For what its worth, I pulled the engine (Universal M25) and have it home for some repair and refurbishmnet. If anyone else has done this, or if anyone would like to know "what goes where." or similar questions, I'd be happy to comment. Its amazing what you can see and discover with teh engione out. So far I've stripped the engine of its accesories, pulled the bell housing, flywheel, front pulley, exhaust manifild, water pumps, etc. Would like to put a high performance pulley set on - can anyone help with this, suppliers, etc.? Thanks, jv
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Did similar last year
John, I pulled my M25 from Julandra last year for a lot of the same reasons. While it was out I cleaned and painted it, replaced all the hoses (including the small fuel return lines), replaced a leaking oil drain hose, rebuilt the injectors, and replaced the old green antifreeze with the newer pink Texaco stuff. One other item you might want to consider while it's out is re-bedding and replacing the engine mounts. I went with Vetus K50 mounts (somewhat softer than the OEM's) after reading and researching. Ron Hill of the C34 group was a lot of help. They made a huge difference for both noise and vibration. While the engine is out, this would also be a good time to replace the cutlass bearing, as you can pull the shaft up into the hull, and not have to drop the rudder. Good luck with the project. Tom Soko Julandra #659
John, I pulled my M25 from Julandra last year for a lot of the same reasons. While it was out I cleaned and painted it, replaced all the hoses (including the small fuel return lines), replaced a leaking oil drain hose, rebuilt the injectors, and replaced the old green antifreeze with the newer pink Texaco stuff. One other item you might want to consider while it's out is re-bedding and replacing the engine mounts. I went with Vetus K50 mounts (somewhat softer than the OEM's) after reading and researching. Ron Hill of the C34 group was a lot of help. They made a huge difference for both noise and vibration. While the engine is out, this would also be a good time to replace the cutlass bearing, as you can pull the shaft up into the hull, and not have to drop the rudder. Good luck with the project. Tom Soko Julandra #659
Mounts
Thanks Tom, I think my mounts are newer than original. This engine has had some work in the past, before I got hte boat, includign a new gear cover, rear main seal (I think), etc. All the hose will be replaced. I did the injectors last fall (bought new for less than rebuilds). I'm planning on re-plumbing the coolant to run the water heater between the thermostat housing and exhaust manifold tank. I may eliminate some hose and use solid copper when I do this, plus put a ball valve in to shut off the heater loop. We'll see. Which oil drain hose are you referring to? jv
Thanks Tom, I think my mounts are newer than original. This engine has had some work in the past, before I got hte boat, includign a new gear cover, rear main seal (I think), etc. All the hose will be replaced. I did the injectors last fall (bought new for less than rebuilds). I'm planning on re-plumbing the coolant to run the water heater between the thermostat housing and exhaust manifold tank. I may eliminate some hose and use solid copper when I do this, plus put a ball valve in to shut off the heater loop. We'll see. Which oil drain hose are you referring to? jv
Check into a remotely mounted oil filter
I added a remote oil filter last year. It serves two puposes. 1. easier to change the oil filter( no oil running down the side off the engine. 2. Our M25 now has 6 quarts of oil running through it.
I added a remote oil filter last year. It serves two puposes. 1. easier to change the oil filter( no oil running down the side off the engine. 2. Our M25 now has 6 quarts of oil running through it.
Timing chain cover????
Looking at the front of the engine it appears that the timing chain cover and the injector pump are one unit. Is this true?
Looking at the front of the engine it appears that the timing chain cover and the injector pump are one unit. Is this true?
Oil filter and gear case
Chuck, I like the remote oil filter idea. Where can I get the kit? I was also thinking of "remoting" the seconday fuel filter, since it is "Mickey Mouse" mounted to the engine by Universal/Westerbeke with a piece of aluminum angle, and doesn't really have to be buried where it is next to the block. The gear case and injection pump are not one. See the link. The speed control is mounted in the gearcase, but the injection pump goes in verticall on the starboard side of the block. The links below are from Marine Diesel Direct, which has the entire parts book on-line. jv http://64.106.149.114/universal/200142/gearcasegroup.htm http://64.106.149.114/universal/200142/fuel-camshaft-group.htm
Chuck, I like the remote oil filter idea. Where can I get the kit? I was also thinking of "remoting" the seconday fuel filter, since it is "Mickey Mouse" mounted to the engine by Universal/Westerbeke with a piece of aluminum angle, and doesn't really have to be buried where it is next to the block. The gear case and injection pump are not one. See the link. The speed control is mounted in the gearcase, but the injection pump goes in verticall on the starboard side of the block. The links below are from Marine Diesel Direct, which has the entire parts book on-line. jv http://64.106.149.114/universal/200142/gearcasegroup.htm http://64.106.149.114/universal/200142/fuel-camshaft-group.htm
Still looking for pulleys
I did the alternator bracket uprade and added a 125 Amp alternator. The ost current I ever pull from it is 90 to 100 Amps. Although the braket "works," I don't really like it. Its a bit of a kludge, using some of the exhaust manifold studs to mount. My belts don't last long. The bracket doesn't seem to be adjustable for alignment. I "think" the pulleys are aligned, but I'm not sure. I would really like a performance pulley, like a serpentie belt pulley system. Has anyone done this? Other than that, has anyone upgraded to dual belts? Where did you get the pulleys? Thanks, jv
I did the alternator bracket uprade and added a 125 Amp alternator. The ost current I ever pull from it is 90 to 100 Amps. Although the braket "works," I don't really like it. Its a bit of a kludge, using some of the exhaust manifold studs to mount. My belts don't last long. The bracket doesn't seem to be adjustable for alignment. I "think" the pulleys are aligned, but I'm not sure. I would really like a performance pulley, like a serpentie belt pulley system. Has anyone done this? Other than that, has anyone upgraded to dual belts? Where did you get the pulleys? Thanks, jv
Alternator Belt Tension
John Try these links http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-belt-alt.html http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-bracket-alt.html Since the C34 and C36 boats are so similar and have the same engines, I've found the wealth of technical knowledge on the C34 website to be very helpful to both C34 and C36 owners. The C36 website is very helpful and the C36 Association took the lead in identifying the M25B engine pump problems. Those with C34 and C36s should use both resources. Good luck Stu Jackson IAC34 Association Secretary
John Try these links http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-belt-alt.html http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-bracket-alt.html Since the C34 and C36 boats are so similar and have the same engines, I've found the wealth of technical knowledge on the C34 website to be very helpful to both C34 and C36 owners. The C36 website is very helpful and the C36 Association took the lead in identifying the M25B engine pump problems. Those with C34 and C36s should use both resources. Good luck Stu Jackson IAC34 Association Secretary
Thanks Stu
Yes, I've visited these links before, and foudn a lot of good stuff. I'm aware of the dual pulley mod., but I'd prefer a wide pulley, like the ones used in serpentine belt applications.
Yes, I've visited these links before, and foudn a lot of good stuff. I'm aware of the dual pulley mod., but I'd prefer a wide pulley, like the ones used in serpentine belt applications.
Remote oil filter
Ask your local auto parts dealer about it. Im not at home so I don't have the details. I think it was around $70.00. It uses any Ford filter.
Ask your local auto parts dealer about it. Im not at home so I don't have the details. I think it was around $70.00. It uses any Ford filter.
Oil Drain Hose
John, The oil drain hose is mounted via a banjo nut to the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. I use it rather than the dipstick hole. I had been noticing a few drops of oil below the engine and couldn't figure out where they were coming from. It turns out the oil drain hose had slightly abraded due to vibration and was slowly weeping oil. A few bucks later at NAPA I had a new one that was abrasion resistant and could withstand something like 2000 psi. Tom.
John, The oil drain hose is mounted via a banjo nut to the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. I use it rather than the dipstick hole. I had been noticing a few drops of oil below the engine and couldn't figure out where they were coming from. It turns out the oil drain hose had slightly abraded due to vibration and was slowly weeping oil. A few bucks later at NAPA I had a new one that was abrasion resistant and could withstand something like 2000 psi. Tom.
RE: Banjo Nut
John, It came with the boat/engine, but it can be ordered from Westerbeke/Universal. Another source is Torrenson Marine: http://64.106.149.114/universal/200142/oil-pan-group.html In the above link, it's item #15. Sorry, but don't know the cost. It works a lot better than using the dipstick for draining oil. Hope this helps. Tom.
John, It came with the boat/engine, but it can be ordered from Westerbeke/Universal. Another source is Torrenson Marine: http://64.106.149.114/universal/200142/oil-pan-group.html In the above link, it's item #15. Sorry, but don't know the cost. It works a lot better than using the dipstick for draining oil. Hope this helps. Tom.
alternative to banjo nut
Thanks Tom, Does it drain fast? I also saw a quick drain valvel from Fumoto which looks cool. (see link). http://www.fumotovalve.com/
Thanks Tom, Does it drain fast? I also saw a quick drain valvel from Fumoto which looks cool. (see link). http://www.fumotovalve.com/
"Can anyone help with this, suppliers, etc."?
Try www.eb4l.com. They seem to be able to get everything from electronics to complete engines and offer very reasonable prices.
Try www.eb4l.com. They seem to be able to get everything from electronics to complete engines and offer very reasonable prices.
It is Cool...
John, I put one of those nifty drains on a car I owned a few years ago, and it worked like a charm. It's a SS ball-valve attached to a tiny handle, but there's no way to attach a hose to it. It just drains the oil straight down, so I would not put one in the boat. There is so little room below the oil pan that I could not get a waste oil pan in there. Even if I could, I could never get a full pan out! The hose attached to a banjo nut has worked very well for me.
John, I put one of those nifty drains on a car I owned a few years ago, and it worked like a charm. It's a SS ball-valve attached to a tiny handle, but there's no way to attach a hose to it. It just drains the oil straight down, so I would not put one in the boat. There is so little room below the oil pan that I could not get a waste oil pan in there. Even if I could, I could never get a full pan out! The hose attached to a banjo nut has worked very well for me.
product update
Tom, They now offer the product with a nipple for a hose. I think it will fit O.K. jv
Tom, They now offer the product with a nipple for a hose. I think it will fit O.K. jv
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