Cal 28-2 Toerails

[Smitty]

Can anyone tell me how the toerails are attached on an '86 Cal 28-2? My port rail is split at the aftermost scarf joint. Water has gotten in and made a mess. The previous owner had done all the brightwork with Bristol (I hate it). So, I'm going to take the brightwork down to bare wood and sand it then refinish using Cetol. I need to fix this toerail in the process, and I'm not really sure how they're attached. If anyone can tell me, I'd sure appreciate it.

--Smitty

 

[Chuckq1]

I have an '86 Cal33 and used to have a Cal22 and the toe rails are just teak held down with counterbored screws and filled with a teak plug. This should be seen in the damaged area but you should be able to see the plugs where the screws are hiding. You might be able to drill out the plug and remove the screw but you're probably going to replace the rail in the damage area anyway so you will destroy the teak there while removing the screw. The tricky part is making a new scarf joint or just replace the whole rail on that side. An entire new rail might be easier in which case you just destroy the old one while removing it.
The hatch problem is kind of odd because the outer hole is bigger than the hatch flange. How did it ever fit? It that's true then I'd make new teak flange to fit between the deck and the hatch. I'd also fill the gap between the inner deckhouse and the deck with more teak and with a healthy amount of caulking. Otherwise, I'd investigate a new hatch that fits the deck hole better. There's a lot of new hatches on the market.
We really like our Cal and think they are well worth fixing up.
Best of luck,
Chuck

 

[Angus20305]

Chuckq1 is correct. I took all the toerail and rubrail off my '86 28-2 several years ago. I had several leaks in the ares of the the hull-to-deck joint and wasn't sure if it was stanchions or the toe rail screws, so I rebedded all of it. No leaks since. I also was t-boned during a race and had to replace a section of toerail. A good carpenter can make an inconspicuous splice assuming you have the right stock to work with. Good luck.

angus

 

[E25sailboat]

A easy and safe way to remove the teak bungs (plug) is to run a dry wall screw through the center of the bung, until it bottoms out. Keep turning the screw in and it will push the bung out, with out damageing the parent wood. Good luck.

 

[berner73]

Smitty,

Did you have any luck with this? We just bought an 86 Cal w/ the same problem, except ours is SB side aft. Did you cut the bad piece out or try to fix it?