Burners won't light

[rochellemallen]

I have a LPG stove set up with a solenoid valve. My stove burners have stopped lighting. It started with me having to leave them in the light position for a few minutes before they would light, now they will not light at all. Does anyone have experience with this.

 

[Ross]

First be sure you have gas in the tank. Then be sure the solenoid valve is opening. Then listen for the sound of gas flow. For reasons that I don't understand my burners need purging before the first lighting in the spring. After that they are fine.

 

[RAD]

I concur with Ross, every spring I have to open all the burners for few seconds then keep a match on one burner till it lights also a while back there was a post about the solenoid valve failng on these systems

 

[Andy1237]

The solenoid valves are prone to sticking in the closed position.

 

[RichH]

I have a LPG stove set up with a solenoid valve. My stove burners have stopped lighting. It started with me having to leave them in the light position for a few minutes before they would light, now they will not light at all. Does anyone have experience with this.

If you mean that the burners INSIDE the oven wont light ... then I offer the following remedy.

The safety solenoid valves are controlled by a thermocouple that is located 'just above' the pilot light for the stove burner(s). The thermocouple senses that the pilot is lit and if lit the thermocouple sends a signal to the safety solenoid valve to open. Usually after long term and repeated usage, the thermocouple (sitting directly above the pilot light) develops a glaze from the impurities in the LPG; the glaze is insulative. Sand down the surface of the thermocouple with 220-320 grit sandpaper to remove the glaze. Then, once you remove your thumb/finger from the 'lighting button', the pilot flame will/should stay on. 99% of the time cleaning/sanding of the thermocouple will correct any 'lighting problems' with stove burners.

 

[sailingdog]

A lot of the stoves have a safety device to close off the gas if the burner goes out. If you don't hold the lighter to the burner for at least five seconds or so, it won't heat up enough to keep the gas feed open...and won't stay lit.

 

[Benny]

Solenoid valves are designed to default to a closed position upon loss of power or electrical failure. Like Ross says make sure you have LPG on the tank. Engage the batteries, flip the appropiate breaker at the panel and the switch at the galley and turn the stove valves pushing in if you have thermocouples and like sailingdog suggests hold a lighter to to the burner. If you still get no ignition check for power at the solenoid and check the solenoid for an elevated temperature. If it is to hot to the touch it is gone or about ready to and should be replaced. For systems testing purposes the solenoid valve can be bypassed. The valve is just a remote switch to be able to cut gas off from the galley in case of a flare up or emergency. You can accomplish the same by having a crew member sitting by the tank ready to turn off the main valve at your verbal command.

 

[tsmwebb]

When you say that you keep the burners in the "light" position does that mean the piezo is on (clicking) or that the thermocouple is disabled? If you're trying to get the burners to light with the built in piezo then I'd suggest using a match or barbecue lighter instead. On my Force 10 the piezo stopped working very early on. But, I'm content to light it with a lighter.

If, however, you are bypassing the thermocouple (done by pressing the dials in on my stove) and you can't light the burner with a match your problem is gas supply. If you bypass the thermocouple and the burner can be lit with a match but goes out when you let go of the bypass then the thermocouple needs cleaning.

--Tom.