The teak handrails on the cabin top of our 1981 H-30 have 8 loops each. I have checked with "defender" and "marinco", they do not have 8 loop handrails. Any suggestions on where to purchase? This will be a spring time project as the original rails are weathered very thin.
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No more varnish.
You could look at plastic teak. The Related Link company will match your rails exactly. They will send samples for color choice. But if your boat is a restoration then you will not want plastic. So far I have replaced handrails, dorade lids, traveler mounts, and cabin trim. No more teak maintenance!
You could look at plastic teak. The Related Link company will match your rails exactly. They will send samples for color choice. But if your boat is a restoration then you will not want plastic. So far I have replaced handrails, dorade lids, traveler mounts, and cabin trim. No more teak maintenance!
Make your own
I made my own for Diana using mahogany, not teak. On the H25 Mk 1 they replace the toerails along the ridge of the 'flush-deck type' cabin top. I have not bedded them down yet, pending other stuff to do on the deck structure first. First I did them to match the toerails' mounting holes at 10-inch centers. I was all ready to cut them out when we rescued an old Cherubini 44 display unit, a segment of hull, deck, cabin and cabintop used at boat shows to illustrate the construction methods. On the top was one of our 1976-vintage handrails. I took a couple of quick measurements-- and boy, was I glad I did! After mimicking that one the new handrails are about the most perfect thing to hold onto ever devised. Moreover the thinner section allows them to bend down along the curve of Diana's deck/cabintop. The little boat never looked more yachtlike, and unlike Hunter's cheap teak sticks they are high enough to actually catch your foot in a good heel angle. I prefer mahogany over teak for the traditional look, ease of varnishing, and ease of working. I have seen cheap teak (the grade which we are all most likely to buy retail) split, check, crack, and-- yes-- rot. I believe even plain Asian mahogany, properly varnished, is prettier than pukey olive teak anyway. Whether you choose teak to match the rest of the boat or mahogany in changing all the deck wood over, as I am doing, consider making them yourself. All you need is a good template, a good jigsaw, and a fair eye. Running them through a molder is best; you can also set up a guide stick and use a handheld router. Remember to sand everything fair before finishing. Don't be afraid-- you'll be surprised how little your minor booboos will show when they're faired properly. JC 2
I made my own for Diana using mahogany, not teak. On the H25 Mk 1 they replace the toerails along the ridge of the 'flush-deck type' cabin top. I have not bedded them down yet, pending other stuff to do on the deck structure first. First I did them to match the toerails' mounting holes at 10-inch centers. I was all ready to cut them out when we rescued an old Cherubini 44 display unit, a segment of hull, deck, cabin and cabintop used at boat shows to illustrate the construction methods. On the top was one of our 1976-vintage handrails. I took a couple of quick measurements-- and boy, was I glad I did! After mimicking that one the new handrails are about the most perfect thing to hold onto ever devised. Moreover the thinner section allows them to bend down along the curve of Diana's deck/cabintop. The little boat never looked more yachtlike, and unlike Hunter's cheap teak sticks they are high enough to actually catch your foot in a good heel angle. I prefer mahogany over teak for the traditional look, ease of varnishing, and ease of working. I have seen cheap teak (the grade which we are all most likely to buy retail) split, check, crack, and-- yes-- rot. I believe even plain Asian mahogany, properly varnished, is prettier than pukey olive teak anyway. Whether you choose teak to match the rest of the boat or mahogany in changing all the deck wood over, as I am doing, consider making them yourself. All you need is a good template, a good jigsaw, and a fair eye. Running them through a molder is best; you can also set up a guide stick and use a handheld router. Remember to sand everything fair before finishing. Don't be afraid-- you'll be surprised how little your minor booboos will show when they're faired properly. JC 2
make 'em
I've made a bunch of them, it's not hard at all. Buy some teak lumber that suits you, lay an old handrail, or a piece of one, on the board, mark it with a pencil and then just use your saber saw to cut out the loops. Then, using an angle grinder with a sanding disk, round the edges. Once they are pretty much shaped, use a vibrating sander with about 30 to 80 grit to finishthe shape of the edges. Hit it with some 120, then 220 and you're done. It's not nearly as hard as you might think to get a good look. Even if you don't have the 3 tools needed, you can probably buy the teak, tools and finish them for less than you'll end up paying, plus the loops will be the correct sizes. It took me about 2 to 3 hours to make some like you are needing.
I've made a bunch of them, it's not hard at all. Buy some teak lumber that suits you, lay an old handrail, or a piece of one, on the board, mark it with a pencil and then just use your saber saw to cut out the loops. Then, using an angle grinder with a sanding disk, round the edges. Once they are pretty much shaped, use a vibrating sander with about 30 to 80 grit to finishthe shape of the edges. Hit it with some 120, then 220 and you're done. It's not nearly as hard as you might think to get a good look. Even if you don't have the 3 tools needed, you can probably buy the teak, tools and finish them for less than you'll end up paying, plus the loops will be the correct sizes. It took me about 2 to 3 hours to make some like you are needing.
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