C-30 Repower Advice

jviss · Aug 16, 2011

Don't give up the ship!

Do you have any mechanical skill at all? Tools?

If you believe these guys, then you have virtually zero to lose by at least pulling the head and taking a look.

Did this second mechanic give you any details for his recommendation, and assessment of what was wrong with it as a result of his view that it wasn't taken care of?

(if you do junk it, I'll come down and take it off your hands!

)

redhead78 · Aug 17, 2011

I am confused, does this engine crank over, or is it seized....Red

jviss · Aug 17, 2011

Dream Chaser said:
Jviss, Yes I do believe I have enough ablility to tear it down and take a look at the pistons and cylinders. And no the 2nd mechanic did not let me know what he thought would be the secondary issues that would cause me issues? I guess these guys just take a look at a leaking heat exchanger and rust on the exterior of the engine and then decide to give up and forget it? They all are way to busy for my liking..(it must be nice!) Anyway, I will keep you posted if I decide to junk it and replace with something else. The same guy wanted 4 grand just in labor as an estimate to replace the motor with something else. Thanks, DC

DC, at this point I would really like to see you pull the head and take a look at the valves, and the cylinder walls.

Don't worry about the heat exchanger. These don't last forever, and are a $400 or so item. If you buy a new one, well, you'll have a new heat exchanger, and not have to worry about it.

A cylinder head job will be way, way cheaper than a re-power. I would contact a local Kubota tractor dealer or parts outlet and ask about a local engine machine shop that will do a cylinder head job, which will usually be to disassemble, check head surface for flatness and surface grind if necessary; check valves and valve springs, replace as needed; grind valves seats; lap valves to seats; reassemble. Probably won't be much more that a couple of hundred (guess).

Then a new head gasket, new valve cover gasket, adjust valves, adjust compression release, and fire it up!

If the cylinder walls are just glazed, you can live with that, it just might smoke some. If you have scored walls, broken rings, damaged pistons, etc., you'll have to do the bottom. If you are very clever and very lucky, you can do this in place: would need to be able to get the oil pan off and out of the way. You can then cut the ridge, disconnect the big end from the crank, push the pistons out the top, hone the cylinders in place, install new rings, re-install pistons, etc. The you have to break it in properly, but you would have a pretty good engine after. Still much, much cheaper than a re-power.

joefusa · Aug 20, 2011

I know it's a diesel and not the atomic 4, but have you considered calling Don Moyer at Moyer Marine (moyermarine.com)? If you explain the situation to him, he's the kind of guy who just might be able to give you some unbiased information/suggestions. It's worth a try and it's just a phone call.

jviss · Aug 20, 2011

Nah...

Dream Chaser said:
Jviss, Thanks very much for all of the advice. I will start working towards that end in couple of weeks when I get back to Chuck Town and my boat. I will start tearing it down slowly and see what I find.
Redhead, yes this motor turns over just fine, it just showed low compression across all cylinders at about 220 to 240lbs. Had injectors rebuilt and starter replaced prior to the compression test. Then once they added oil to the cylinders pressure increased to just over 300 in all cylinders. The majority of opinions so far has been stuck rings for starters? Thanks again for all of your suggestions and assistance.....DC

I don't buy the stuck rings theory. My theory is that if this thing went from running to not running suddenly, which is indicated by low compression on all cylinders, then it must have been a "event" that caused it. And, this is most likely overheating. Overheated valves would explain the overall low compression, as would a warped head, or ruined head gasket.

By the way, any water in the oil?

jv

jrowan · Aug 23, 2011

Food for thought: an engine rebuild of what you have is always cheaper than a replacement engine, as long as the block, pistons & head are still O.K. I would even rebuild my lil' 5411 before I replaced it, because when they're kept up the are very reliable lil' workhorse engines & super efficient on fuel. Even the Atomic Bombs are usually worth rebuilding as they're strong as hell in the horespower dept. Check around for quotes on a rebuild price, with the engine left in the boat. Even $2,500 for a average rebuild is a helluvalot cheaper than 8 to 10 k for a replacement diesel. You could always strap on a big outboard on a stern motor mount until U get the diesel fixed. But I would rather put the money towards fixing the inboard. Its an investment in the boat, & face it, you'll never get your money back out of a sailboat if the engine doesn't work! Good luck.

rbmcintire · Aug 24, 2011

Dream Chaser, I also have a 1984 w/ the M-25. I pulled the engine this past winter to remove the bilge plywood and get at my keel bolts. Here's link to an earlier thread. I put in some pictures. I was on the hard with my mast pulled, but you could use this method to do yours in the water. The gantry I made is all Home Depot accessible stuff, but other owners work this out just fine, using a supported boom. I removed the sink counter, and all engine related connections, in a very short period of time. Supporting the engine in the cabin, up on 6 x 6 blocks (add 6" bolts to your engine mount holes and notch out for the dipstick tube) will give you access all over your engine. http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=126873
Also, when you have it out, make sure the "new" alternator bracket modification has been done. I do have to warn you here, about "project creep"; I ended up installing new engine mounts, a new raw water pump, I replaced the exhaust pipe, all the coolant hoses, and added a customized heat exchanger bracket on the back of the engine, in addition to the bilge job. Very worthwhile endeavor for me, even if it was time consuming. I also agree with jrowan on the rebuild, alternatively you could have the boat towed to the haulout area and have the engine lifted from this blocked position, into the back of a diesel shop's pickup truck. The labor cost reduction for disconnecting it (and reconnecting) is worthwhile doing yourself.