Bulkhead replacement

[drumbeater]

We are tackling this project during the winter. We cut the port side in half horizontally to get it out. We are doing the same with the starboard side.
I've only seen a few posts on this project but no real specific plan or details about putting them back in. I can take some pictures as I go but sure would like to hear others experience with the H22.

 

[Bill Roosa]

Nothing spurs adaptability like the lack of planning.
Experience is something you don't get untill just after you need it most.
and
Sometimes too much to drink is not enough.

I'm courious to understand how you expect to get the new bulkheads in when you had to cut the old ones in half to get them out. do they come in pieces?

 

[Nodak7]

Nothing spurs adaptability like the lack of planning.
Experience is something you don't get untill just after you need it most.
and
Sometimes too much to drink is not enough.

I'm courious to understand how you expect to get the new bulkheads in when you had to cut the old ones in half to get them out. do they come in pieces?

Bill, maybe it is one of those "accordion" bulkheads!

This project certainly sounds interesting and I look forward to seeing the pictures.

 

[drumbeater]

I was looking for advice not philosophy.

Anyway I was going to make two pieces and use screws/epoxy to put them back together unless there was a better idea here.

John

 

[Bill Roosa]

Sorry drumbeater I could not resist
Going to make an assumption that the bulkhead was held in place with some sort of built up fiberglass "channel" on both the hull and deck. Sometimes called tabbing I think.
If that is the case then I believe the "officially approved solution" is to remove 1/2 (probably the aft side)of the tabbing, install a full size bulkhead then build the tabbing back.
Alternately you could do as you are suggesting. If the bulkhead is wood then you could fashion two pieces, install them and glass over the entire thing then gelcoat it. Not sure what kind of "look" you are going for though. If you wanted to keep the wood look I'm not sure how to do that and not have "this was clearly two pieces of wood that somebody put together...." look. Perhaps you could but the two together with a two groves and central tongue to connect them.
My concern with the two piece solution is transmitting the loads across the gap. I believe that bulkhead is intended to keep the hull and deck from deforming when the mast and keel work against each other (almost all the time). That would mean the gap will be seeing a shearing stress along the gap. If you make the tongue wide enough it should be able to carry the load all by itself without glassing over the wood surface. Then a simple wood trim would cover the seam.
a picture would be most helpful.

 

[inarathree]

Drumbeater, not sure exactly what you are trying to accomplish, but are you trying to do something like this?

http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/components/com_mtree/img/listings/m/5457.jpg

I found it in the owner mods section of this sight. While it does open the cabin up, I agree with Bill. The one and only bulkhead, does help keep hull and deck shape and provides mast support.

 

[drumbeater]

That's ok Bill. I appreciated the satire I was just kidding.
Inathree that's exactly what we are doing.

 

[Merlin Clark]

I patched holes in a bulkhead and the sole on my last boat by cutting both the original and patch in kind of a "ship lap". This gives the epoxy more area to work with.
Use a router and straight bit to get the lap. I use thickened West epoxy and overload the joint to make sure there are no air gaps.

 

[Ed Schenck]

This project exists in one of the Hunter Mods, not necessarily for the H22. I'm on a tablet or I would go searching. I do not get along with touch keyboards. Wish I could remember his fix. But Merlin's is a good idea.

 

[drumbeater]

Merlin I like that idea! I remember from a test I did in engineering school. We figured out that wood glued together was actually stronger than the wood itself. I don't know how that would apply to plywood in compression. But I'm pretty sure it would be strong enough.

 

[Secondwind2008]

Bulkhead replacement and more

We are tackling this project during the winter. We cut the port side in half horizontally to get it out. We are doing the same with the starboard side.
I've only seen a few posts on this project but no real specific plan or details about putting them back in. I can take some pictures as I go but sure would like to hear others experience with the H22.

I rebuilt virtually everything on my H22 and when I say everything I mean everything. All wood interior & exterior except table & center post. All electrical wiring and then some, all canvas (Sunbrella) sewn by me including a Bimini & sail cover, hatch cover tiller cover, all cushions/upholstery including foam. There was nothing but the hull, mast and some rigging when I got this boat so I know this boat much more than I should.
The bulkheads are not that bad to replace but it does take patience. Mine were reduced to mush as the interior was filled with fetid water up to the top of the sink and was greeted by a few frogs when I looked in. I made first a cardboard pattern for the bulkhead then a 1/4 plywood pattern which i fine tuned by tuck & fit several times until it fit. It does not have to fit tight as it will be impossible to get it in otherwise. I had to nudge the center post a little bit too but is just wedged in and not fastened so no big deal to move. This replacement also will expose the mast wiring and ground wire so if you're planning to add or replace any wiring to/from mast then now is the time. Feel free to ask me anything as there's not much I haven;t done to this boat.
Lastly, you need to ignore the ones here that can't resist adding worthless comments or give their unqualified and often unwanted opinions.They obviously have no life and troll these forums for reasons still unknown to me. I say this because i got many of the same worthless and apparently insulting remarks when I was desperately trying to rebuild this boat years ago without having a clue what was even in this boat originally. Often responders to my questions did not own my boat and were just offering a guess which was not of any use. I do however, thank the few here that were helpful but honestly I gave up on this forum years ago because of the others. Again ask away as I know I can help you.
Here's a link to some pictures of my H22:http://gallery.me.com/bathroomspecialties#100489&view=carouseljs&sel=0

Pete

 

[drumbeater]

Thanks for the offer Pete. So did you glue two 1/4" bulkheads together, or just used the 1/4" piece to make a template? My bulkhead are 1/2" thick.

 

[Secondwind2008]

Thanks for the offer Pete. So did you glue two 1/4" bulkheads together, or just used the 1/4" piece to make a template? My bulkhead are 1/2" thick.

Sorry I forgot to mention I used the 1/4" solely for tuck & fit template and 1/2" plywood for the bulkhead. BTW, if you want to save a load of money you need not use a teak plywood. Just a good AC grade finished plywood and chose the grain you like then stain to your liking.

Pete

 

[charlieyacht]

The pros make patterns from 1/8" door skin ripped into 4" strips (maybe you could use strips or stiff cardboard). With a block plane, sander, whatever you make a pattern by clamping the first piece then shaping the next piece which is stapled, glued or screwed to the first piece then so on until you get to the beginning piece. This is an easy way to make an outline and can be made exactly like the original part. Lay your outline on the bulkhead material, trace and cut and voila an exact fit bulkhead. Tough to make a piece of inexpensive plywood look like teak no matter what stains and varnish you use. Inexpensive Formica would be better. Like a friend once said, you want something nice or is this for you? Unless you work for free the labor is worth the investment in good materials.

 

[drumbeater]

Taking them out was easy enough. They were not falling apart so I can use the old one's for templates.

 

[drumbeater]

Here are the new bulkheads. I used the old ones as a template. Just pushed the two halves together and traced the outline. Not too scientific.
Notice the bevel on the side to match the hull. I expect that this will have to be shaped to fit. It was not a constant angle on the old pieces.
I'm finishing them with Formbys Tung Oil Varnish.

 

[drumbeater]

We got them in with alot of trimming, beating with blocks of wood and rubber mallets, and some cussing. Looks better than rotted. Tight fit for sure. Port side was easy.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Drumbeater;

Nice job.

crazy dave

 

[Erieau]

Those new bulkheads look like a million bucks, Drumbeater. What kind of ply did you end up using?
I had to beat the crap out of my new bulkheads to get them in, as well as twist, contort, cajole, and bend them. The originals were in tight, so I figured the new ones should be, too.
I imagine you're going to pay extra attention (as I do now) to fully caulking the chainplates and regularly inspecting the seal. This isn't a job you want to do twice, eh?

Joe

 

[SeaTR]

Hear here !!

HA ! Drumbeater, you're working on my NEXT project (after this upcoming season is over)... my starboard bulkhead is original and has had many a day of POs allowing its leaking chain plate to slowly turn it into a sponge.

My replacement wood of choice will be 1/2" laminated Ipe. This stuff is normally used for decking, and is a VERY dense wood from S. America. I like it because of its rot resistance, strength, and color/grain (which is pretty darn close to teak). I'm not too concerned with the weight, and it IS heavy...I just replaced the salon bilge boards with laminated strips of it and maple replacing the much worn out original teak and holly ply. Pictures coming as soon as I locate them.

Secondwind2008, I applaud your comments on the "less than helpful commenters" !! These forums are for constructive interaction, not to 'pass hot air' a/o snide remarks. Keep plugging away and don’t give up on this forum…It looks like you have experienced what I have and more. "Eh?"

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