Bulkhead replacement

agprice22 · Feb 16, 2013

You should see if you can buy the veneer. There are many types of wood available, and it's easy to work.

Andrew

Old Skool Neil · Feb 19, 2013

Have you measured the width of the existing bulkhead? I think it's a little wider than 48". If my failing memory is correct you're looking at scarfing a piece on the outboard edge.

BillyK · Feb 23, 2013

Old Skool Neil said:
Have you measured the width of the existing bulkhead? I think it's a little wider than 48". If my failing memory is correct you're looking at scarfing a piece on the outboard edge.

I replaced my bulkhead last winter. It's wider than 48". I had to splice a additional 4-6" on the short end. I did go with teak veneer I purchased on amazon on both sides of some homedepot ply. They use water proof glue on this one type of ply they stock and costs so much less than marine ply. Removing and reinstalling is a pretty difficult task since the compression post has a groove for the bulkhead to sit in and a really good portion of it is inside/outside bent around the seat for the main salon and next to the head. It a full day of work to pull and put the replacement back in. No matter how well you template the new bulkhead, there will need to be adjustments made that you'll discover upon installation. So bring a chisel and a good rasp as well as a belt sander.

Total cost if I remember was about $250 with everything. It was a tremendous effort though.

BillyK · Feb 23, 2013

jamesstpierremb said:
Thank you, Andrew, veneer may still be an option. Meanwhile I think I'll remove the bulkhead bottom screws, salon side.. top screws Head side, take out chainplate nuts and screws as well as bathroom counter bolts. . The side trim piece on the mast post when removed should allow the bulkhead to be worried out of there. I,ll trace it onto a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch (really only 5/8) veneer both sides plywood and cut out the new one.. I'll let you know how it goes in March.. Jim

I don't think it's 3/4.. I seem to remember it being 1/2" which turns into 5/8 with teak veneer on both sides... I have my old bulkhead in the garage so I can check it tomorrow if you want.

BillyK · Feb 24, 2013

BillyK said:
I don't think it's 3/4.. I seem to remember it being 1/2" which turns into 5/8 with teak veneer on both sides... I have my old bulkhead in the garage so I can check it tomorrow if you want.

Just measured it. It's 5/8" with the veneer applied. So it's 1/2" ply. At least on my 1990 Catalina it is.

jrowan · Mar 6, 2013

Just a thought, why not just build bigger S.S. blocks to hold down & secure the chain plate attachments on a wider & longer plate of steel to disperse the load onto the bulkhead. It would strengthen them by giving the chain plate attachment a larger surface area to disperse the load, thereby increasing its strength & load bearing ability.
That is, if the bulkhead is not completely rotted out. If the teak veneer is just delaminating, but the core plywood is still structurally sound, why not just apply new contact cement to the veneer & try to glue it back down? A steel plate is a lot cheaper & easier then a bulkhead replacement. Contact cement only cost 5 bucks, so it doesn't cost much try try & repair what you have. My 2 c.

agprice22 · Mar 6, 2013

Adding on the in-place repair idea: you can use a heat gun to remove veneer if you can't glue it back down. Then, you could apply iron-on, glue-backed veneer to replace the old. Be sure to seal it well as I doubt the glue will hold in a damp environment.

Andrew

BillyK · Mar 6, 2013

jamesstpierremb said:
Thank You, Neil and Billy K.
I,ve located manufacturers who do 4 ' 6 " wide, but don't like selling single sheets to private parties. "not as smart as I think I am! I'll search a bit further..

It really isn't hard to butt the veneer up to itself to extend it. With the grain you can't even see where the seam is.. And even if you could its pretty much out of sight behind the cabinetry.

agprice22 · Mar 7, 2013

To seam the veneer, put one sheet down, and overlap the next sheet to the first by 1/2 inch. Don't glue down the overlap on either sheet. Trim the overlap so that you cut through both sheets, forming a new seam that interfaces both sheets. Now heat them to seal them down. It will result in a gapless seam.

Andrew

agprice22 · Mar 7, 2013

Oh, you can youtube or google veneering and see demonstrations of it. It works. Trying to butt them is less likely to look good, but it can work sometimes.

Andrew

BeachGuy · Feb 2, 2018

James, thanks for posting the photo's was very helpful.

Jeff
1980 Cat 30 #1620