I have put the boat in the water and had the leak you spoke about. I am not certain that the leak is from sailing/motoring or just sitting still. I have not tried to tighten the keel bolts as of yet. Did tightening them help your leak? I am worried that the water is leaking in while being moored and if i don't pump it or install a float switch on the bilge pump I could have major problems. Not to metion a nasty smellng boat in the heat of the Kansas City summers. It would be possible to pull it out of the water for a couple of days and try to seal the area between the hull and keel but that would be kind of a pain. Give me your input, I would like to hear what you have to say. Jim
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leak
not sure if your 22 is like my 23 but the cockpit drain/hose/through hull arrangement sounds the same and mine did the same thing when i first launched it. i took a friend that had helped me launch it home and went back to the boat to check it and had 6" and rising under the cockpit. the hose from the drain to the through hull had a hole in the bottom where it had worn against the hull and i hadn't noticed it. the through hull is right at waterline. fortunately i had already rigged and wired a rule 1500 and had a long hose ready for just such an emergency. i dropped it in and plugged to a 12v outlet. i stuffed a plastic bag tightly in the through hull, went to the hardware store and got a cork, came back and jammed the cork in the through hull, removed the hose, and went to an auto parts store and got a section of the flexible radiator hose to match and 4 band clamps and replaced it. now, if its the keel bolts and water is just getting into the area around the bolts. my 23 did that too....all last season. it came up about 2" in the aft of the 3 "bilge" areas around the keel bolts. (again, not sure if your 22 is the same). mine stayed that way all summer. i'd drain it and it would refill but come no higher. i was, and still am baffled as to that one. i retorqued and resealed my keel bolts and keel/hull joint last winter and will see how it fairs this year. worst case: if its not the hose from the cockpit drain to the through hull, and if the water keeps rising, get it out and drying while you get the keel bolt torque specs from hunter. (55 ft/lb on my h23 w/ 1/2" keel bolts). remove and reseal the keel bolts and reseal the keel/hull joint, (i used life caulk since it is "supposed" to work under water or on wet although mine was dry it the time. I wanted something a little flexible). do the keel bolts one at a time while the keel is supported by the bunk. good luck! i sympathize. i know how it is to work hard to restore a boat and than find an annoying, potentially fatal leak! ...i learned mine wasn't fatal but still disheartening. from all the posts i've seen i don't think hunter ever built a 23, (or maybe 22 either), that doesn't leak somewhere. most are deck type leaks tho from what i read. i seem to have those too but they're getting better one by one!
not sure if your 22 is like my 23 but the cockpit drain/hose/through hull arrangement sounds the same and mine did the same thing when i first launched it. i took a friend that had helped me launch it home and went back to the boat to check it and had 6" and rising under the cockpit. the hose from the drain to the through hull had a hole in the bottom where it had worn against the hull and i hadn't noticed it. the through hull is right at waterline. fortunately i had already rigged and wired a rule 1500 and had a long hose ready for just such an emergency. i dropped it in and plugged to a 12v outlet. i stuffed a plastic bag tightly in the through hull, went to the hardware store and got a cork, came back and jammed the cork in the through hull, removed the hose, and went to an auto parts store and got a section of the flexible radiator hose to match and 4 band clamps and replaced it. now, if its the keel bolts and water is just getting into the area around the bolts. my 23 did that too....all last season. it came up about 2" in the aft of the 3 "bilge" areas around the keel bolts. (again, not sure if your 22 is the same). mine stayed that way all summer. i'd drain it and it would refill but come no higher. i was, and still am baffled as to that one. i retorqued and resealed my keel bolts and keel/hull joint last winter and will see how it fairs this year. worst case: if its not the hose from the cockpit drain to the through hull, and if the water keeps rising, get it out and drying while you get the keel bolt torque specs from hunter. (55 ft/lb on my h23 w/ 1/2" keel bolts). remove and reseal the keel bolts and reseal the keel/hull joint, (i used life caulk since it is "supposed" to work under water or on wet although mine was dry it the time. I wanted something a little flexible). do the keel bolts one at a time while the keel is supported by the bunk. good luck! i sympathize. i know how it is to work hard to restore a boat and than find an annoying, potentially fatal leak! ...i learned mine wasn't fatal but still disheartening. from all the posts i've seen i don't think hunter ever built a 23, (or maybe 22 either), that doesn't leak somewhere. most are deck type leaks tho from what i read. i seem to have those too but they're getting better one by one!
leaks
How much rain have you had? Is the water from the topside or the lake? I sail in the Chesapeake bay so I can taste the water. My keel seemed to be leaking larger amounts of water. I found out it was all comming from the sliding hatch, and rub rail. The water got trapped between the hull and the liner of the boat. It came gushing out of the weep holes. Good luck.
How much rain have you had? Is the water from the topside or the lake? I sail in the Chesapeake bay so I can taste the water. My keel seemed to be leaking larger amounts of water. I found out it was all comming from the sliding hatch, and rub rail. The water got trapped between the hull and the liner of the boat. It came gushing out of the weep holes. Good luck.
Gunwales
Don't assume leaks come up from below. As Dave suggests, they can come from anywhere. My worst leaks were solved by recaulking the rubrail, and now I'm dry as toast. It's a wonder.
Don't assume leaks come up from below. As Dave suggests, they can come from anywhere. My worst leaks were solved by recaulking the rubrail, and now I'm dry as toast. It's a wonder.
Bill
Did you remove the toerail/rubrail and completely rebed it or did you just clean and run a new bead of caulk? I think there are several of us planning the repair and would like to know the best course to take. Thanks!
Did you remove the toerail/rubrail and completely rebed it or did you just clean and run a new bead of caulk? I think there are several of us planning the repair and would like to know the best course to take. Thanks!
caulking hull deck joint
I removed the rub rail track and all. I cleaned the entire suface with spirts, then backed out all deck screws bedded them with 3m 5200 and refastened. Then I caulked the entire hull deck joint. Then I placed the rail back caulking every screw. It is amazing how many holes there are and water just weeps in. I figured do it right the first time. Good luck.
I removed the rub rail track and all. I cleaned the entire suface with spirts, then backed out all deck screws bedded them with 3m 5200 and refastened. Then I caulked the entire hull deck joint. Then I placed the rail back caulking every screw. It is amazing how many holes there are and water just weeps in. I figured do it right the first time. Good luck.
Leak Problems
Jim, my serious leaks were only while sailing or underpower. I do not take on any water while sitting in the slip. My cockpit drain connection is out of the water when sitting in a slip. The only through hulls, below the water line while sitting still, on the H22 that I know of are the sink drain and the keel bolts on a fixed keel model. I keep the sink drain valve closed all of the time. I still have some amount of leakage but I have slowed it down considerably by rebedding the hardware mounted to the transon (that will submerge while sailing) like the lower motor mount bolts and the lower gudgeon bolts. I also tightened the keel bolts. Are you taking on water while you are sitting still in a slip and it's not raining? Get the bilge very dry while sitting still and then see if water shows up in the bilge. Like I said mine stays bone dry while sitting in the slip. I take on water only while sailing or motoring and then it is only a few gallons every 4 hours.
Jim, my serious leaks were only while sailing or underpower. I do not take on any water while sitting in the slip. My cockpit drain connection is out of the water when sitting in a slip. The only through hulls, below the water line while sitting still, on the H22 that I know of are the sink drain and the keel bolts on a fixed keel model. I keep the sink drain valve closed all of the time. I still have some amount of leakage but I have slowed it down considerably by rebedding the hardware mounted to the transon (that will submerge while sailing) like the lower motor mount bolts and the lower gudgeon bolts. I also tightened the keel bolts. Are you taking on water while you are sitting still in a slip and it's not raining? Get the bilge very dry while sitting still and then see if water shows up in the bilge. Like I said mine stays bone dry while sitting in the slip. I take on water only while sailing or motoring and then it is only a few gallons every 4 hours.
Modeling clay dams/ leak detection technique
I read a recent article about identifying the source of leaks and this guy used modeling clay to build little dams in various places so he could isolate more precisely where the water is coming from. Just a thought. Not sure if you could use this everywhere, but it is one more tool to use.
I read a recent article about identifying the source of leaks and this guy used modeling clay to build little dams in various places so he could isolate more precisely where the water is coming from. Just a thought. Not sure if you could use this everywhere, but it is one more tool to use.
Tightening Keel Bolts Info
For what it's worth and for info, it's my understanding, from a SAMS surveyor that teaches seminars for other surveyors, that when the keel bolts are tightened to the specified torque that at least 60% of the weight of the keel should be supported on blocks; in other words, one shouldn't tighten the keel bolts, to the specified torque, with the boat in the water. If the nuts on the bolts are loose obviously this will be much less than the specified torque. Just for info.
For what it's worth and for info, it's my understanding, from a SAMS surveyor that teaches seminars for other surveyors, that when the keel bolts are tightened to the specified torque that at least 60% of the weight of the keel should be supported on blocks; in other words, one shouldn't tighten the keel bolts, to the specified torque, with the boat in the water. If the nuts on the bolts are loose obviously this will be much less than the specified torque. Just for info.
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