I could use some words on replacing my bunks ... best wood - sealing it - bending it - covering - etc. They are 2x6x10'7" Thanks rl
see images - bunk bed on the range
see images - bunk bed on the range
Bunks - for my Cat 22 to sit on - trail rite trailor
- Thread starter Sailor boy
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Man, that sure is an awful nice place you live. Anyway, whatever you do, it'll be better than what's there. I'm going to redo mine directly, with everyday treated 2X6 lumber. And cover it with indoor/outdoor carpet stapled on the backside.
Should last at least two years, by then, the wolmanizing ,(sic?), should be dried out, and then I'll paint it.
I'd be interested to hear what others have to say about this though..
Should last at least two years, by then, the wolmanizing ,(sic?), should be dried out, and then I'll paint it.
I'd be interested to hear what others have to say about this though..
I've used PT lumber like Chris says and that was what was standard on the 2 new trailers I've had. The last one was a pontoon trailer with plastic covers on the bunks kinda like http://www.rockettrailers.com/pdf/Modual-Bunk-Glide-Ons.pdf
which helped to reduce corrosion on the aluminum logs as carpet traps salt and the logs don't like salt. Another benefit was they allowed the boat to be winched on pretty easily as they were a lot slippery-er that carpet which could be a benefit for your sailboat.
which helped to reduce corrosion on the aluminum logs as carpet traps salt and the logs don't like salt. Another benefit was they allowed the boat to be winched on pretty easily as they were a lot slippery-er that carpet which could be a benefit for your sailboat.
PT
I used PT on both my trailers bought outdoor carpet from Lowe's. But any carpet store will have it. You can also sweet talk them into cutting it to weight for each bunk.... A yard is way cheaper than buying it already cut anywhere else.
I've never painted them.... First one is still solid after 10 years second is five years. I bought monel staples they will never rust. Stainless will rust inside the boards after a couple of years.
I started in the middle then bent each end up in place.
I used PT on both my trailers bought outdoor carpet from Lowe's. But any carpet store will have it. You can also sweet talk them into cutting it to weight for each bunk.... A yard is way cheaper than buying it already cut anywhere else.
I've never painted them.... First one is still solid after 10 years second is five years. I bought monel staples they will never rust. Stainless will rust inside the boards after a couple of years.
I started in the middle then bent each end up in place.
I discovered when I redid mine last summer that there is no need to pre-bend the bunks. A pressure treated 2 x 4 will bend just fine when the weight of the boat is put on it. I had the boat jacked up on the trailer and supported by beams. I used brackets to attach the bunks that did not required through-drilled bolts, just lag screws from underneath. I set the height of the front and rear bunk supports using an angle gauge and a tape measure, then mounted the front bracket of each bunk to its support. I let the boat down carefully while allowing the bunks to bend without sliding left or right on the rear supports. Once the boat weight was fully down on the bunks, I screwed the rear brackets in place. Finally, I set the height of the middle bracket up against the now bent bunks, and screwed in their mounting brackets. This method guarantees that the shape of the bunks will conform perfectly to the hull shape.
The old bunks were rotted on the top under the carpet because the weight of the boat made it difficult for that area to dry after the boat was loaded. They also rotted where holes were drilled for through bolts that attached the mounting brackets. So on the new ones, I primed and painted the top, left and right sides of the bunk wood to minimize water soaking into the 2 x 4 from the wet carpet, and I left the bottom unpainted to allow a path for water to dry out of the wood. I also used lag screws into the bottom to attach the mount brackets as mentioned above. Home Depot had 12' rolls of outdoor carpet off of which they cheerfully cut two 12" slices for me that cost only a few bucks.
The old bunks were rotted on the top under the carpet because the weight of the boat made it difficult for that area to dry after the boat was loaded. They also rotted where holes were drilled for through bolts that attached the mounting brackets. So on the new ones, I primed and painted the top, left and right sides of the bunk wood to minimize water soaking into the 2 x 4 from the wet carpet, and I left the bottom unpainted to allow a path for water to dry out of the wood. I also used lag screws into the bottom to attach the mount brackets as mentioned above. Home Depot had 12' rolls of outdoor carpet off of which they cheerfully cut two 12" slices for me that cost only a few bucks.
I have P/T 2X6s. I'd say that fresh ones that are somewhat uncured will bend easier but I'd also suggest going to a place where you can select your own boards. You don't want many big knots as the wood there is weaker to being bent. The P/O used a staple gun for the carpeting. I removed the staples or hammered them in deep and added a line of roofing nails that are set into the sides of the boards. Any nails or staples on the surface of the bunks could gouge the hull.
If U read my post about trailers I recounted my story of when one of my worn bunk boards cracked when trying to load my C 25. I can't recommend it enough to replace the bunk boards asap before they fail. If they crack going down the road the boat will fall off the trailer & create a real disaster. I was lucky that I caught mine during loading while still in the water. Also check the brackets that hold the bunks to the trailer, & the wheel bearings & axle for rust corrosion. I've heard a lot of horror stories from friends with boat trailer mishaps. Another area to watch out for is rusted trailer brakes. They can overheat, lock up & cause a crash. Bad trailer brakes are worse then none at all.
I thank all of you for your info .... I should be able to get the wood tomorrow and get started replacing the bunks .... I'll take some photos of the progress
By the way, the new non-toxic chemicals used to pressure treat wood are corrosive. Plan on using galvanized or stainless steel fasteners or monel ($$$) staples anywhere fasteners will sink into the wood.
I totally agree with U on that one. I inspect buildings for a living, and I can tell you that the new copper dipped wood used on decks corrodes standard hot dipped galvanized fasteners in no time. I've inspected decks that were only 3 to 4 years old on CCA wood & found the nail heads at the decking boards & lag bolts securing the rim joist connections were completely rusted away. There are going to be a LOT of deck failures in the future. That's why I like patios. They don't collapse & kill people. I wish that more sailboat trailers used roller systems instead of bunks that are less reliable.
My lumber yard had some real nice redwood 2x6x12... I decided to use it for my new bunks. They went on the braces real easy. My wife Hanne needed to sit on the center of the bunk to get the bolt started. They curved just right. I replaced new line for my trailer winch... and cut up the old bunks for firewood next winter. I think I can oil the redwood then put the new carpet on ..... Thanks for all your help.
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Don't burn the pressure treated wood for firewood! The chemicals used to treat it are likely a health hazard, especially if its treated with one of the arsenic-based chemistry's used up until about 2005. You want to use a dust mask when cutting up old stuff made from PT, old fences, decks, etc.
For "jrowan:" do I understand you to say that even hot dipped galvanized hardware will corrode in CCA wood? I was under the impression it was OK. Would like to know. Thanks!
For "jrowan:" do I understand you to say that even hot dipped galvanized hardware will corrode in CCA wood? I was under the impression it was OK. Would like to know. Thanks!
Triple that comment about the chems in the presure treated lumber. Normal galvanized products will deteriorate very quickly. Z-maxx product is safe for the new PT lumber. Just ask at your favorite lumber yard. All contractors have to use the z-maxx hangers and nails now, many porches and decks have collapsed in the last 5 years because the weren't built with the right fasterners.
Paul
I'm not sure that Simpson Z-max is any different than any other hot-dipped galvanized hardware. See this link: http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/zmax.html
This is a good article regarding the requirements:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...p4y0Ag&usg=AFQjCNFaWAlmT7ydjZaYksBwc7qP-89vyw
So I think you are correct in the assumption about Hot Dipped Galvanizing being acceptable, however, electro plated galvanizing is not okay.
Paul
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...p4y0Ag&usg=AFQjCNFaWAlmT7ydjZaYksBwc7qP-89vyw
So I think you are correct in the assumption about Hot Dipped Galvanizing being acceptable, however, electro plated galvanizing is not okay.
Paul
Hello,
Has anyone covered or placed white vinyl fascia board instead of carpet over the bunks.
Here is the link to the product I had in mind.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=6437-271-36587101&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1095437&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
Wondering if this will reduce friction when loading unloading.
I wonder if the vinyl will crack overtime with the abuse weight etc.
There is also PVC board that could be attached on top of the wood bunks!
Any inputs?
Has anyone covered or placed white vinyl fascia board instead of carpet over the bunks.
Here is the link to the product I had in mind.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=6437-271-36587101&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1095437&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
Wondering if this will reduce friction when loading unloading.
I wonder if the vinyl will crack overtime with the abuse weight etc.
There is also PVC board that could be attached on top of the wood bunks!
Any inputs?
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