We have just had a problam with the shore power connector getting burnt. Can anyone tell me why this happened and after I replace it how do I avoid this happening again.
www.svtallyho.com
www.svtallyho.com
Burnt Electrical Socket.
- Thread starter AndrewB
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Probably corrosion
Looks like only one terminal of the three is burnt so I'm thinking the marine environment has again taken its toll.
Speaking technically burns come from heat (duh! Bill!) and heat is watts and watts is resistance times amps squared. So either you passed too many amps (both terminals would be burned in that case) or you have a high resistance in the terminal that did get burned.
Try and keep the terminal caps on tight when not in use, cover the cable ends when not in use and make sure the connections are weather tight when plugged in.
Looks like only one terminal of the three is burnt so I'm thinking the marine environment has again taken its toll.
Speaking technically burns come from heat (duh! Bill!) and heat is watts and watts is resistance times amps squared. So either you passed too many amps (both terminals would be burned in that case) or you have a high resistance in the terminal that did get burned.
Try and keep the terminal caps on tight when not in use, cover the cable ends when not in use and make sure the connections are weather tight when plugged in.
Re: Probably corrosion
Go to WM or your local chandlery. Get a new receptacle, not sure if you can just buy the plug without the housing, (I got the whole enchilada). Then install it. Most likely the wires on the back have some corrosion and are shorting. Pretty simple job.
Cheers
Go to WM or your local chandlery. Get a new receptacle, not sure if you can just buy the plug without the housing, (I got the whole enchilada). Then install it. Most likely the wires on the back have some corrosion and are shorting. Pretty simple job.
Cheers
Andrew: There was a recent discussion about this issue. I assume that you have been using some high amp devices on this circuit (like space heater). You need to be sure that the plug & recepticle are clean and free of corrosion. You also need to be sure that the twist lock is securley locked in place.
You best bet now is to replace the plug and recepticle and check the wires on the recepticle end. You may need to trim the wire back a good distance to get clean wire.
You may want to look back and see what the others have recommended for some prior discussions too.
You best bet now is to replace the plug and recepticle and check the wires on the recepticle end. You may need to trim the wire back a good distance to get clean wire.
You may want to look back and see what the others have recommended for some prior discussions too.
Same problem happened to me.
I had the same thing happen to me on an 83 hunter 34 this year. I was in the boat when I discovered it. Weather was rain everything was wet n cold. The boat had a smell that I remember when an electrical component would fail in a circuit of some sort. I could see and feel the aft end protective enclosure of the shore socket receptacle and it was hot. I removed the shore plug and your picture looked the same as what I saw. No breaker's tripped etc. I replaced the cord and socket. When replacing the socket the aft end insulation of the wire was melted from the heat. Could have been a bad situation. This is leading me to find a resolution so this will not happen again. The new cord and socket works fine now. Jim
I had the same thing happen to me on an 83 hunter 34 this year. I was in the boat when I discovered it. Weather was rain everything was wet n cold. The boat had a smell that I remember when an electrical component would fail in a circuit of some sort. I could see and feel the aft end protective enclosure of the shore socket receptacle and it was hot. I removed the shore plug and your picture looked the same as what I saw. No breaker's tripped etc. I replaced the cord and socket. When replacing the socket the aft end insulation of the wire was melted from the heat. Could have been a bad situation. This is leading me to find a resolution so this will not happen again. The new cord and socket works fine now. Jim
All responses so far give good advice. I read somewhere that you should only plug in the electrical cable when the power had been shut off at the dock end of things. When you plug in the shore power and it's "live," there is a little spark that causes the metal to arc and form some resistance on the prong. You can see this as little dark spots on the prong. Over time, this resistance can cause heat build up. So, after making sure there is not a more serious problem, make it your practice to plug in the shore power at both ends and only then turn on the power at the breaker on shore.
There may only be a spark if you leave
the boat breaker on and there is a load present. Best practice is to shut both off when making the connection. I don't always practice what I preach but I will always make sure at least one breaker is off .
the boat breaker on and there is a load present. Best practice is to shut both off when making the connection. I don't always practice what I preach but I will always make sure at least one breaker is off .
Please don't anyone say they plug in their cord at the "dock end" and then go climbing around with the live "boat end" looking to plug it in. I get the wigs when I see cords disconnected from the boat, still connected, laying on the dock waiting for someone to return from sailing
John Brecher
John Brecher
Il'll go you one better! How about walking down the dock to your boat and finding the nearby slip holder has his power cord plugged in to the outlet and the 'boat' end is hanging in the water?
I went back to the main panel and flipped off hiis breaker which had not tripped!
At the end of the season Haul out I had noticeable electrolysis on a thru hull and also needed to replace the strut when 'pink' brittle metal gave way while having the cutlas bearing removed.
I asume the incidents were related as another slipholder had similar electrolysis issues.
I went back to the main panel and flipped off hiis breaker which had not tripped!
At the end of the season Haul out I had noticeable electrolysis on a thru hull and also needed to replace the strut when 'pink' brittle metal gave way while having the cutlas bearing removed.
I asume the incidents were related as another slipholder had similar electrolysis issues.
Re:Burnt Power Plug
I had same problem on '01 410. Problem was caught before burning out socket post. Problem was created from having too much wire insulation removed from wire on back side of plug. 1/2" of wire was exposed and completely oxidized. Luckily I had enough wire to work with and trimmed back wire and reconnected. Connection has been working fine ever since; eliminated per cord plug burning from overheated post.
I had same problem on '01 410. Problem was caught before burning out socket post. Problem was created from having too much wire insulation removed from wire on back side of plug. 1/2" of wire was exposed and completely oxidized. Luckily I had enough wire to work with and trimmed back wire and reconnected. Connection has been working fine ever since; eliminated per cord plug burning from overheated post.
There are several answers to this question. Some have been touched on already. But two that have not are 1. Reverse Polarity and 2. Corrosion at the spade clips of the shore power cords.
Reverse polarity will in fact cause an over load and that will overheat the connections. Simple solution is to get a polarity cube, any ACE Hardware, that you keep plugged in to a 110 V outlet in the boat and every time you get on the boat look at it. It is simple to use. It has three lights and it has instructions on the cube. Two amber and one red. The order that the lights are lit indicate if there is a problem and if so which wires are crossed or reversed. A repair in the marina while you were away from the boat can cause a problem on a shore power out let you have used for years. Simple and easy to use and makes checking at new marinas as you travel easy.
Corrosion is also a problem. There are several things that can cause the corrosion. Loose connections, as in worn connectors, and moisture. Imagine that, moisture in a salt water environment, who'd thunk? It is easier to fix than one may expect. Always use the connecting rings supplied with the shore power cords and make sure they are tight or at least snug. But before putting them together use a Dielectric Grease. It can be bought at Radio Shack for a couple of bucks a tube. Smear it on the spade pins and force a little down the female holes as well. The spade pins will make contact through the grease but the grease will keep out any water intrusion or moisture which is most important. I have been using the same two 25' cords for my shore power for 7 years +, 365, 24-7 and have not had any problems.
Hope this helps.
Reverse polarity will in fact cause an over load and that will overheat the connections. Simple solution is to get a polarity cube, any ACE Hardware, that you keep plugged in to a 110 V outlet in the boat and every time you get on the boat look at it. It is simple to use. It has three lights and it has instructions on the cube. Two amber and one red. The order that the lights are lit indicate if there is a problem and if so which wires are crossed or reversed. A repair in the marina while you were away from the boat can cause a problem on a shore power out let you have used for years. Simple and easy to use and makes checking at new marinas as you travel easy.
Corrosion is also a problem. There are several things that can cause the corrosion. Loose connections, as in worn connectors, and moisture. Imagine that, moisture in a salt water environment, who'd thunk? It is easier to fix than one may expect. Always use the connecting rings supplied with the shore power cords and make sure they are tight or at least snug. But before putting them together use a Dielectric Grease. It can be bought at Radio Shack for a couple of bucks a tube. Smear it on the spade pins and force a little down the female holes as well. The spade pins will make contact through the grease but the grease will keep out any water intrusion or moisture which is most important. I have been using the same two 25' cords for my shore power for 7 years +, 365, 24-7 and have not had any problems.
Hope this helps.
Hi all
Just an update.
I replaced all of the "Guts" of the inlet. That was a $50 investment. The power cord is burnt but still seems to work without getting hot. I will replace the end of the cord ASAP, however they want $70 for just the female end of the cord here in the Bahamas ........ so it will have to wait until we get back to US.
Thanks to all for help.
Andrew
www.svtallyho.com
Just an update.
I replaced all of the "Guts" of the inlet. That was a $50 investment. The power cord is burnt but still seems to work without getting hot. I will replace the end of the cord ASAP, however they want $70 for just the female end of the cord here in the Bahamas ........ so it will have to wait until we get back to US.
Thanks to all for help.
Andrew
www.svtallyho.com
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