Hi All, I am considering replacing the starboard bulkhead on my '83 O25. Chain plate leakage has rotted it out. My question is, is the bulkhead glassed to the hull on BOTH sides or just the forward side. I can see the glass tape on the forward side above and below the sink, but to see the aft side I need to pull off the cloth liner and remove the backrest. So, I am trying to decide if I will try to repair the wood with something like Git Rot or CPES, or just go all the way and replace the whole thing for the piece of mind. I don't want to pull off the liner just to see if it is glassed or not. If it is glassed, then I will lean towards repairing. If it is not, then I will lean towards replacing. Anybody know ? And, if anyone has done this (repair or replace), I would appreciate any tips and/or admonishments ! TIA !
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Bulkhead
Ed, I replaced the same bulkhead on my 83 the winter before last. The bulkhead is glassed on both sides and the cloth can be pulled away then glued back without harm. Try to get a copy of "This old boat" by Don Casey. I used his method and found it an easy replacement. Look for screws holding the bulkhead to the hull liner near the bottom and cut the tabbing holding it to the hull sides with a dremmel tool or something similar. Git Rot is ok if the damage is cosmetic but dosn't work well if its holding the chain plates in place. Be glad to answer any other questions.....Ron
Ed, I replaced the same bulkhead on my 83 the winter before last. The bulkhead is glassed on both sides and the cloth can be pulled away then glued back without harm. Try to get a copy of "This old boat" by Don Casey. I used his method and found it an easy replacement. Look for screws holding the bulkhead to the hull liner near the bottom and cut the tabbing holding it to the hull sides with a dremmel tool or something similar. Git Rot is ok if the damage is cosmetic but dosn't work well if its holding the chain plates in place. Be glad to answer any other questions.....Ron
Longer Chain Plates
I had the same problem on my 26, but the rot was not too bad. I just added (extended) some stainless straps to the existing so that I could re-attach to good wood. Sealed the leak and it seems to be working ok.
I had the same problem on my 26, but the rot was not too bad. I just added (extended) some stainless straps to the existing so that I could re-attach to good wood. Sealed the leak and it seems to be working ok.
Bulkhead
Ed - Replacing the bulkhead is a chore but if you have true rot it maybe the only safe answer. As the others have said, if Gitrot or similar products are not the answer if you're going to wind up with the the chainplate embedded in the stuff. One answer may be the cut the bad section of bulkhead, insert a new piece of wood and glass in place. I don't know how I'd make it look good, though. As Ron said - you should find it glassed on both sides. Justin - O'day Onwers' Web
Ed - Replacing the bulkhead is a chore but if you have true rot it maybe the only safe answer. As the others have said, if Gitrot or similar products are not the answer if you're going to wind up with the the chainplate embedded in the stuff. One answer may be the cut the bad section of bulkhead, insert a new piece of wood and glass in place. I don't know how I'd make it look good, though. As Ron said - you should find it glassed on both sides. Justin - O'day Onwers' Web
Thanks All...Question for Ron...
Ron, Looks like I have to replace as there is rot around the chain plate bolt holes. Darn ! I assume I would have to cut the tabs and then grind them down to basically the hull surface, right ? Can you bond new resin over old ? What type of fabric and resin should I use ? How many layers of fabric ? Do I need to let each layer harden before I put on the next one ? Do I need to treat the wood before applying the glass ? Do the bulkheads "float" in their slots, so will I need to leave some clearance at the top and bottom for hull/deck flex ? Sorry for all the questions, but in case you haven't noticed I've never done fiberglass work before
I will check out Casey's book as well. Thanks so much for your help !
Ron, Looks like I have to replace as there is rot around the chain plate bolt holes. Darn ! I assume I would have to cut the tabs and then grind them down to basically the hull surface, right ? Can you bond new resin over old ? What type of fabric and resin should I use ? How many layers of fabric ? Do I need to let each layer harden before I put on the next one ? Do I need to treat the wood before applying the glass ? Do the bulkheads "float" in their slots, so will I need to leave some clearance at the top and bottom for hull/deck flex ? Sorry for all the questions, but in case you haven't noticed I've never done fiberglass work before
I will check out Casey's book as well. Thanks so much for your help !fiberglass
Ed You want to remove all the old fiberglass. This means sanding it off the hull, I would use an orbital sander with 60grit paper (I suggest an orbital sander because if your new to this you can blow thru the hull with a grinder) I would also suggest West systems 105 epoxy and 206 hardner (it's a little slower, gives you more working time)Now as far as what cloth to use, I just completed a major deck job and used a triaxial mat, this may be hard to come by, I got it from a boat yard. Basically you want a heavy fabric (try Sea-glass fiberglass mat) You also asked what prep for the wood? If you use teak, you'll need a sealer (it's oily) Plywood, you dont need a sealer, but you can pre-treat with resin and hardner. My suggestion is line up your new bulkhead, mix your epoxy & hardner, cut your fiberglass into workable pieces, coat the bulkhead and hull with epoxy, put your fiberglass on, coat the fiberglass, add another piece of fiberglass, coat with epoxy, squeege (or roll) out the airbubbles, sit back and admire the job. you did it. Just one more thing, do this early in the day, by afternoon the temp is warmer, this will cause your epoxy to "go off" to soon. I also included a helpfull link, hope this is helpfull, let us know how you make out. RichJ
Ed You want to remove all the old fiberglass. This means sanding it off the hull, I would use an orbital sander with 60grit paper (I suggest an orbital sander because if your new to this you can blow thru the hull with a grinder) I would also suggest West systems 105 epoxy and 206 hardner (it's a little slower, gives you more working time)Now as far as what cloth to use, I just completed a major deck job and used a triaxial mat, this may be hard to come by, I got it from a boat yard. Basically you want a heavy fabric (try Sea-glass fiberglass mat) You also asked what prep for the wood? If you use teak, you'll need a sealer (it's oily) Plywood, you dont need a sealer, but you can pre-treat with resin and hardner. My suggestion is line up your new bulkhead, mix your epoxy & hardner, cut your fiberglass into workable pieces, coat the bulkhead and hull with epoxy, put your fiberglass on, coat the fiberglass, add another piece of fiberglass, coat with epoxy, squeege (or roll) out the airbubbles, sit back and admire the job. you did it. Just one more thing, do this early in the day, by afternoon the temp is warmer, this will cause your epoxy to "go off" to soon. I also included a helpfull link, hope this is helpfull, let us know how you make out. RichJ
Been there, done that
I replaced the starboard bulkhead in my '84 O'Day 26 2 years ago for the same reason. As I recall, it was glass tabbed on the forward side only. I cut it out using a hacksaw blade in a straight handle (meaning the blade was held on one side only, not like a typical hacksaw blade holder. Worked fine and took only a few minutes. I used standard marine plywood instead of the $300 sheet of teak-ply. The old one is your template. It's a pain in the butt job but mine was shot and I do occasionally sail in high wind conditions so I didn't want to screw around with a patch job. DO replace the glass tab if you replace the bulkhead. The mast tabernacle is above it and the load needs proper distribution. 4" wide tape and polyester resin is pretty easy. Read up a bit if you've never used it before. Good luck!
I replaced the starboard bulkhead in my '84 O'Day 26 2 years ago for the same reason. As I recall, it was glass tabbed on the forward side only. I cut it out using a hacksaw blade in a straight handle (meaning the blade was held on one side only, not like a typical hacksaw blade holder. Worked fine and took only a few minutes. I used standard marine plywood instead of the $300 sheet of teak-ply. The old one is your template. It's a pain in the butt job but mine was shot and I do occasionally sail in high wind conditions so I didn't want to screw around with a patch job. DO replace the glass tab if you replace the bulkhead. The mast tabernacle is above it and the load needs proper distribution. 4" wide tape and polyester resin is pretty easy. Read up a bit if you've never used it before. Good luck!
Also...
If you do replace the bulkhead, use polyester resin to seal the edges of the plywood before you put it in place and be sure to fully reseal the chainplate opening in the deck when you rebolt the chainplate to the new bulkhead.
If you do replace the bulkhead, use polyester resin to seal the edges of the plywood before you put it in place and be sure to fully reseal the chainplate opening in the deck when you rebolt the chainplate to the new bulkhead.
Don't Fret
Faced the same problem with my O'25 this winter. Very straight forward. I used excessive cloth on both sides because I'm paranoid and also went with marine plywood. Total project took about 3 hrs. without stain preperation. It is originally glassed on both sides, but I cut out the old bulkhead with a jig saw and butted the new piece to the 1/2" of remaining glass and applied new glass over top. Even got a good color match on the stain.
Faced the same problem with my O'25 this winter. Very straight forward. I used excessive cloth on both sides because I'm paranoid and also went with marine plywood. Total project took about 3 hrs. without stain preperation. It is originally glassed on both sides, but I cut out the old bulkhead with a jig saw and butted the new piece to the 1/2" of remaining glass and applied new glass over top. Even got a good color match on the stain.
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