Cabin bulbs replacement with LEDs

[DStegs49]

If Don Thompson is still a member, please contact me. I have a question about the leds that you mentioned in the above topic. (His posting was 6/23/13)
OR...
Has anyone used the leds that Don used? My question is the leds work when jumped directly to the battery but when I plug them into a socket, they don't. I am not that familiar with leds compared to the regular ones so I am asking this question. Do I need to put a diod or resistor inline to use the leds in replacing the standard 1147 bulb. I had to do that with a few lights I replaced on a semi a while back.
I contacted the supplier of the bulbs but they were unable to answer that question because they just sell them.

 

[DStegs49]

This is a picture of what Don had and I purchased.

 

[dlochner]

LEDs are unlike incandescent bulbs in that polarity does matter with LEDs but not incandescent. If the incandescent bulb worked in the fixture and the LED doesn't then check the polarity of the fixture, it could be wired backwards.

Edit: Or the light could be wired backwards.

 

[justsomeguy]

This is a picture of what Don had and I purchased.

Seems fairly straightforward.
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/cu/detail-led.php
Search this page for your existing bulb base. HTH.

 

[Skipper]

Also check if the socket is double or single contact at the base. If it's a double and you put a single contact bulb/extension, it will short and blow a fuse/breaker. If it's a single base and you put a double, it will just sit there.

 

[rgranger]

My guess is that @dlochner called it. But the contact connections being off is a good lead also.

 

[rgranger]

You could test it with a simple multimeter (volt meter). See if the positive and negative of your lamp housing is correct. You should read negative at the housing where the black wire of your LED conversion kit contacts the housing and positive where red contacts. If they are not correct, simply cut the wires on your LED connection, cris-cross them and crimp them back together. Its a five minute job.

 

[DStegs49]

Hadn't thought about polarity but if that's the way LEDs work it's very possible the polarity is incorrect. The PO did a bunch of custom interior work and removed all the wire connections to do so. All the light sockets are single contact. I'll Check polarity next time out. Thanks all for your help and prompt responses.

 

[NotCook]

I would agree with others that this could well be a polarity issue. Looking at the bulb I would try pulling it out turning around I'm pushing it back in so the pins are in the opposite holes. If it's a polarity issue that will solve it.

 

[Skipper]

I would agree with others that this could well be a polarity issue. Looking at the bulb I would try pulling it out turning around I'm pushing it back in so the pins are in the opposite holes. If it's a polarity issue that will solve it.

Wouldn't on his single contact base.

 

[bawlmer]

Sounds like polarity to me. Switch the wires around and you should be good. LEDs are electronic devices that are polarity sensitive.

 

[SFS]

Or buy bulbs from Marine Beam. Theirs are NOT polarity sensitive. (At least the ones in their fixtures.)

 

[DStegs49]

I've checked marine beam and will try the red/white bulbs. As for now I'll check out the suggested polarity issue with the ones I have.

 

[DStegs49]

Thanks again to all who replied.

 

[Brian S]

On a non-indexed bayonet socket like that, polarity is easy to check: spin the "bulb" 180º and insert into socket. If the socket is indexed, eg. the pins on each side of the bulb are offset such that there is only ONE way to insert into the socket, then you've got issues where you'd need to re-solder wiring. But interior lights like that are generally NOT indexed bayonet sockets.

 

[DStegs49]

Thanks but the bulbs are single fillement (spelling) with a single contact and both little nubs are the same distance from the base

 

[Brian S]

Well, single contact like that, the contact should be positive and the socket negative. Before you go to the trouble of switching wires into the socket, you could test with a multi-meter to see which is pos and neg. Or simpler, I have a set of alligator jumper wires which could easily clip to socket and reach down in to contact, and then just touch to the LED bulb. Easy to swap to test polarity. If it works one way, but not in other, and when you put the bulb into the socket you are SURE that it is making contact to side of socket and base contact, then I guess try switching the wires into the base of the socket. If you can pull the fixture and get to the crimp connections, cut them out and re-crimp properly, with a proper crimping tool and good heat shrink crimps. Here's how to do proper crimps on proper tinned, stranded wire suitable for boat use: https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination-2/

 

[NotCook]

Wouldn't on his single contact base.

Good point. I was thinking of the festoons that we have in much of our fixtures...

 

[marke14]

I also had to rewire my fixtures to accommodate the LEDs I purchased online.

 

[Seahorse24]

LEDs are like diodes. Current only flows in one direction. Polarity matters. When a 12 volt LED blub does not light up, reverse the polarity of the wiring and see if that fixes the problem.