't droop all over and make a mess. Since you have boatlife, that would be a more pemanent solution. Good luck.
...is not a big deal (I have replaced mine with a new one), and I found all sorts of horrors underneath. *pop The 23 is prone to water ingress under the rail through the hull/deck screws, which work loose over the years. All mine needed to be tightened. If you only put a bead on the outside of the rail, you risk hiding a problem, not fixing it. Secondly, sealing the bottom edge seals water in above the sealant. Silicone will work fine if you really clean and scrub and and then wipe down with acetone to remove all traces of wax, etc.first, but I used 5200, taping first so that it didn't droop all over and make a mess. Since you have boatlife, that would be a more pemanent solution. Good luck.
I agree
Remove any crud with a good solvent, and back out all deck screws. Then use 5200 on the deck screws. You can use the stuff you already have for the seam. Do it right, and you won't have to do it again. Good luck.
Remove any crud with a good solvent, and back out all deck screws. Then use 5200 on the deck screws. You can use the stuff you already have for the seam. Do it right, and you won't have to do it again. Good luck.
Another view
Hi James - you may have seen my posts on this in the archives. I just used clear silicone on the top edge where the rub rail meets the hull. What Chris says is correct, but I didn't seal underneath. My water infiltration was from rain seeping in, not from burying the rail under sail. Everything Dave and Chris said is right. Still, after reading all the rub rail replacement archived articles, I decided to focus my energy and time elsewhere. The Admiral and I, along with my son and his buddy probably had over 300 hours of refit time last spring and just decided to draw the line and go sailing as is before the entire season was shot. Anyway, I accept that I'll probably need to run another bead of caulk around it before launching this spring. I have not excluded the possibility of going back and doing the job the right way, eventually. This year's primary projects will most likely involve replacing some of the standing rig and upgrading some of the running rig, so I'll live with my quick fix on the rub rail for another season.
Hi James - you may have seen my posts on this in the archives. I just used clear silicone on the top edge where the rub rail meets the hull. What Chris says is correct, but I didn't seal underneath. My water infiltration was from rain seeping in, not from burying the rail under sail. Everything Dave and Chris said is right. Still, after reading all the rub rail replacement archived articles, I decided to focus my energy and time elsewhere. The Admiral and I, along with my son and his buddy probably had over 300 hours of refit time last spring and just decided to draw the line and go sailing as is before the entire season was shot. Anyway, I accept that I'll probably need to run another bead of caulk around it before launching this spring. I have not excluded the possibility of going back and doing the job the right way, eventually. This year's primary projects will most likely involve replacing some of the standing rig and upgrading some of the running rig, so I'll live with my quick fix on the rub rail for another season.
How do you remove the rubrail?
I have a hunter 310 and would like to know how to remove/reinstall the rubrail and caulk underneath. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Lee
I have a hunter 310 and would like to know how to remove/reinstall the rubrail and caulk underneath. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Lee
Great timing for this post
Great timing for this post. Just yesterday I started to scrape-off, clean and reapply 4200 to my rub-rail. Once I began removing the old "caulk", I noticed a lot of space / a vaccum in-between the rail and the hull. In some places (20% of linear area), it is soft and you can move it easily.... There was even some junk in there! I only did about half of the port side and then stopped. I stopped because, I just felt that I was doing a half azz job. I am planning on launching the boat on Saturday / Sunday, but since it is going to be cold down here in Central Florida {yes, It has been very cold} I would like to take the rub rail off, clean, and re-install. It is not in bad shape, I just needs to be "done right". Any step-by-step / recommended applications / or pictures of the rail coming off or being re-attached would be great. I read here that they have screws, but can you pull the black rail and the white rubber belt separately or are they one piece? If it is one piece, where are the screws? BTW, I learned how to solder yesterday, now I just need to learn where the spell check and edit controls are for this Forum.... Thank you in advance for your anticipated response(s).. Frank
Great timing for this post. Just yesterday I started to scrape-off, clean and reapply 4200 to my rub-rail. Once I began removing the old "caulk", I noticed a lot of space / a vaccum in-between the rail and the hull. In some places (20% of linear area), it is soft and you can move it easily.... There was even some junk in there! I only did about half of the port side and then stopped. I stopped because, I just felt that I was doing a half azz job. I am planning on launching the boat on Saturday / Sunday, but since it is going to be cold down here in Central Florida {yes, It has been very cold} I would like to take the rub rail off, clean, and re-install. It is not in bad shape, I just needs to be "done right". Any step-by-step / recommended applications / or pictures of the rail coming off or being re-attached would be great. I read here that they have screws, but can you pull the black rail and the white rubber belt separately or are they one piece? If it is one piece, where are the screws? BTW, I learned how to solder yesterday, now I just need to learn where the spell check and edit controls are for this Forum.... Thank you in advance for your anticipated response(s).. Frank
No to 3M 5200
5200 is a permanent adhesive and shouldn't be used for applications that may need to be disassembled in the future.
5200 is a permanent adhesive and shouldn't be used for applications that may need to be disassembled in the future.
Yes, they are separate
pieces. Remove the cover in the middle of the transom and carefully pry out the insert on a warm day or use a heat gun/hair dryer. Pull out the insert and you expose the screws holding the base to the deck/hull joint.
pieces. Remove the cover in the middle of the transom and carefully pry out the insert on a warm day or use a heat gun/hair dryer. Pull out the insert and you expose the screws holding the base to the deck/hull joint.
Chris, question
Chris, if the base and the black rubber belt are in good shape, am I going to be OK, pulling the whole thing off, cleaning under, re-screwing and applying 4200 all around. Is is going to go back on "Rico and Suave" or am I going to be handling an old rub rail? Chris, Would you buy a new rail or try to replace with the "old" one? I am not to keen on cosmetics, I just want it done right and watertight.
Chris, if the base and the black rubber belt are in good shape, am I going to be OK, pulling the whole thing off, cleaning under, re-screwing and applying 4200 all around. Is is going to go back on "Rico and Suave" or am I going to be handling an old rub rail? Chris, Would you buy a new rail or try to replace with the "old" one? I am not to keen on cosmetics, I just want it done right and watertight.
depends
We removed our black rubber, and used a rubber restorer on it. It made it much more plyable, and less brittle. We also removed the metal track all the way around. You will be amazed how big the gap is between the deck and the hull. Water comes in from the deck screws as well. If you remove the rubber you might as well go all the way and remove the metal. Just label which peice came from where. Not a fun job, but it was the most important job we had done yet. If you trailer the boat the vibrations will lossen the old caulking between the hull and deck. Good luck.
We removed our black rubber, and used a rubber restorer on it. It made it much more plyable, and less brittle. We also removed the metal track all the way around. You will be amazed how big the gap is between the deck and the hull. Water comes in from the deck screws as well. If you remove the rubber you might as well go all the way and remove the metal. Just label which peice came from where. Not a fun job, but it was the most important job we had done yet. If you trailer the boat the vibrations will lossen the old caulking between the hull and deck. Good luck.
Depends
on the condition of your original. I replaced mine with a Taco unit with a slightly different profile and color (the new one has a black base and a white filler) because of the PO had a close encounter with a piling on both sides and the rail base split and cracked. I know of a 1986 23 where the original rail came off and was replaced without incident as the rail was as good as new. Remember, the plastic is workable when warm, so do it on a warm day! In winter, the stuff gets brittle.
on the condition of your original. I replaced mine with a Taco unit with a slightly different profile and color (the new one has a black base and a white filler) because of the PO had a close encounter with a piling on both sides and the rail base split and cracked. I know of a 1986 23 where the original rail came off and was replaced without incident as the rail was as good as new. Remember, the plastic is workable when warm, so do it on a warm day! In winter, the stuff gets brittle.
I got a call into Hunter
I have a call into Hunter in Gainesville. I want a quote on a new one and if they can give me a part number. I was looking through Boat US Catalog last night, I just do not know which type of Railing to get, that's why I call hunter.... I want to know the correct length and the recommended type of rub rail to get. Too cold down here this weekend to do any outside work, but next weekend might be in the lower 80's.... More after Hunter calls back, if they do..
I have a call into Hunter in Gainesville. I want a quote on a new one and if they can give me a part number. I was looking through Boat US Catalog last night, I just do not know which type of Railing to get, that's why I call hunter.... I want to know the correct length and the recommended type of rub rail to get. Too cold down here this weekend to do any outside work, but next weekend might be in the lower 80's.... More after Hunter calls back, if they do..
I got a call into Hunter
I have a call into Hunter in Gainesville. I want a quote on a new one and if they can give me a part number. I was looking through Boat US Catalog last night, I just do not know which type of Railing to get, that's why I call hunter.... I want to know the correct length and the recommended type of rub rail to get. Too cold down here this weekend to do any outside work, but next weekend might be in the lower 80's.... More after Hunter calls back, if they do..
I have a call into Hunter in Gainesville. I want a quote on a new one and if they can give me a part number. I was looking through Boat US Catalog last night, I just do not know which type of Railing to get, that's why I call hunter.... I want to know the correct length and the recommended type of rub rail to get. Too cold down here this weekend to do any outside work, but next weekend might be in the lower 80's.... More after Hunter calls back, if they do..
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Replace with new
Decided to order new: Part # 1078 White Rigid Part (57') Part # 878 Black Insert (57') from Hamilton Marine {as per Hunter Marine} and replace the whole thing with a new parts. Saw a video in Ship Shape Marine web-site, and it does not look too hard. Will take some pics and post after it is all done!
Decided to order new: Part # 1078 White Rigid Part (57') Part # 878 Black Insert (57') from Hamilton Marine {as per Hunter Marine} and replace the whole thing with a new parts. Saw a video in Ship Shape Marine web-site, and it does not look too hard. Will take some pics and post after it is all done!
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