Buying and cutting G10

Sep 24, 2018
3,879
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
What's your recommended source to buy G10 from? I'm looking to buy some 1/2" (please advise if cutting with a table/miter saw will be an issue) and probably 1/8" pieces. They will be stacked to make a new mast compression block in the bilge so thickness isn't terribly important.

I'm also interested in saw blade recommendations. I'm planning on using a 12" compound miter saw, grinder and possibly a 10" table saw
 
Apr 8, 2010
2,190
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
I would initially calculate the total cost for the finished piece. Often it's cheaper to buy it in quarter inch thickness and laminate with epoxy, I use a "bi metallic" blade on my own saws, Also better if you exactly specify the shape, if a rectangle, and have the vendor do the cuts on their diamond-blade saw. I have used https://www.professionalplastics.com/G10FR4SHEET.
IIRC they cut it to my size requirement with no extra charge (or maybe a modest charge; I forget). Anyhow their cutting was spot on.
 
Sep 24, 2018
3,879
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
Cutting would be amazing but time consuming and somewhat difficult to predict. I'll take a look at 1/4" prices. Thank you!

Is a layer of cloth/mat between layers of G10 recommended or just thickened epoxy?
 
Feb 10, 2004
4,175
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I bought 1/2" G4 from Defender and cut 4" circles for thru-hull backing plates. I cut the G4 with my Sabre saw and several blades I bought from Harbor Freight. They were a best quality blade, but it took 2-3 blades to cut 9 circles. So if you do the cuts yourself, buy several blades. The G4 is death on blades.
 
Nov 20, 2025
20
Alden 60' Schooner Killybegs
You're building a compression part. It doesn't much matter how you get the thickness, as long as it doesn't compress or delaminate. As others have stated, you can safely laminate sheets together if you just rough up the surface a bit and wipe it clean with a bit of acetone. Using thicker stock only makes your life harder and usually more expensive. Prices vary widely, but usually 1/2" is more than twice the cost of 1/4". Ironically, you can often find 1/4" for less than 1/8".

You don't need a special saw unless you're going to cut a bunch of it. It cuts pretty readily but won't do your blade any favors. Just use any fine-toothed blade you don't care much about.

About the only ways to go wrong here would be fail to roughen the surfaces before joining, to fail to clean the surface before joining, or to clamp the part too firmly and starve the joint. No need to clamp, actually. Just apply a generous layer of epoxy to both surfaces to help ensure you don't trap air bubbles. Then a little light pressure to squeeze out the excess is all that is needed. Let gravity do the rest.

Once you laminate your part and sand the edges even, go the extra mile and brush a couple of layers of epoxy on the entire part, especially the exposed edges. This is just cheap insurance against wicking and other water ingress that can occur. If the part isn't intended for submersion, this is overkill but why not? If you mean to paint the part, then this gives you a better surface to work with, too.
 
Jun 14, 2010
2,403
Robertson & Caine 2017 Leopard 40 CT
I'm planning on using a 12" compound miter saw, grinder and possibly a 10" table saw
Other posts here gave good advice. A diamond blade or abrasive blade made for dry cutting tile would be a good choice. A good quality carbide toothed blade for either of those saws will be pricey, especially since you need a high tooth count blade for G10. A low tooth count or attempt to cut too fast could potentially be dangerous if it catches. Move slow through the cut. Expect a toothed blade to be dull or chipped after you cut G10. If you use a toothed blade don’t be surprised if you see sparks (that’s your carbide teeth saying “bye-bye”).
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,813
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
They will be stacked to make a new mast compression block in the bilge so thickness isn't terribly important.
Mayhem, have you inspected the block in your bilge area and found rotten wood or just planning for doing the repair?
I ask because I have seen reports that Catalina eliminated the wood from under the mast compression post but not conclusive evidence they did or when they did.
As my 93 does not show any evidence of a rotted block, I'm surprised that you newer boat would.
 
Sep 24, 2018
3,879
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
Only if you find that you want that much more thickness. If you rough up the surfaces with some 60 or 80 grit and clean 'em with acetone, the West System epoxy will bond tenaciously.
Easy enough. Sand a large section before cutting.
I bought 1/2" G4 from Defender and cut 4" circles for thru-hull backing plates. I cut the G4 with my Sabre saw and several blades I bought from Harbor Freight. They were a best quality blade, but it took 2-3 blades to cut 9 circles. So if you do the cuts yourself, buy several blades. The G4 is death on blades.
I'm surprised a small saw like that would cut 1/2" in a reasonable amount of time. I cut 1/8" with an oscillating tool. The older blade was smoking last time
You're building a compression part. It doesn't much matter how you get the thickness, as long as it doesn't compress or delaminate. As others have stated, you can safely laminate sheets together if you just rough up the surface a bit and wipe it clean with a bit of acetone. Using thicker stock only makes your life harder and usually more expensive. Prices vary widely, but usually 1/2" is more than twice the cost of 1/4". Ironically, you can often find 1/4" for less than 1/8".
I looked up pricing after @FastOlson mentioned this. I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to find a 1'x4' piece for $150 shipped. I think this will be plenty
You don't need a special saw unless you're going to cut a bunch of it. It cuts pretty readily but won't do your blade any favors. Just use any fine-toothed blade you don't care much about.
I have a fine toothed, slightly dulled, blade for my miter saw I plan on using. I don't expect it to be of any use beyond this project
About the only ways to go wrong here would be fail to roughen the surfaces before joining, to fail to clean the surface before joining, or to clamp the part too firmly and starve the joint. No need to clamp, actually. Just apply a generous layer of epoxy to both surfaces to help ensure you don't trap air bubbles. Then a little light pressure to squeeze out the excess is all that is needed. Let gravity do the rest.

Once you laminate your part and sand the edges even, go the extra mile and brush a couple of layers of epoxy on the entire part, especially the exposed edges. This is just cheap insurance against wicking and other water ingress that can occur. If the part isn't intended for submersion, this is overkill but why not? If you mean to paint the part, then this gives you a better surface to work with, too.
It's a narrow cavity that i'll be working with. I was considering putting some thickened epoxy on the side of the bilge to keep the G10 pieces in place. Should the epoxy between the layers be thickened so it's not so brittle?
 
Sep 24, 2018
3,879
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
For some reason I got an error when trying to multi quote five messages
Other posts here gave good advice. A diamond blade or abrasive blade made for dry cutting tile would be a good choice. A good quality carbide toothed blade for either of those saws will be pricey, especially since you need a high tooth count blade for G10. A low tooth count or attempt to cut too fast could potentially be dangerous if it catches. Move slow through the cut. Expect a toothed blade to be dull or chipped after you cut G10. If you use a toothed blade don’t be surprised if you see sparks (that’s your carbide teeth saying “bye-bye”).
I saw smoke last time I cut this stuff with an oscillating tool. It was an old blade
Mayhem, have you inspected the block in your bilge area and found rotten wood or just planning for doing the repair?
I ask because I have seen reports that Catalina eliminated the wood from under the mast compression post but not conclusive evidence they did or when they did.
As my 93 does not show any evidence of a rotted block, I'm surprised that you newer boat would.
My 94 had a sunken mast step. I did exploratory surgery on the cabin top and discovered the wood was in excellent condition. Upon inspection of the block, I found that someone or something had chipped away at the filler that was covering the block and that the block had a crack in it. There's also hairline cracks at the corners of the gelcoat in the locations below indicating that it flexed too much. I had the yard take the mast down at haul out last week to replace the block

1763910790192.png
 
Sep 24, 2018
3,879
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
For straight cuts of G10, use a (water lubricated) tile saw, cuts like butter with no dust, edge is perfectly smooth. You will never dry cut it again.
This thought crossed my mind when I saw smoke come off of it last time. I don't have enough use for a wet saw to justify buying one so I'll be wearing a full face mask while cutting. Carcinogenic snow is coming early this year!
 
Last edited:
Feb 10, 2004
4,175
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
This thought crossed my mind when I saw smoke come off of it last time. I don't have enough use for a wet saw to justify buying one so I'll be wearing a full face mask while cutting. Carcinogenic snow is coming early this year!
Try a tile store. I think these can be rented. Or maybe you can find an installer who would do the cuts for a small fee.
 
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Likes: jssailem
Jun 14, 2010
2,403
Robertson & Caine 2017 Leopard 40 CT
The question about “brittle“ prompts the thought that for a compression base a solid piece G10 that’s thicker will be stiffer than several thinner layers held together with secondary bonds.
Regardless, it will be stiffer than whatever you’re replacing.
PS - I would use G-Flex for this. It has outstanding bond strength and also allows for minor movement such as might be caused by different temperature changes when bonding dissimilar materials.
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,159
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
When I did this project, I bought 1/4” and 1/2” thick G10 in 12"×12" sheets from Defender and cut them up with my Sabre saw. Everything people said about this material eating saw blades is correct and a table saw (I don’t have one.) would have given me cleaner cuts. If I was doing it again, I would order the same material in 3”x3” backing plate sizes from Defender. The small added cost for precut material would be well worth it IMO.
 
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Likes: Rich Stidger
Mar 26, 2011
3,823
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
If you don't want to dull blades, use a cut off disk in an angle grinder. That is what I normally do. Lots of dust, but I don't want a dull blade in my table saw.
 
Sep 24, 2018
3,879
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
My 12" compound miter saw cuts through material like butter. It's by far one of the best power tools I've ever bought. It's a contractor grade DeWalt with a heavy cast aluminum base. It's worth the effort to lug it around. I'd primarily use this and bring the table saw as a backup. The saws will make a much cleaner and straighter cut than the angle grinder. I'd use a grinder to shave down an edge to get a piece to fit