Cal 28 outhaul rigging
- Thread starter Boat Babe
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Tie a line
Before you remove the outhaul line from the boom tie a replacement line or guide wire and run it through. It would be quite a job if not.
Before you remove the outhaul line from the boom tie a replacement line or guide wire and run it through. It would be quite a job if not.
rove a messenger line
I just said what Benny said in sailor-ese. If you securely tape small messenger lines to each line you're removing it may not matter what's going on inside, since you reverse the process to rove them back through.
I just said what Benny said in sailor-ese. If you securely tape small messenger lines to each line you're removing it may not matter what's going on inside, since you reverse the process to rove them back through.
Remove end caps from the boom.
I recently removed all the components from my boom (Starwind 27) so I could paint it. I found that you will need to remove the end caps if you want to change the outhaul line if it is rigged like mine and I suspect the way mine is, is standard. I pulled out the entire works to replace the rope. I left the wire in place. There are two fiddle blocks inside the boom. The block at the tack end is probably fixed on a pin just inside the end cap (close enough to get your hand on it). This block will have the outhaul rope spliced to it. The block at the clew end will have the wire outhaul swaged to it. This block is free to travel inside the boom. The outhaul rope passes around both blocks (the clew end twice) before exiting at the end cap giving you 3 to 1 purchase (I guess, is this right?) Now just thinking about it, I suppose you could simply remove the end cap at the tack end and get that block out so you can remove the old splice, use the old line as a messenger and feed the new line in and then splice it to the block. You'll have to remove the tack end of the boom it seems. HTH, Scott
I recently removed all the components from my boom (Starwind 27) so I could paint it. I found that you will need to remove the end caps if you want to change the outhaul line if it is rigged like mine and I suspect the way mine is, is standard. I pulled out the entire works to replace the rope. I left the wire in place. There are two fiddle blocks inside the boom. The block at the tack end is probably fixed on a pin just inside the end cap (close enough to get your hand on it). This block will have the outhaul rope spliced to it. The block at the clew end will have the wire outhaul swaged to it. This block is free to travel inside the boom. The outhaul rope passes around both blocks (the clew end twice) before exiting at the end cap giving you 3 to 1 purchase (I guess, is this right?) Now just thinking about it, I suppose you could simply remove the end cap at the tack end and get that block out so you can remove the old splice, use the old line as a messenger and feed the new line in and then splice it to the block. You'll have to remove the tack end of the boom it seems. HTH, Scott
removing end caps off boom
Scott, thanks for your reply. I think your'e right but I think there is only one block inside fixed to the tack end fo the boom and the other is free inside fixed to the cable, the one end of the line and a sheave. BUT, the ends of the boom are rivetted on... Should I knock them off then use screws to re attach them or have them professionally re-rivetted? Thanks. Steph
Scott, thanks for your reply. I think your'e right but I think there is only one block inside fixed to the tack end fo the boom and the other is free inside fixed to the cable, the one end of the line and a sheave. BUT, the ends of the boom are rivetted on... Should I knock them off then use screws to re attach them or have them professionally re-rivetted? Thanks. Steph
Ends can be attached with stainless screws.
I think rivets will be easy to drill out and either replaced again or use stainless steel screws. My end caps had 3 small screws for each end. They were not easy to remove. Two of them were frozen and I broke the head as I tried to force them ... not good. With more patience and lubricating oil, I probably could have removed them without breaking the heads. Patience is not my long suit.
Drilling them out (stailess steel) was a lot harder done than said. I had to go to a larger bit and use a larger screw to reassemble. I think it may be easier to deal with rivets in retrospect. I think that with a rivet gun, you could do it yourself easily enough. It sounds like your set-up is principally the same. On mine, the cable end is attached to a block that is free to travel inside the boom. Only the block at the tack end is fixed to a pin. Either way, you have to get inside the boom to take out the spliced end of the line.
I think rivets will be easy to drill out and either replaced again or use stainless steel screws. My end caps had 3 small screws for each end. They were not easy to remove. Two of them were frozen and I broke the head as I tried to force them ... not good. With more patience and lubricating oil, I probably could have removed them without breaking the heads. Patience is not my long suit.
Drilling them out (stailess steel) was a lot harder done than said. I had to go to a larger bit and use a larger screw to reassemble. I think it may be easier to deal with rivets in retrospect. I think that with a rivet gun, you could do it yourself easily enough. It sounds like your set-up is principally the same. On mine, the cable end is attached to a block that is free to travel inside the boom. Only the block at the tack end is fixed to a pin. Either way, you have to get inside the boom to take out the spliced end of the line.- Status