I have sailed my 1980 30' Hunter, "Tense Moments" out of South Haven, Michigan for several years now and this last year, it has developed a dark tea colored ooze on the starboard side mid cabin and it is periodically dripping near the hull-deck joint. I know that it means water has invaded the core, but where is the most likely spot? I have replaced the ports and sealed with 3M 5200. The deck area does not appear to have any soft spots and I want to take care of the problem before this happens. Would it help to snug up the hull deck joint bolts? Anyone out there have a similar experience?
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Hunter 26.5
I have a similar problem on my 1987 Hunter 26.5. I think that it is coming from the same spot. I am thinking about removing the rub rail and sealing the gunwale. I am sure that others have had this problem and will offer us a solution. Geoff Upbeat
I have a similar problem on my 1987 Hunter 26.5. I think that it is coming from the same spot. I am thinking about removing the rub rail and sealing the gunwale. I am sure that others have had this problem and will offer us a solution. Geoff Upbeat
Snug bolts and...
The bolts need to be snugged every year and that will help. If there are no problems evident on the side decks, or cabin roof, the most likely candidate is the wood core around the portlights. The portlights are about the first component to leak into the wood, and the water/rotting wood stain will run to the side on the inner liner. Actually, any leak anywhere in the cabin roof will be carried to the side by the liner. So if it's not the portlight openings or hull/deck joint, hire a surveyor with lots of moisture measurement tricks to survey your deck and cabin roof - you do want to figure this out, as the problem is progressive. Do check the archives which has lots of good discussions on this issue. Other possibilities are: Lifeline stanchions. The mast step (yes, this could wander over to the side as you have described. The hatches. Any hardware mounted on the cabin roof. David Lady Lillie
The bolts need to be snugged every year and that will help. If there are no problems evident on the side decks, or cabin roof, the most likely candidate is the wood core around the portlights. The portlights are about the first component to leak into the wood, and the water/rotting wood stain will run to the side on the inner liner. Actually, any leak anywhere in the cabin roof will be carried to the side by the liner. So if it's not the portlight openings or hull/deck joint, hire a surveyor with lots of moisture measurement tricks to survey your deck and cabin roof - you do want to figure this out, as the problem is progressive. Do check the archives which has lots of good discussions on this issue. Other possibilities are: Lifeline stanchions. The mast step (yes, this could wander over to the side as you have described. The hatches. Any hardware mounted on the cabin roof. David Lady Lillie
Toe rail, chain plates and stanchions
Rick: I would start with these three items. The chain plates and the stanchions are the easiest to rebed. Then if you still have a leak, you can try the toe rail. This is a two person job. One on the screw driver and the other on the nut. This is a tedious job but it is worth trying. The last resort is to pull the toe rail and rebed it. I cannot even imagine how long that may take. Good luck!
Rick: I would start with these three items. The chain plates and the stanchions are the easiest to rebed. Then if you still have a leak, you can try the toe rail. This is a two person job. One on the screw driver and the other on the nut. This is a tedious job but it is worth trying. The last resort is to pull the toe rail and rebed it. I cannot even imagine how long that may take. Good luck!
pressurize cabin
Rick, Here's a little trick a wise old salt once shared with me and I have used it twice with great success on both my prior boat and on my new boat. You will need to get the following: a powerful leaf blower, a piece of plwood the size of your companionway with a hole cut in the middle the size of the blower outlet tube,tape, a bottle of dawn and a gallon bucket.---not much. Next, place plywood in companion way, close slider, and tape the slider edges and plywood edges as air tight as possible(you wont be able to make them completely air tight, but do your best), tape up hatches in similar manner and stick the blower into the plywood hole. Now, mix a pretty concetrated solution of water and dish soap. Turn the blower on which will pressurize the cabin---the stronger the blower is the better. Now walk around your deck and putting small amounts of the soapy water solution around all, and I mean all deck hardware. The leaking culprit(s) will have bubbles around them while the non-leakers will have nothing--bubbles will slowly form, don't expect to see a froth. I have done this twice with great success. The first time 2 screws on my port jib lead track were leaking. The second time was more difficult as I initially could not find a leak which was dripping into the aft berth, however, I was persistent and found the leak after removing the primary winch drum where 2 of the screws were leaking(bubbling). Anyway, give it a try it works. When you do find a leak, and you will, my advice is to use a polysulfide sealant as this will facilitate removal in the future if needs be. You will find that if you ever have to remove those portlights that you used 5200 to seal in that it will be impossible without tearing your boat up. 5200 is a building compound not a sealing compound. I have seen it pull up gel coat and fiberglass even though it was leaking. Hope all of this helps. ken matejka
Rick, Here's a little trick a wise old salt once shared with me and I have used it twice with great success on both my prior boat and on my new boat. You will need to get the following: a powerful leaf blower, a piece of plwood the size of your companionway with a hole cut in the middle the size of the blower outlet tube,tape, a bottle of dawn and a gallon bucket.---not much. Next, place plywood in companion way, close slider, and tape the slider edges and plywood edges as air tight as possible(you wont be able to make them completely air tight, but do your best), tape up hatches in similar manner and stick the blower into the plywood hole. Now, mix a pretty concetrated solution of water and dish soap. Turn the blower on which will pressurize the cabin---the stronger the blower is the better. Now walk around your deck and putting small amounts of the soapy water solution around all, and I mean all deck hardware. The leaking culprit(s) will have bubbles around them while the non-leakers will have nothing--bubbles will slowly form, don't expect to see a froth. I have done this twice with great success. The first time 2 screws on my port jib lead track were leaking. The second time was more difficult as I initially could not find a leak which was dripping into the aft berth, however, I was persistent and found the leak after removing the primary winch drum where 2 of the screws were leaking(bubbling). Anyway, give it a try it works. When you do find a leak, and you will, my advice is to use a polysulfide sealant as this will facilitate removal in the future if needs be. You will find that if you ever have to remove those portlights that you used 5200 to seal in that it will be impossible without tearing your boat up. 5200 is a building compound not a sealing compound. I have seen it pull up gel coat and fiberglass even though it was leaking. Hope all of this helps. ken matejka
Unbelievable ...
I have read this post for many a year as a Hunter owner and this is the first time I've heard of THIS solution for finding leaks. And I love it. I have had the same ooze on board our 1978 Hunter 30 since we bought her. As it ends up the first season with our boat was the rainiest ever in Upstate NY (see my ship's log at the link below). The ooze was apparent in about three different places ... I might just try this unique idea to locate the source of the problem. Thanks. Eric
I have read this post for many a year as a Hunter owner and this is the first time I've heard of THIS solution for finding leaks. And I love it. I have had the same ooze on board our 1978 Hunter 30 since we bought her. As it ends up the first season with our boat was the rainiest ever in Upstate NY (see my ship's log at the link below). The ooze was apparent in about three different places ... I might just try this unique idea to locate the source of the problem. Thanks. Eric
Ken
You are right on for finding the leaks. I have suggested this methond on the trailerables. Thanks for your input. Crazy Dave Condon
You are right on for finding the leaks. I have suggested this methond on the trailerables. Thanks for your input. Crazy Dave Condon
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