Cabin sole delamination

[Tom Wootton]

Just noticed this yesterday. It's only in one spot, starting at the aft edge by the galley and going forward about 4". Does anyone have a method for fixing this, other than replacing the entire teak and holly sole? Failing that, how big/expensive a job is removing and replacing the sole? It appears to be glued into a recess molded into the fiberglass. Has anyone done this? What adhesive is used and how does it come out?ThanksTom

 

[Don Barber]

Here's How

Don't replace your cabin sole. Mine was delaminating in several places when I acquired my boat. Just unscrew the sole and lift it out. I fixed the delamination by using a hypodermic syringe to inject waterproof glue beneath the wood strips that had loosened. I then covered the area with waxed paper, and placed weights over the glued strips. This worked fine. Next, I used a marine-grade stripper and took as much of the finsih off of the cabin sole as I could. I used steel wool in combination with the stripper. (After the stripper had set on the surface for a while, I removed with the steel wool.) After the surface was smooth and free of the old finish, I used a marine grade water-proof finish (Cetol). After 3 coats, the sole looked fantastic (better than new). I glued it down with silicon rubber, replaced the screws, and sealed the edge with black silicon sealant. It was definitely worth the effort, and I know that it will not delaminate again. I plan to re-coat it with Cetol when needed. I gave the same treatment to the table. In my case, there was a huge mildew stain on it. This I removed by soaking it with a mixture of oxalic acid and water. I then stripped and prepped it. The Cetol finish worked beautifully. Good luck with your project.Don BarberS/V Third Degree

 

[Tom Wootton]

Unscrew it?

Don, I don't recall seeing any screws. I'll look closer next time I'm on the boat, but Hunter told me the sole is caulked in place. (Maybe the method was different for different years--mine's a '95.) They're working me up a price for a replacement sole, but unless it's really cheap (unlikely--it's cut from a full sheet) I like your solution better.Thanks, Tom

 

[Don Barber]

Unscrewing the Sole

Tom,My boat is a '97, and the sole is screwed down in about 12 places. My sole was calked in place, also. After I removed the screws, the sole was still held in place by the calking. I simply drew a sharp knife around the perimeter of the sole, and then pried it up with a wide bladed screw driver. There was some additional silicone calking on the bottom, also. Before I replaced my finished sole, I scraped off as much of the old calking as I could. It should be easy for you to remove and replace that sole. Don't waste your money on a new one when your old one can literally look twice as good as new. Good luck.DonS/V Third Degree

 

[Bernie]

Replacing the sole

I have a new sole from Hunter to replace one that has badly discolored from a battery acid spill on my 2000 H260. I intend to get around to replacing it this fall after I put several shiny coats of teak finish on the new floor. Hunter told me that my boat's sole was glued down with liquid nails. Today, they recommend using 3M 5200. The sole's circumference edge to fiberglass joint should be caulked with almond colored GE Kitchen and Bath silicone caulk using masking tape on both sides to keep the joint loooking neat and to a width of about 1/4 inch. You are located very close to the Hunter factory in Alachua - It may be worth a trip over there to check specifically on your year and model boat.Bernie