C-309 Hull #36 Refrigerator and Water Pump Problems

[forbestx]

Greetings from Texas (Lake Travis). I own WindShift - a 2006 Catalina 309 #36. Just in the last month, I discovered that the refrigerator only cools when I am attached to shore power. Historcially, it has worked on both DC and AC. The refrigerator light does turn on when the door opeans in either AC or DC mode. Any thoughts? Also, yesterday I discovered my Shurflow water pump does'nt work. Fuse looks okay. Anyone else have problems with their pump after only 3 years?

Thanks.

 

[MED]

I believe the shurflo water pumps are warranted for three years so you might be running very close to the wind (so to speak) to have the pump fixed under warranty. My pump gave up and I found the problem was caused by an internal short in the pressure switch. My shower pump also stopped working and I found that cleaning the commutator at the point where the exciter brushes make contact solved the problem. All of the above are easily detectable if you are a bit handy with a mega meter. Might be worth sending an email to "customerservice@shurflo.com" for further advice and or if you believe you are still within the warranty period. Good Luck.

 

[GKuffner]

Have a look at this post on SailNet regarding the AC/DC fridge on earlier C309s.
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gener...related/37766-catalina-309-owners-fridge.html

Gary
Glory Days
C309 #136

 

[J in Mississippi]

If it works with A/C and the light comes on in DC then only 2 possibilities.

1) A battery problem, the voltage is too low to start the compressor. A single bad cell in your 12volt house batteries will do this. Try this, turn of the a/c breaker for the fridge (the one lablelled Galley). Then with shore power connected and battey charger turned on, see if the compressor kicks in on the fridge (listen for it). If it does then one (OR BOTH) of your batteriy banks is bad. Place the battery switch to both, turn off the battery charger, then try selecting battery bank 1, then 2. If it runs on one but not the other then that battery is bad. Hold the battery check button and read the volts, a bad battery will be <10.5 volts.

2) Wiring problem. You will need a voltage meter to check for loose wires in the 12v line. Could also be a faulty switch in the distribution panel

Hope this helps,

John Cat 309, Intrepid II, #41

 

[forbestx]

The #2 Battery was the problem!

I appreciate the responses received about my refrigerator not working. Thank you J in Mississippi for your recommended diagnostics. It was, indeed, a bad battery!

 

[jsalley]

I own 309 #14. As discussed on Sailnet a couple of years ago, the rectifier on the AC/DC fridges installed on early hulls are problematic. I had mine replaced under warranty during the first year after commissioning, and it died again a couple of weeks ago. Now only runs on AC, despite batteries being fully charged and in good shape. I worked around it on a recent cruise by plugging the AC cord from the fridge (in the cockpit locker) to an outlet that's on my inverter circuit using an extension cord - not the most electrically efficient setup, but it kept the beer cold and the ice frozen for cocktail hour. Plan to discuss with Waeco - not sure what the warranty is on the fridge, or whether they have any improved fixes.

 

[bubgumman]

I own 309 #6 and, as noted by forbestx, I too have problems with both the refrigeration and the sureflow pump.

The refrigeration cycles for about a minute and 20 seconds and then the compressor kicks in for about 20 seconds. This repeats when on AC or DC. Unfortunately, the unit does not cool. The local dealer looked at the unit and can not figure out why it is not working and is recommending it be replaced. Waeco is not overly helpful.

Does anyone know how to remove the unit? I have been unable to figure that out without tearing apart part of the galley. Also, any recommendations for a replacement unit? Would a straight DC unit be better than the AC/DC unit?

Finally on the sureflow pump. Mine still works but, leaks. I know it is out of warranty but, the replacement cost should not be bad and, it is easily accessible.

 

[jsalley]

When the dealer removed my fridge (the first time) to repair it, they had to cut out a small piece of the teak trim at the left lower corner of the unit, as well as completely remove the drawer assembly under the unit, to get it out. The removed piece is hardly noticeable, and I never replaced it.

If you replace your unit, let us know what you use, as many owners of early boats with AC/DC fridges will likely be doing the same thing.

 

[bubgumman]

John,

Thank you for the information. I need to follow up with the local dealer as he said it was not difficult to remove the refrigerator. I have had a couple of knowledgeable owners look at it and they too were unable to figure it out.

I will advise once I look/replace the new unit. Right now, finding one with the correct dimensions also appears to be a challenge.