The plexiglass portlights/windows in my 1989, C&C30 have developed vertical cracks that result in leaks. These are flush mounted and have a small degree of curvature. The perimeters of the windows are tight and do not leak. The leaks are only thru the cracks themselves. Has anyone had experience in replacing these. If so, (1) How do you remove the old windows without damaging the gelcoat, (2) What adhesive is suitable, and (3) How are the plexiglass windows held in place, taking the bow into account, while the adhesive cures?
C&C30 Window/Portlight Replacement
- Thread starter jstrathman
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C&C window portlight replacement
There is a possibility that when you remove your old plexiglass windows, some of the gel coat may be damaged. Repair the damaged gel coat if you want but it's not necessary unless it will be visible after the new window is installed. Use Dow 795 as an adhesive sealant. Clean all surfaces well before applying. The bow in your windows will tend to force out the sealant so it's very important to add small shims between the plexiglass window and the cabin trunk. You can use tiny plastic beads about 3/32" to 1/8" diameter evenly spaced around the perimeter of the window edge at 6 inch intervals. Build a jig to support the window and to brace the plexiglass against the cabin trunk until the sealant cures. The cure time is rather long. Follow the directions on the Dow 795 tube for duration and temperature recommendations. I did mine with this procedure and they look fantastic and don't leak. I would suggest you use the black sealant as it will hide the spacers and any gel coat imperfections. Take your time and do it right.
There is a possibility that when you remove your old plexiglass windows, some of the gel coat may be damaged. Repair the damaged gel coat if you want but it's not necessary unless it will be visible after the new window is installed. Use Dow 795 as an adhesive sealant. Clean all surfaces well before applying. The bow in your windows will tend to force out the sealant so it's very important to add small shims between the plexiglass window and the cabin trunk. You can use tiny plastic beads about 3/32" to 1/8" diameter evenly spaced around the perimeter of the window edge at 6 inch intervals. Build a jig to support the window and to brace the plexiglass against the cabin trunk until the sealant cures. The cure time is rather long. Follow the directions on the Dow 795 tube for duration and temperature recommendations. I did mine with this procedure and they look fantastic and don't leak. I would suggest you use the black sealant as it will hide the spacers and any gel coat imperfections. Take your time and do it right.
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