Cabosil, or ???
So, I have the Lewmar V3 windlass disassembled. It takes 4 M8 studs under the deck plate, through the deck (~1/4" fiberglass), a substantial (~1.5") wood core, another fiberglass layer, and my 1/4" aluminum backing plate, with washers and nuts to hold up the motor and gear case.
Whether a matter of poor installation at the time (try drilling exactly placed holes exactly vertically, which is what's needed to be able to drop the deck-plate-mounted studs down the holes) which then required wallowing the hole(s), or the reason for our disassembly, that being that the deck plate had crept forward enough to cause a misalignment in the shaft, resulting in a squeak as it turned. The backing plate holes are pretty much round and of the right size, so didn't require attention.
I will be completely servicing the windlass, including new studs (at least one of them was not perfectly vertical any more), so they will be perfectly vertical to the windlass base.
To remedy the now-sloppy deck holes, and to avoid a repetition of the creep and resultant shaft misalignment, I'm thinking along the lines of drilling (Forstner bit, nice clean edged hole) a 1" hole down to the backing plate (removing all the material in a 1" column directly over that backing plate hole). I'd coat the fiberglass and wood core with epoxy to start, and then use it as a form, while the epoxy hadn't yet cured. Think of a concrete piling made from a bored hole and filled with concrete to get the effect.
After filling and hardening/curing, I'd drill down, using a tool I don't have (I need recommendations on that, please), perfectly vertically on the centers of the stud pattern. I'd rely on the strength of whatever I used in that hole to withstand potential shear loadings if the base tried to creep forward under load in the future.
And thus to the topic. Bearing in mind that I'd have to drill down close to 2" to get to the backing plate, is epoxy (say West Systems) with Cabosil sufficient to achieve that hardness? My original thought had been to get a cutoff from a prop shaft and machine out the center (drill chuck to lathe turn) to the appropriate size to fit into my Forstner-bored hole. Except that would require even more precision, during the boring process, in order to guarantee that the milled holes were exactly in the right place and exactly vertical, to boot.
Is there anything I can put in these bores which will be very strong but not brittle, and reasonably drilled after they've cured? Cabosil makes several different products, so I'm somewhat uncertain if what I have in stock is appropriately a "structural adhesive" as it seems to be called in the trade. If Cabosil's the answer, which of their products do I use?
I've used Belzona to good effect previously, but it was a courtesy couple of spoonfuls I got from a machine shop; otherwise it's only available in commercial quantities. JBWeld or similars may be other options.
So, two questions:
Have you used something for a similar purpose, or know of how to determine specs as to shatter/deformation resistance in such an application? If you were doing it, what would you use (no offense, but I'd prefer not to have guesses, please; I don’t want to do this again)?
And, how do you make absolutely vertical bores (drilling for the studs)? Is there a tool that will do that? It's not like I can take the deck to a machine shop to mount in a jig
Well, maybe a third. If you understand my challenge, is there something you'd do differently to get to the same end - exactly fitted holes which have sufficient strength to resist, perhaps, a 500# or greater side pull at the shear line?
Thanks.
L8R
Skip
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog
When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not
fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson
So, I have the Lewmar V3 windlass disassembled. It takes 4 M8 studs under the deck plate, through the deck (~1/4" fiberglass), a substantial (~1.5") wood core, another fiberglass layer, and my 1/4" aluminum backing plate, with washers and nuts to hold up the motor and gear case.
Whether a matter of poor installation at the time (try drilling exactly placed holes exactly vertically, which is what's needed to be able to drop the deck-plate-mounted studs down the holes) which then required wallowing the hole(s), or the reason for our disassembly, that being that the deck plate had crept forward enough to cause a misalignment in the shaft, resulting in a squeak as it turned. The backing plate holes are pretty much round and of the right size, so didn't require attention.
I will be completely servicing the windlass, including new studs (at least one of them was not perfectly vertical any more), so they will be perfectly vertical to the windlass base.
To remedy the now-sloppy deck holes, and to avoid a repetition of the creep and resultant shaft misalignment, I'm thinking along the lines of drilling (Forstner bit, nice clean edged hole) a 1" hole down to the backing plate (removing all the material in a 1" column directly over that backing plate hole). I'd coat the fiberglass and wood core with epoxy to start, and then use it as a form, while the epoxy hadn't yet cured. Think of a concrete piling made from a bored hole and filled with concrete to get the effect.
After filling and hardening/curing, I'd drill down, using a tool I don't have (I need recommendations on that, please), perfectly vertically on the centers of the stud pattern. I'd rely on the strength of whatever I used in that hole to withstand potential shear loadings if the base tried to creep forward under load in the future.
And thus to the topic. Bearing in mind that I'd have to drill down close to 2" to get to the backing plate, is epoxy (say West Systems) with Cabosil sufficient to achieve that hardness? My original thought had been to get a cutoff from a prop shaft and machine out the center (drill chuck to lathe turn) to the appropriate size to fit into my Forstner-bored hole. Except that would require even more precision, during the boring process, in order to guarantee that the milled holes were exactly in the right place and exactly vertical, to boot.
Is there anything I can put in these bores which will be very strong but not brittle, and reasonably drilled after they've cured? Cabosil makes several different products, so I'm somewhat uncertain if what I have in stock is appropriately a "structural adhesive" as it seems to be called in the trade. If Cabosil's the answer, which of their products do I use?
I've used Belzona to good effect previously, but it was a courtesy couple of spoonfuls I got from a machine shop; otherwise it's only available in commercial quantities. JBWeld or similars may be other options.
So, two questions:
Have you used something for a similar purpose, or know of how to determine specs as to shatter/deformation resistance in such an application? If you were doing it, what would you use (no offense, but I'd prefer not to have guesses, please; I don’t want to do this again)?
And, how do you make absolutely vertical bores (drilling for the studs)? Is there a tool that will do that? It's not like I can take the deck to a machine shop to mount in a jig
Well, maybe a third. If you understand my challenge, is there something you'd do differently to get to the same end - exactly fitted holes which have sufficient strength to resist, perhaps, a 500# or greater side pull at the shear line?
Thanks.
L8R
Skip
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog
When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not
fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson
