The center cabin sole seems too be coming apart. Has anyone experienced this and if so how did you fix it or what did you replace it with.
Cabin sole replacment
- Thread starter garyc
- Start date
- Status
Midnight Sun's cabin sole was replaced with teak parque tile 20 some years ago and has held up well.
Hey GaryC, Had the same problem with sole in my 1984 h27 a few years ago. Larger piece was delaminating and getting mushy. Looked into having new teal/holly sole made but was shocked at $600 price tag and that was for just one of the two sole pieces in the newer h27's. I saw an add for teak/holly plywood on Ship Shape TV show. Company is World Panel Products (www.worldpanel.com) and luck for me, they had a location in Eastern NC (Windsor). Anyway, paid $200 for 4X8 sheet, 3/4 inch teak and holly marine plywood. I made both sole pieces and also made a new top step, just inside the gangway. I still have a little left. Had to be extra careful on cutting - used original as template, but worked out great. Here in picture.
Attachments
Thanks for the reply. I have a 82 hunter and i don't think the sole is 3/4 inch thick. It will have to wait until summer before i get a chance to measure .
A number of years ago I did the sole of my H33. The original rotting mouldy teak and holly ply was fastened with screws (teak plugs) and silicone. I removed the wood, scraped off the silicone, sanded the bare gelcoat and put a non-skid rubberized paint on it. I left the sump covering original. Looked good and was totally functional. With all the wood we have in the interiors we really don't need more wood on the sole. With my current 37C, I will refinish the original t&h sole but when it wears out or gets totally grungy, I will remove it and paint. I will pick a colour which will highlight the rest of the interior. Wood soles are not necessary, are expensive and add nothing to the boat's structure.
That said, there are some great products available as alternatives to t&s ply. The look just about as good and are far less maintenance, nothing sticks to them or stains them (not even epoxy resin), they are good nonskid and dent/scratch impervious. But be willing to spend the bucks. I would rather put the money into something useful like electronics, sails, solar or bunk cushions.
That said, there are some great products available as alternatives to t&s ply. The look just about as good and are far less maintenance, nothing sticks to them or stains them (not even epoxy resin), they are good nonskid and dent/scratch impervious. But be willing to spend the bucks. I would rather put the money into something useful like electronics, sails, solar or bunk cushions.
Sandpiper, FYI the space under the sole on an h27 is the sump - about 4-6inches deep and spanning the entire space under the soles. Simply scraping and painting is not a option - must sole must have solid structure. Teak/holly lywood is quite useful - and attractive too.
Amcmahon - so when you lift those large t&h panels you see the bottom of the boat? That would explain the 3/4" ply.
I used Lonseal http://www.worldpanel.com/lonseal.htm
It's plastic, very durable and will outlast the boat. Teak and holly looks like real wood and I think that most modern production boats use the stuff now. They will send you a sample. Took only about a day to do the entire sole.
It's plastic, very durable and will outlast the boat. Teak and holly looks like real wood and I think that most modern production boats use the stuff now. They will send you a sample. Took only about a day to do the entire sole.
That's right, now I remember: http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=665455&highlight=and . And it would be easy to shim the grate to bring it up to the Lonseal height. I had forgotten that it is so thin. So I see you were around last July Richard. Then suddenly you reappear here in January!
Amcmahon, one more question. Did the use of 3/4" thick board negate the use of wood stringer pieces. My rotting floor had stringers running along the underside of the sole panels. The panels themselves were 1/2". If the extra 1/4" means no stringers, I think that is an excellent plan.
That's correct - no stringers needed. Actually the size listed on World Panel is 18 mm. I've had mine 4 years now and still solid. Be sure to seal all 4 sides - this is still plywood and with a few inches of water usually in the bildge of the h27, you need to keep sides sealed. I used a jig saw to cut (very carefully) then finished fit with a belt sander. Good luck.
Make your Own?
I recently made a new cabin sole for a 82 Hunter 30. The old floor came out in pieces, so I made a craft paper template. The base is 1/4 inch marine that has two coats epoxy on each side and three coats on all edges. Strips of teak and maple veneer were cut. The maple was stained to be similar in appearance to holly. Contact cement was used to attach the veneer. Then, six coats of clear varnish was applied.
The clear varnish is too slippery when wet. I read on this site about applying a final coat of varnish and sprinkling crushed rock salt when partly dry. Then washing off the salt. This is supposed to leave a roughened surface for the shoes/feet to grip. I will try this on a scrap before doing it to the entire sole. Since I have not installed the floor, it can be washed outside. BTW, the sole is too big to go through the companionway in one piece. It was cut in two, along a seam between veneer strips and looks fine.
The photo shows the sample with two coats of varnish. The teak strips are narrower than the traditional sole.
Except for the satisfaction of doing it yourself, I recommend buying a manufactured sheet of teak and holly, even if it is $200.00. I spent close to that amount on the marine plywood, veneer and varnish and probably about 20 hours.
I recently made a new cabin sole for a 82 Hunter 30. The old floor came out in pieces, so I made a craft paper template. The base is 1/4 inch marine that has two coats epoxy on each side and three coats on all edges. Strips of teak and maple veneer were cut. The maple was stained to be similar in appearance to holly. Contact cement was used to attach the veneer. Then, six coats of clear varnish was applied.
The clear varnish is too slippery when wet. I read on this site about applying a final coat of varnish and sprinkling crushed rock salt when partly dry. Then washing off the salt. This is supposed to leave a roughened surface for the shoes/feet to grip. I will try this on a scrap before doing it to the entire sole. Since I have not installed the floor, it can be washed outside. BTW, the sole is too big to go through the companionway in one piece. It was cut in two, along a seam between veneer strips and looks fine.
The photo shows the sample with two coats of varnish. The teak strips are narrower than the traditional sole.
Except for the satisfaction of doing it yourself, I recommend buying a manufactured sheet of teak and holly, even if it is $200.00. I spent close to that amount on the marine plywood, veneer and varnish and probably about 20 hours.
Attachments
I am following this posting with much interest: my sole is not all that bad, but is rather dull and lost a lot of the colour: can it be sanded and varnished again?
Also, some of the pieces are shinier than others, so is that ( varnish) an option?
And what kind do you suggest?
Thanks for any advice
Also, some of the pieces are shinier than others, so is that ( varnish) an option?
And what kind do you suggest?
Thanks for any advice
- Status